I don't really notice it BUT, I think it would be cool! Drop pics when you do it! Also a guide or what you plugged into so I can copy with like neon sign or something. 🔥 🔥

 

I like it that it is subtle and uses an existing empty space. But that makes me wonder why that empty space is there? I worry it might be for a camera or sensor or something to see forward.

 

Good point. I checked the space out and nothing I can see directly behind it except for empty space of about 8" or 10" to the radiator and A/C condenser. But there is a much larger opening directly below that narrow opening plus a very large opening just above the lowest bumper fascia.

The empty space is about 1.25" x 25" .I suppose I could block that space off and see if it affects cooling by monitoring OBD coolant temperature during a hot day.
Thinking it won't because the LED and mounting strip will only be about 3/4" x 22". So still some air flow over the top and around the ends of the LED strip.

I have this on order and am working on running it at only 9 to 10VDC using a L7809CV or L7810CV TO-220 voltage regulator. I've found in automotive applications that the 13V to 15V system voltage isn't very kind to "bare" LEDs like this and they light up very bright at just 9 to 10VDC. They will draw less current, less heat and a much longer life.

 

Thinking of putting in a center mounted thin LED light bar since it has no DRL.
Plus, it might look more contemporary.

What do owner's think?

Before & After - - -

View attachment 146551 View attachment 146552

I did a led strip across my gap between the hood and body.

 

How does it look in the day time ? Pics ? Does look good .

 

I like the idea of dummy testing blocking off that hole first to make sure before committing. But assuming it doesn't goof anything up, It really looks like it belongs there. It's awesome when a modification looks factory and custom at the same time.

 

It's a personal thing, if you have a way to power it and you like it, go for it. I just run the LED headlights all the time. Multiple cars, many many miles.

 

Agree. . that is what is used on our truck and SUV.

However. . . on the +2020 Kia Soul LX with no LED headlights . . . I would have to turn the headlights on manually and also then have the rear tail lights on which I don't really want illuminated in the day time.

So just a simple LED strip in the front would work well. I plan on running it off of one of the two Aux (cigarette lighter) power outlet fuses which are not hot until ignition is on.

As soon as I get these light strips I can get to work on it. Everything shipped here currently has been delayed due to 8" to 14" rain fall in a 24 to 36 hour period last week.

 

Agree. . that is what is used on our truck and SUV.

However. . . on the +2020 Kia Soul LX with no LED headlights . . . I would have to turn the headlights on manually

Why would you have to manually turn them on? Won't they turn off automatically (in several seconds) after you shut the car off?

... and also then have the rear tail lights on which I don't really want illuminated in the day time.
....

To me having the taillights lit is a plus.

DRLs have been shown to decrease wrecks - I presume one reason being from lessening the chance an oncoming driver will pull out in front of the DRL vehicle.

Seems to me if DRLs work for the front then wouldn't illuminated taillights have a similar effect for the rear by say lessening the chance of being rear-ended.

 

I agree. 2024 S, and I leave my lights on, and that leaves the tail lights on all the time. They shut off in a few seconds.
At the same time, if you want to add an LED light bar, you be you. It's all good.

 

OK, I got a chance to work on my LED DRL mod today and just made a quick mock up with an external power pack.
So this is powered with about 9 to 10 volts. With full car battery power they would be even brighter.
That said, know that the charging system will sometimes exceed 14VDC for periods of time and then settle to about 12.6 VDC.

I am planning on operating them on about 9VDC as shown using a 3 terminal voltage regulator to assure long LED life

Here are pics with and without the DRL.

 

OK, I got a chance to work on my LED DRL mod today and just made a quick mock up with an external power pack.
So this is powered with about 9 to 10 volts. With full car battery power they would be even brighter.
That said, know that the charging system will sometimes exceed 14VDC for periods of time and then settle to about 12.6 VDC.

I am planning on operating them on about 9VDC as shown using a 3 terminal voltage regulator to assure long LED life

Here are pics with and without the DRL.

View attachment 146624 View attachment 146625 View attachment 146626

Looks good! I had never noticed that notch above the grille before you pointed it out. Now I can't unsee it and every time I see one without your mod I'll wonder why

 

Pictures at night ? Looking good .

 

Okay . . . Finally got what I needed to complete this.. . . mostly.
A lot of things going on for me this whole year, plus lately certain parts and materials that were more readily available now seem to take longer to arrive.

Here are a couple of night views . . . In short . . . this humble light "strip/bar" is Bright .
Also . . . note that as stated earlier in this thread the LED strip is powered by a controlled 9 VDC, rather than straight car electrical voltage.
There are reasons for this I can explain at another time.

Pardon the glare in the photos. My phone has good light sensitivity and there are automatic and manual tweaks to to optimize results. I still am not quite up to par on that.

So here are a couple of pics and the daytime pictures are misleading once ambient light is gone.
I'll start with a day time photo followed by a street photo and then driveway entry to my garage.
It is apparent how much light floods the pavement directly in front of the Kia.

I also have a number of photos while fine tuning the design and install. I would like to refine the final connection to the under hood fuse box, but for now it functions. I wanted to make the connection to something robust, but non critical. So went with one of the two power outlet fuses under the radio. They are not powered until the key is turned and a relay routes power to either of 20 amp mini fuses.

Tired out here for now - - - so here are the pics.

 

What is the cost for light bar? DIY vs. pro install.
Parts and labor, and time spent.

 

It looks great! What light bar is it?

 

What is the cost for light bar? DIY vs. pro install.
Parts and labor, and time spent.

It looks great! What light bar is it?

I'll post some photos of the parts I used and the install. Like many DIY projects like this, it isn't known all that might be needed till you get to the doing.
And prep work was also needed.

So some may find this a bit "too much".

The total cost worked out to a bit more than I anticipated. . . I think about $75 with the parts I used.
I also used some parts I happened to have around from previous projects.

Here is the light strip I used.
I used these because they are IP68 rated for marine under water immersion. So should stand up to rain and car washes. These strips are completely sealed in what appears to be clear silicone rubber and are flexible and complete with the often used 3M type automotive adhesive tape.
Also, they come 4 in a package so in case one does go out I have spares.

LED Light Strips IP68 Rated

L7809 9 Volt Regulator

Black Angle Vinyl Molding

UPVC Double Sided Adhesive Tape for Mounting Angle Base

I highly recommend the last item above - - Scapa S301/CLR0560 double sided tape has a thin 8.5 mils thick adhesive that I have used a number of times including applying automotive trim where thin clearances were preferred.
Alignment is key and prepare time essential, because once pieces are positioned and pressed down . . . it will be work to get it apart.
This tape has worked well since buying it in 2017 and still amazingly good.


Here are a few initial pictures of the light strip mounted on a piece of black vinyl 90* angle cabinet molding from Menard's home supply store. This strip is 1"X1" and had to be trimmed down using a sharp packing blade and straight edge to about 3/4"X3/4" for a better fit in the Kia Soul grille slot it is mounted in.

Right Click in pictures for larger size and more detail -

Feeding the wire through the front grille - -
I also used heat shrink and some extra wire to extend the length needed and added protective wire loom.

Wire fished out from upper corner of radiator, under head light housing and up to driver side fender cavity.

Here is the wiring to the Kia Fuse box and added 9 Volt Regulator. I connected to one of the under radio 2 Power Outlet Fuses. These are not powered till the Kia is powered On.

Mounting position for light strip angle bracket. Thin double sided industrial tape also shown with paper backing still on it.

This last picture may or may not be needed depending on what you want. I chose to use a common 9V 3 terminal L7809 voltage regulator. The reason is the Kia often supplies +14 Volts DC or more to the electrical system.

The LEDs used in most light strip only need 9 to 10 Volts to fully provide light output.

Using higher voltage, (like the 12.5 to 14.5 Volts the Kia Supply has) is over driving them and it will work. . . . but shorten the life span of the LEDs.

You might also get by using a 30 to 50 ohm 5 watt resistor, depending on how much brightness vs long life are content to trade off.

I modified and installed the 9 Volt L7809 3 terminal TO-220 Regulator in a repurposed B&D battery charger that was no good any more.

I used crimp on "bullet" connectors to connect the light strip and fuse box wiring to the repurposed B&D 9 Volt Regulator box.

 

Sheeeeeesh!! The pictures the guides the editing over the top with what I'm supposed to be looking for. You went all out!