I haven't replaced front struts in many a year but, damn, that is a lot of work!

 

One hour per side if you own an impact wrench. And the 4 lb mallet for the eventual rusted-in place bolt (both my lower bolts).
I have a battery operated one with 1/2" square (18V, NiCd, smaller torque) and another electrical corded, 1/2", rated for 1050 ftlb. That's a monster, doesn't fit in all places, like wheel wells.

 

DIY section?

 

Done

 

Thanks! I didn't put it in the right place originally... sorry.

 

Thanks for posting this. I replaced the strut assemblies on our 1995 Chevy Lumina APV, but I am a pianist/organist and can't afford to injure a hand. (I'm also a professional klutz!). But, I know a very honest Kia-Gold-Certified mechanic who now has his own shop. I want to keep our 2013 Soul Base running as long as possible, but after 90K miles the shocks have the ride compliance of Fred Flintstone's car on our pothole-ridden roads in WV.

Please follow up after you've had a chance to drive a while on these to let us know if they do indeed help. Like you, the only assemblies I could find were off-brand, but maybe they're OK. Let us know. Thanks!

 

For now I gut two thumbs up from my wife (it's her car, she drives it much more than me). She asked me what I did and said it is very noticeable, less bumpy and drives straighter too.
Now that she said that, I remember that one of the bolts on top of the strut tower was very lose, and that adjusts the caster and camber angles, so probably the alignment was out too. I just put new tires on front too a month ago and one tire was worn more than the other, just didn't bother at that time to check the alignment.

 

I am here with an update. The "UNITY AUTOMOTIVE 2-11933-11934-001 Front 2 Wheel Complete Strut Assembly Kit" started to make squeaking noises when turning. Sounded like is coming from their top bearing area.
I have kept the older OE struts assemblies in a shed, and for lack of anything else... I swapped them back.
Squeaking disappeared (at least in my short testing around the block). Wife will drive the car tomorrow and will see if that's indeed the case.

Sadly, I think that 3 years, with very low miles (due to COVID restrictions, probably about 10k miles), is not enough time for justify their cheap cost. Even with my own "free" labor.

 

I am here with an update. The "UNITY AUTOMOTIVE 2-11933-11934-001 Front 2 Wheel Complete Strut Assembly Kit" started to make squeaking noises when turning. Sounded like is coming from their top bearing area.
I have kept the older OE struts assemblies in a shed, and for lack of anything else... I swapped them back.
Squeaking disappeared (at least in my short testing around the block). Wife will drive the car tomorrow and will see if that's indeed the case.

Sadly, I think that 3 years, with very low miles (due to COVID restrictions), is not enough time for justify their cheap cost. Even with my own "free" labor.

I put in some cheapo TRQ struts in the 2011 and they were junk in under 10,000 miles. I replaced them with Monroe Quick Struts (but the sticker on the strut says Sachs) and so far so good with them, but the Monroe OE spectrum shocks are about gone and one is starting to weep oil after 20,000 miles. Might replace them with Sachs or KYB in the spring when it’s warmer, even though the OE Spectrums have a “lifetime” warranty.

“you get what you pay for”

 

I think that is exactly the case here, from 2019 that car was driven about 10k miles, mostly short city trips.
I had bad experience with Monroe in the past too. Sachs are the OE manufacturer, so that should be OK, that's good info.

KYB never let me down, but they don't sell a package for this car, and I was trying to save myself some work. I guess I can find the time to replace the struts and top bearing in the ones that I just took out, with KYB. I hope the Chinese springs are OK to reuse.

 

The springs should be ok. I think it’s the top mount and strut cartridge that’s the weak point on these Chinesium parts. But if you want ease, Rock Auto has Mando “quick struts” for the 1st gen…, they’re an OE manufacturer and they’re like $100 or so each. Less than the Monroe(Sachs) I got. If they were available at the time I bought the Monroe Quick Struts, I probably would have gone with Mando.

For the rear, I ended up going with the warranty on the Monroe OE Spectrum shocks. The car is getting older, and the replacement is free. I’m just trying to keep that car running and in good enough shape until the crazy car prices come back down to earth.

 

On rear I have KYB Gas-A-Just (monotubes), those are great.
I would love to get Monroe if indeed they still have Sachs tubes... but you never know.

 

Is there a specific position that the black plastic washer (#2) needs to be installed? I looked at it but there are no indicators for that washer for alignment purposes. Thanks in advance!

 

You’ll see witnesses marks where the mount was sitting. When you put the new one on, try to line it up where it was. You can move that mount all over the place when it’s loose and it will affect your alignment and it’s recommended to get an alignment afterwards.

 

Will the new washer have the same markings as the original...if that's the case then I can use that to align properly.

 

They were for the ones I used.

 

Thanks rhysoul!

 

Appreciate the visual aids and narrative...not a job I'm looking forward to, but my '11 Soul + 2.0 auto is nearing time for a suspension overhaul...very helpful, thanks muchly...

 

Well, it was a while since I did anything to my wife's Kia Soul (2011 Exclaim, but I this will be identical probably on 2nd gen too). Driving it it seemed that the front was a little "loose" and she also confirmed that is "bouncy". Since previously I just replaced the rear shocks (easy job) with KYB ones, I kind of knew that the fronts are coming, at 68k miles.

I decided to get packaged assemblies of struts (coil+shock), because it' easier for DIY. Sadly nobody well-know sells those, most of the things I saw are Chinese made. I had looked at some Sachs on Amazon ($88 just the shock) but they didn't even had two in stock at that time.
So I have decided to take a leap of faith and get some strut assemblies that looked decent to me, because they said those magic words:
"The strut comes with Factory Torqued Top Mount, Premium Bearing, Chrome Plated Strut Piston and OEM Spec Coil Spring. Integrity graded with NOK Seals, OEM Spec Spring Seal, Phosphorus Coating and Robotic TIG Welds."
At least they know what it should be made of and... their HQ is in Boynton Beach, FL

Unity Automotive 2-11933-11934-001 Complete, Spring, and Strut Mount Assembly, kit of two, for Kia Soul 2011, 2.0L engine:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT4L5U5/

For other models, the above company has an e-catalog: Unity Automotive

This is a chronological story of installation:
1. Raise the car a little, loosen the wheel nuts, raise it completely and put a jack-stand under it. Take the wheel off.
2. With a 10mm socket, remove two bolts that secure the ABS cable and one that secures the brake line.
In this pic, the two ABS bolts are off, the brake line is still on. Original shock is 2K950 - monotube non-sport tuned. I can get one like that for $180, and it's old "new" stock, manufactured in 2011. No, thank you.

3. Next is disconnection of the sway bar link. Undo the bolt (using some PB Blaster penetrating liquid). The bolt has a cut-off on the back of the strut bracket, to use a wrench to prevent the bolt from rotating when removing the nut. As always, an impact gun makes that not needed, but I used a open wrench anyway.
But, even with nut off... because the suspension is hanging down (wheel removed), there is a high pressure on that bolt from the sway bar. Need to raise back to level the control arm - I have used the floor jack till the bolt was free to leave pushed just by a finger.

4. Next are the two bolts that secure the bottom part of the strut assy. Lower the lower control arm (remove the jack used for the sway bar link). The two nuts takes a 19mm (impact gun socket) and the bolt heads 17mm (held in place by a normal wrench). Top bolt came out very easy, but the bottom required some convincing with a 4 lb mallet (put the nut back, to beat on the nut, to avoid galling the threads).

5. Next I have opened the new strut box. A yellow tape said "do not remove this bolt". But I saw another bolt below, that's the dangerous one, that is securing the spring. The top one and the plastic "washer" are to be removed.

6. Top side of the strut tower, in engine compartment. Make a note where the black plastic washer (#2 in diagram below) is located - it is part of alignment.
Take the rubber protector off and... remove the support nut. Impact gun is a must, or else you will have to hold the ax from rotating with a pair of clamps or similar (parallel notches), while using an open wrench. Yuck.

7. Fish the old strut from the wheel well, careful not to snag the ABS cable or the brake line.
Put back the parts in reverse order, starting with the nut on top (don't tighten yet fully).

8. The sway bar link will be too "high" in relation to the bracket, again move the floor jack under the LCA and adjust the height by compressing the suspension.

9. Torque everything to the torque numbers from manual. Try to install the top plastic "washer" (#2) in the same approximate position, to maintain some alignment.

10. Repeat for the other wheel. This time it will take less time

11. Drive to the nearest dealership and ask for a alignment. In my case it was $90. Some shops will offer "front alignment" for something like $60-70, but being Saturday, only the dealership could get me in on the spot.

I had kept the old strut assemblies. If those strut assemblies will not work (driving the car I think they are fine, but my wife will be the supreme judge), at least I can order later the expensive Sachs shocks and using a spring compressor (happen to have one, but they can be rented), install them on the original springs. I would have to get a new strut bearing too (#3 in the diagram above) and maybe other nick-knacks (bumper rubber #9 and dust cover #8). Dangerous job and much more expensive.

Thanks rhysoul!

he Warning Signs Of Worn Shocks And Struts

1. Instability at highway speeds. ...
2. Vehicle “tips” to one side in turns. ...
3. The front end dives more than expected during hard braking. ...
4. Rear-end squat during acceleration. ...
5. Tires bouncing excessively. ...
6. Unusual tire wear. ...
7. Leaking fluid on the exterior of shocks or struts.

 

Hate to bring up a old post but... the 4~4.5 nut that holds it all together. What is the actual torque value in FT lbs? And how do you torque it without moving?? I have a weird play in my strut/spring and it seems tight but now I'm wondering if maybe it needs more. Ideas??

 

Deleted

 

I realize this is an old post but just to be clear that top "plastic" washer does not affect the alignment in any way shape or form!

 

It does, it’s either the camber or caster or both, I forget. You can get it very close just use a marker to mark where the original was. See step #6 in the original post