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What type of oil is in your soul

  • Synthetic

    Votes: 238 57.6%
  • Semi-Synthetic

    Votes: 43 10.4%
  • Conventional

    Votes: 132 32.0%

  • Total voters
    413
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It's not snake oil, when they work!

Every oil on the market today has "ADDITIVES" in it. But to keep the cost down and compete in the marketplace, they only put in the bare minimum. If they put the very BEST additives in their oil, it would cost way more than anyone but a complete #%$&* would ever pay for it.

So I'm wondering what kind of oil YOU use, that contains NO additives. ???
 

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FL Hamster,

If you read your owners manual, which is written by those same engineers that built the car, you will see it says 5W-20 AND 5W-30 are acceptable for all temperatures, and that 10W-30 is acceptable above 0F.

Lots, and I mean lots, of owners of Hyundai/Kia cars powered by the 2L engine have reported the engine is quieter and uses less oil with a 30-weight.
 

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The 2.0L engine needs all the help it can get, and maybe a thicker oil is the answer.

My 1.6L has 5W20 printed plainly on its Oil Filler Cap and that's what I use, very successfully I might add. My little girl just purrrrrrs like a happy kitten, with never a problem of any kind, in 60K miles.

Happy Trails, Mate!

FL Hamster :cool:
 

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The 2.0L engine needs all the help it can get, and maybe a thicker oil is the answer.

My 1.6L has 5W20 printed plainly on its Oil Filler Cap and that's what I use, very successfully I might add. My little girl just purrrrrrs like a happy kitten, with never a problem of any kind, in 60K miles.

Happy Trails, Mate!

FL Hamster :cool:
My dealer always used 5w30 on my 1.6 up in the Pacific Northwest. It's one smooth quiet kitty going down the freeway. Meeeooww
 

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FL Hamster,

If you read your owners manual, which is written by those same engineers that built the car, you will see it says 5W-20 AND 5W-30 are acceptable for all temperatures, and that 10W-30 is acceptable above 0F.

Lots, and I mean lots, of owners of Hyundai/Kia cars powered by the 2L engine have reported the engine is quieter and uses less oil with a 30-weight.
I never had an oil burning issue with my 2.0. That said, all three grades are A-OK per the owner's manual, as you state. Nothing to argue about here.
 

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It's not snake oil, when they work!

Every oil on the market today has "ADDITIVES" in it. But to keep the cost down and compete in the marketplace, they only put in the bare minimum. If they put the very BEST additives in their oil, it would cost way more than anyone but a complete #%$&* would ever pay for it.

So I'm wondering what kind of oil YOU use, that contains NO additives. ???
You obviously don't know much about tribology. Snake oils DONT WORK. Adding more of an additive DOES NOT make an oil better. Companies spend millions and millions on R&D to get there blends just right, they DO NOT put in the bare minimum. If you've EVER seen real testing you'd see all the name brands and the vast majority of the off brands EXCEED minimum specifications for their respective grade.
What you back yard engineers are doing by concocting your magical snake oil potions are doing is UPSETTING the balance...key word "balance" of the blend. Using your pseudo science is like saying, 'since eggs make a cake moist, then adding more eggs would make it even moister. Nope, more eggs turns it into a gloppy mess. "Balance", X amount of flour, X amount of eggs, X amount of oil, etc.
Adding too much can be harmful, some times it does absolute nothing. Zinc and other EP additives (Extreme Pressure) are one example. Adding more doesn't mean better EP protection. That only comes into play as needed, more does absolutely nothing more (other then take up space). Pretty much any and all normally functioning engines will never use up all the EP between oil changes. Some additives in certain ratios are not compatible.

Again, NOT A SINGLE auto manufacturer recommends using any snake oil additive, NOT A SINGLE oil manufacturer recommends it either. Hmmm, wonder why? Highly educated engineers and tribologists must know a weee bit more then the Billy Jo Bob shade tree engineers.

Not a single impartial test has shown any benefit. Other then marketing hype, can you provide a shred of actual proof of your claims, Hmmmmmm?!?!?!?!?!?! Oh, no anecdotal evidence either, just real facts.
 

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I am getting ready to change the oil on my new to me 2011 Exclaim with 55k miles, just because I don't know what's in it now.
In all my cars I am running Mobil 1 synthetic, so that's what it will go in the 2.0L engine too - 5W30 Extended Performance oil with M1-104 Extended Performance filter, both from Walmart. And no, I won't keep it 15 k miles, I will replace it at 7.5k (or 6 months whichever happens first) like the manual says.

As for the 20 vs 30 debate - there no doubt that 30 is the better choice. The manual and cap had to say 20 for fuel economy, but for the engine longevity, 30 is better. That's why it is only hinted in the manual.

PS: Just open the oil filler cap when engine is idling, see how much exhaust gases blow by... that's increasing with the wear on your piston rings. As for additives those are added on all oils, but the oils are balanced for new cars. For higher mileage cars (75k miles and more) even oil manufacturers add extra additives in their oil and sell them at a premium price (see the "High Mileage" oils in any in stores).
There are a multitude of scenarios that might require additives, and lots that don't. Everyone can do an informed decision... or not.

My 5.0L V8 engine on the Explorer was stupidly run with 5W20 oil by previous owner, because that's what was on the oil cap in 2001. Well, when they designed that engine in late 60's they where requiring 20W40. Later they changed it to 10W30... until they caved to CAFE requirements and lowered it by half. Sure, the engine lasted trough the warranty, but when I bought it at 90k miles, it had horrendous oil pressure problems due to wear that was turning the red oil pressure warning light on. I could rebuild the engine or... run 10W50 oil with some additives (mainly Lucas). I am now 8 year later, at 140k miles with the same engine.

Extreme of additives that do more than the regular engine oil can be found on youtube. Search for "Certech Gel followup" - not an endorsement by any means, just an example.
 

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Huh???? What are you talking about? There is no 20 v 30 debate?
Additives in all oils are blended for all motors not just new ones. There is no special blend for "high mileage" engines, 75k aint close to high mileage the past 25 years plus. It's just marketing gimmick.

Pure BS speculation the use of 5w-20 caused any engine failure in your case.

Oh, and you also dont haven't a clue on Ford small blocks either, the Windsor family, which the 5.0 is part of was first put into the 1962 models, taking at least several years from initial design to production it's clear design started in the mid-late 1950s, NOT late '60s.
Ford never to my knowledge recommended a 20w-40, and the EPA forcing them to change to 10w-30???????????? Pure BS. How theh ell do you make up all this garbage??? Seriously!!!
 

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Good luck to you. I have other 4 cars with over 150k miles, I keep my cars at least to 200k miles and close to 20 years. None of them fail because of the engine because I know how to take care of them. You can keep using the 20 weight and sell the car in 3 years. And yes, every oil company sells "high mileage" oils, just read what Mobil 1 or Shell have to say about them. But, in your opinion, they all sell "snake oil", maybe even the oil itself is "snake" too, maybe you could use the free tap water instead?

PS: Calling names is not leading anywhere, I see that you are quick to insult everyone here, I will not reply to them.
 

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Here is my take on this entire subject: There are no certified and verified "oil" experts on this board. Some may be better informed than others on this topic but why do oil discussions always seem to degenerate into mindless arguements where name calling is the name of the game; and who is "Trump" in this and who is "Little Rocket Man"? Children, really do we need this?

As always, I seem to get to the point where we have to shut down another oil thread. Jeez, really?

Thread is closed.
 
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