Would you consider using one of the new for "Modern Engines" SN+ oils designed specifically for GDI engines? The pricing on them isn't bad either.

I'm not sure I've seen evidence here that it's a problem for "all 1.6 ltr" GDI Soul engines. There are hundreds of thousands of them in service. I'm thinking if they all are crap this forum would have complaints a mile long.

Not minimizing your point that there has been a problem with X number of them. I just wouldn't conflate it as inevitable for the entire 1.6 fleet.

 

see attached for the dealer paperwork.

Given the history of Kia engines I would say its a possibility that these engines have a design flaw.

 

Interesting.
Oil Control Valves & Oil Pump replaced, due to intermittent operation.

 

All of those oils listed are SN-plus rated. Even Supertech conventional is SN-Plus. I did not use an inferior oil in this engine. It just went bad.

 

..... Around 30k I noticed loss of oil, about .5 to 1 quart every 1000 miles or so. I logged this data and kept track of how much oil I was using. ..... I used 5w20 conventional for the first 15k to break the engine in and then switched to 5w20 synthetic after that. I did try 5w30 after I noticed oil consumption but it didn't seem to slow down or decrease consumption. ......

Hey Duprejj, This is a massive bummer though at least the work got done under warranty. Thank you for sharing. Your post is an interesting data point.

There are some competent experienced posters on the board that enthusiastically recommend using 5W30 over 5W20. My personal take is that one should aim to solve the underlying problems rather than patch over it with heavier or specialty motor oils.

Questions:

Mostly highway or city driven?

Flat country or hills and mountains? My suspicion is that hills and mountains help. Some believe that occasional 'Italian tune-ups' help keep the engine in shape; I fall into that camp.

Did you use 'treatments' for the fuel injectors and/or intake valves, etc.?

If not, from what you have read and researched would you consider using Chevron Techron concentrated (or similar) and CRC Intake Valve cleaner (or similar) going forward?

Have you ever owned another vehicle with a GDI engine? GDI = gasoline direct injection

If so, what was your experience with that GDI engine?

 

Hey Duprejj, This is a massive bummer though at least the work got done under warranty. Thank you for sharing. Your post is an interesting data point.

There are some competent experienced posters on the board that enthusiastically recommend using 5W30 over 5W20. My personal take is that one should aim to solve the underlying problems rather than patch over it with heavier or specialty motor oils.

Questions:

Mostly highway or city driven?

Flat country or hills and mountains? My suspicion is that hills and mountains help. Some believe that occasional 'Italian tune-ups' help keep the engine in shape; I fall into that camp.

Did you use 'treatments' for the fuel injectors and/or intake valves, etc.?

If not, from what you have read and researched would you consider using Chevron Techron concentrated (or similar) and CRC Intake Valve cleaner (or similar) going forward?

Have you ever owned another vehicle with a GDI engine? GDI = gasoline direct injection

If so, what was your experience with that GDI engine?

Look up an online viscosity chart, 5w20 is only good to about 70F, after that it doesn't do it job, 5w30 is good to about 100F, I only use 5w20 in the winters. You will NOT find a single design engineer that will sign a document stating 5w20 is good in the hotter months.

 

If this is the normal, we have a problem or worse GDI or not? These are not aircraft or racing engines! Why bother trying to tweak the situation anyway?

"....about .5 to 1 quart every 1000 miles or so"

 

Like @GeoSoul mentioned, I don't think it is a problem with all 1.6 engines. Yes, it is a bummer that yours was one of the bad ones, but hopefully the rebuilt one will last longer.

Our 2013 Soul Base 1.6 Automatic ran 95K flawless miles, and only a couple of times did I need to add just a few ounces between the 5K mile oil changes. It was still running strong when we traded for our 2020 LX. And, as @westslope mentioned, the "Italian Tune Ups" we regularly gave it here in the mountains of West Virginia may have helped. We never abused it, but we didn't baby it, either. Haha! BTW - I normally used name brand synthetic 5W-20 oil and Kia Filters.

Good luck with the new engine.

 

I changed to name brand synthetic 5w30 at 2.2K. My first free oil change from the dealer was at 2k. When I found out they used a nameless, thin, conventional-blend 5w20 oil for that change, I changed it within 225 miles.

But I kept the new dealer OEM oil filter on. So something was salvaged from that free oil change.

 

ADDITIONAL MOTOR OIL RESOURCES from Valvoline
There are quite a few myths pertaining to motor oil, recycled oils and synthetic oils. In order to help set things straight, we’ve addressed and debunked a lot of the common Motor Oil Myths below.

GENERAL MOTOR OIL MYTHS

MYTH: Changing your vehicle's motor oil yourself or using a certain brand voids your manufacturer's warranty.
Changing your vehicle's motor oil yourself or using a different brand of oil from your manufacturer's factory fill will not void the warranty. As long as the motor oil being used meets the manufacturer's standards required for the vehicle (e.g., viscosity grade, type), as provided in the owner’s manual the warranty cannot be considered void.

MYTH: All oil additives are the same.
Not true. Some additives contain different formulations to affect certain parts of the engine differently than other additives.

MYTH: All brands of motor oil basically are the same.
That’s false. Base oils, additives, etc., can be different from one brand to the next.

MYTH: Switching motor oil brands is harmful to my engine.
No. Switching brands is not harmful to your engine as long as you choose an oil marked with the API donut of the same level, e.g., API SN. Motor oil manufacturers must meet minimum industry standards for performance and compatibility of the API mark. However, make sure you follow the recommendations provided in your owner's manual for viscosity and API category. You may give up enhanced performance if you switch from synthetic or high mileage to conventional oil.

MYTH: When motor oil becomes dark, that means it's time to change it.
This is not true. You cannot determine the life of motor oil by looking at its appearance since it may change color for several reasons. To ensure the best quality product, the best oil change tip is to always follow your vehicle’s owner's manual guidelines for oil change intervals.

MYTH: You don’t have to change your oil filter every time you change your oil.
Valvoline recommends changing your oil filter each and every time you change your oil. This eliminates any risk of contaminants trapped by the oil filter, such as dirt, from re-entering the oil. Consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual for your manufacturer’s recommendation.

MYTH: Bulk oil is a different (lower) quality than bottled motor oil.
Valvoline’s bulk oil is the exact same oil that is bottled and sold at retail locations.

MYTH: Oil never wears out – it only gets dirty.
False. Oil additives weaken as the engine oil is used.

MYTH: Thicker oil is better.
Thicker motor oil can be better for older engines in which engine parts have worn down over the years. However, it is recommended to always stick with the viscosity weight recommended by the manufacturer of the particular engine. The oil “thickness” (viscosity-temperature profile) is selected by the manufacturer to protect moving parts with specific design and surface roughness from excessive contact.

MYTH: The “w” stands for weight.
Actually, the “w” stands for winter, and the numbers that appear refer to the oil’s viscosity at both low and high temperatures.

MYTH: Long driving = hard driving
This is not always the case. Hard driving pertains to high and/or consistent changes of RPMs (stop-and-go driving), pulling or towing. It can also be dependent upon the geographic area where you drive.

MYTH: You cannot use motor oil in a car with manual transmission.
This depends. It’s important to follow your owner’s manual for requirements and correct fluids to use in your manual transmission.

 

MYTH: When motor oil becomes dark, that means it's time to change it.
Maybe, when it's coal black it means something? Or, when it smells different than the new oil?
Nice post!

 

MYTH: When motor oil becomes dark, that means it's time to change it.
Maybe, when it's coal black it means something? Or, when it smells different than the new oil?
Nice post!

I will continue to judge based upon time-mileage-color.

Posted a year ago -

If you want to maximize the life of your engine, consider these suggestions:

1. Use 5W30 instead of 5W20 oil

2. Use synthetic oil

3. Use TopTier fuel

4. Pull and "read" spark plugs yearly

5. Check PCV for build-up and replace by ~50K miles

6. Check oil level minimum once a month

7. Change oil at intervals not to exceed 5K miles

 

A little more Oil News on the new GF-6 standards designed for Modern GDI & Turbo Charged Engines:

Automakers are the driving force behind ILSAC GF-6, a new motor oil specification that will provide improved fuel economy and protection for modern day engines compared to prior specifications. Newer, smaller Turbocharged Direct Gasoline Injection (TDGI) engines require increased protection against Low-Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI) and timing chain wear. Ahead of the specification launching in 2020, Pennzoil has products that are expected to meet the new specification, and wants to answer your questions about ILSAC GF-6.

GF-6 will provide low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI) and timing chain wear protection while improving piston cleanliness and fuel economy.

What you need to know about ILSAC GF-6

Everything You Need to Know About GF-6 and API SP Motor Oil Standards.

 

Still waiting,

When will Chevron’s ILSAC GF-6 / API SP passenger car motor oil products be available?
Chevron will start introducing ILSAC GF-6 / API SP qualified products on June 1, 2020 with our existing Havoline® ProDS® Full Synthetic Motor Oils (SAE 0W-16, 0W-20, 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30) in large package styles. Only the current Havoline ProDS Full Synthetic formulations are robust enough to meet the more stringent ILSAC GF-6 / API SP performance testing requirements without modification.

By Q4 2020 Chevron will launch the full reformulated line of Havoline and Supreme ILSAC GF-6 / API SP motor oils, in all package styles.

 

I know what I'm getting you for Christmas this year eGak!

 

Damn! Guess i changed my oil to soon for my own good! Maybe, next time...

 

I have had two Soul 1.6 six speeds. A 2015 which I totaled and a 2016 which I drive now. The 2015 did not burn a drop. My 2016 burned a lot of oil when it was new... about 2 quarts every 4-5k miles. But now I go about 8,000 miles between changes and usually have to add 1/2 to 1 qt. Always used very light wt synthetics with both. Seems to be getting better over time. Kind of like the owner.

Cheers.

 

Is the 1.6 (not the 2.0) engine the one recalled?

 

Just tried to log and I was BANNED. (I am duprejj). Why was I banned for this thread ?

 

I also noticed one of my threads was deleted that linked some news articles about kia engine issues.

something seems fishy here!

 

I removed the ban duprejj, so you're good to go.

 

 

Had the same problem with my 2013 1.6. Unfortunately, mine was not under warranty anymore. I had taken it back several times and Kia could never find anything. I got pissed and called Kia Motors Corporate office and filed a complaint. They got with my dealer and I took my car in for the repairs. Not for free, it cost me almost $600.00. I like you, think Kia knows there is a problem but doesn't want to fix the problem. A master mechanic that I know told me that the 1.6 liter engines in the Soul has the type of injections that don't shoot the fuel far enough to clean the internal parts and junk builds up on them. That is what happened with mine. I had the repairs done and it stopped using oil and runs peppier. However, they told me to run injector cleaner in my gas every third tank so that's what I am doing. I doubt if I will get too many more miles out of my car. I'm still pissed that they couldn't find the problem before my warranty ran out.
D

 

Had the same problem with my 2013 1.6. Unfortunately, mine was not under warranty anymore. I had taken it back several times and Kia could never find anything. I got pissed and called Kia Motors Corporate office and filed a complaint. They got with my dealer and I took my car in for the repairs. Not for free, it cost me almost $600.00. I like you, think Kia knows there is a problem but doesn't want to fix the problem. A master mechanic that I know told me that the 1.6 liter engines in the Soul has the type of injections that don't shoot the fuel far enough to clean the internal parts and junk builds up on them. That is what happened with mine. I had the repairs done and it stopped using oil and runs peppier. However, they told me to run injector cleaner in my gas every third tank so that's what I am doing. I doubt if I will get too many more miles out of my car. I'm still pissed that they couldn't find the problem before my warranty ran out.
D

Not
I own a 2015 Kia Soul which is still under warranty. Car broke down while enroute. It was losing speed as I was trying to accelerate. It did pick up a little, enough to get me off a ramp then all dash lights came on and the car died. Had it towed to dealer. Waited six weeks only to be told it needs an engine and JMS extended warranty company wasn’t going to cover it due to the problem being excessive overheating. The vehicle never overheated the entire time I owned it, however, I did notice it seemed to burn oil! I’m at my wits end. I just paid the vehicle off in Jan and had an $800 service done in Feb (the recommended 80,000 service). At that time, I mentioned the oil problem and was advised to bring it back in 1,000 miles for an oil consumption test. That would’ve been at 80,724 miles. The mileage was 80,455 when the car was towed to the dealer. I drove 731 miles from the February service until the car broke down. The service dept said if the problem was contained in the head gasket they would’ve covered it. An inspector came out from the extended warranty and measured something or another and came up with excessive overheating as the result. Whatever happened to the 10 yr/100,000 mi warranty?! Let alone the extended warranty they have no problem taking your money for! During the six weeks of waiting, I had to give authorization for the service dept to tear down the engine. Which, of course, I did to get to the root of the problem. I really thought for sure it was no fault of mine. Like I said, I never had overheating issues. So now I have a bill for $638 for tearing it down and a car that is not fixed and doesn’t run. A salesman at same dealer offered to cash me out $1000 for the car, minus the fees owed. I feel taken advantage of and any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Oh, I forgot to mention...when I asked the service tech for a copy of the claim and the denial of said claim, I was told it was verbal and there was no paper trail. Go figure, never heard of a business not have documentation! TIA for any recommendations and/or input.

 

Here’s this on Oil consumption. I posted it elsewhere on this site but thought it might be helpful here too;

 

Here’s this on Oil consumption. I posted it elsewhere on this site but thought it might be helpful here too;
......

Two litres over 15,000 km strikes me as acceptable. Some of the oil consumption stories reported in this forum are not.

Enjoyable video, thank you. He sounds like an engineer or a IT nerd but he could work in international relations and/or strategic studies. He described 'blow back' to a T.

 

OK! That was funny and factual,Mate🍻 We can relax now😷

 

Yes! I know someone else that should stick to the script!

 

I have a 1.6 also and have had no issuers as of yet.I have also used GDI engine specific engine oil. I have a coworker who had this consumption issue in a Hyundai and the techs description was similar to what the thread starter posted, Issues with buildup around the piston rings. I want to think that the GDI designed oils have some additive to help battle that issue. I also use top tier fuel and cleaner on every oil change

 

In my mind I'm picturing "scrubbing bubbles."

Congrats on taking good care of your engine orange 🌟

 

If it's deposits around the rings, a piston soak couldn't hurt, might help, and would be simple to do on these engines.

1. Put a bottle of Techron in the gas tank and fill it up.
2. Park the car, let the engine cool, and pull the plugs.
3. Pour a couple of ounces of Seafoam, Techron, Gumout, or MMO into each cylinder.
4. Stick rags in the holes on the cover to keep crap from falling in.
5. Let it sit for a day, or at least overnight.
6. Use a vacuum pump to siphon out any remaining solvent from the cylinders. Much of it will have seeped into the crankcase, but remove what's left.
7. Turn the engine over a few times with the plugs removed to blow out any remaining solvent.
8. Replace the plugs, start the engine, and let it warm up to operating temperature.
9. Drive the car around the block a few times.
10. Change the oil.

This solved most oil-burning problems on the Saturn S-Series engines, which suffered from a crappy oil ring design that caused deposits around the rings. Most Saturn enthusiasts considered piston-soaking part of the maintenance routine. I can't think of a good reason why it wouldn't work with any inline engine with upright jugs.

It will do no damage as long as the total amount of solvent isn't more than eight ounces or so. Most of it will drain into the crankcase, so you don't want to overdo it. It doesn't seem to matter much which solvent is used. Any fuel system cleaner seems to work.

Another product I've been told clears up ring deposits is Cataclean, which is actually a catalytic converter cleaner. I've been told, but have not verified, that it also cleans the combustion chambers when used according to the label instructions (not as a piston soak, although it might work for that, too).

On the down side, I also know some people who say Cataclean burned holes through their exhaust system; so I have to stop short of recommending it. But I also know a lot of people who swear by it. It's powerful stuff one way or the other.

Richard

 

@NancyG: You could start by going the political route. That would be less expensive than immediately contacting a lawyer.

 

I agree. If you can't impress them with the facts, baffle them with bullshite. It may be more on their level of understanding anyways.

 

I had a quick conversation with a Kia dealership parts section employee that supports using Techron or similar prior to an oil change and GeekonTheHill's piston soaking strategy.

Ordered a PCV valve replacement. Ordered the wrong one. Was corrected two days later. Apparently, I am the first person to ask for a PCV valve at the parts desk. Nobody has ever ordered a EGR valve replacement (I asked).

I asked about all the oil consumption horror stories in the USA. The parts person mentioned that when Kias do consume oil it is always a "bottom end story".

He noted that Techron is no longer available in Canada (it is but not easily) and said that the dealership uses fuel treatment provided by Kia. I inferred that any similar fuel treatment would work.

 

I had a quick conversation with a Kia dealership parts section employee that supports using Techron or similar prior to an oil change and GeekonTheHill's piston soaking strategy.

Ordered a PCV valve replacement. Ordered the wrong one. Was corrected two days later. Apparently, I am the first person to ask for a PCV valve at the parts desk. Nobody has ever ordered a EGR valve replacement (I asked).

I asked about all the oil consumption horror stories in the USA. The parts person mentioned that when Kias do consume oil it is always a "bottom end story".

He noted that Techron is no longer available in Canada (it is but not easily) and said that the dealership uses fuel treatment provided by Kia. I inferred that any similar fuel treatment would work.

I'm a little dense, what did they mean by " bottom end story?"