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What type of oil is in your soul

  • Synthetic

    Votes: 238 57.6%
  • Semi-Synthetic

    Votes: 43 10.4%
  • Conventional

    Votes: 132 32.0%

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Changed the oil again on my 2010 2U; 2.5 months and 4k again on the change.

Oil was fine, but very dark...engine just seems to be hard on oil!

Had my work quick-lube do it with Castrol GTX 5W-30 and a Motomaster 9688 filter. Like the way 30-wt oil runs in this engine.
 

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Why won't you use the Kia Oil Filter, recommended by Kia, and even written up in a Service Bulletin, also from Kia.

NON-Kia filters just DO NOT have the filtration that the Kia filter does.



The actual bulletin from Kia has been posted on this forum Many, Many, times, so I won't re-post it here.

Castrol GTX is a High Detergent oil so naturally it will pick up all sorts of contaminants in the engine, while trying to keep it clean, but then you need the best possible filter to trap those contaminants and not just let them recirculate through the engine.

I also use Castrol GTX, but I use the grade that's printed on the oil filler cap in bright yellow letters. And that is 5W20, the recommended oil for the Soul engine.


Good Luck,
FLHamster :cool:
 

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Ok fellow hamsters, so I've had my "new" 2013 Soul for about 3 weeks now. I've only put about 700 miles, maybe less, but what I wanted to ask, without maybe starting a new thread since this is in regards to motor oil, but is it fairly easy to change the oil on these Souls? I typically do my own oil changes but haven't really looked closely at where the oil pan and drain plug is. Are they easily accessible at the bottom of the vehicle, and is that the filter that's hanging upside down toward the front bottom of the engine? I change the oil of my previous vehicles every 5000 miles, that's something I just did back when I in my fleet car days (company cars, rentals, etc.), but should I do it every 3000, and from what I'm seeing, Kia filters are recommended more than aftermarket filters? Thanks in advance.
 

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Ok fellow hamsters, so I've had my "new" 2013 Soul for about 3 weeks now. I've only put about 700 miles, maybe less, but what I wanted to ask, without maybe starting a new thread since this is in regards to motor oil, but is it fairly easy to change the oil on these Souls? I typically do my own oil changes but haven't really looked closely at where the oil pan and drain plug is. Are they easily accessible at the bottom of the vehicle, and is that the filter that's hanging upside down toward the front bottom of the engine? I change the oil of my previous vehicles every 5000 miles, that's something I just did back when I in my fleet car days (company cars, rentals, etc.), but should I do it every 3000, and from what I'm seeing, Kia filters are recommended more than aftermarket filters? Thanks in advance.
I have 2010 and 2014 soul +s and both are super easy to oil change. All the souls use the same oil filter and many squawk about using OEM filters, although using any decent brand-name filter is fine. There are several threads around with pictures showing oil/filter changes, but climb under there and it'll be obvious how easy it is...

Greg
 

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The extent to which Kia has gone, to stress the need to use only the Kia Oil Filter on the Kia Soul, is legend.

The Kia Service Bulletins concerning that have been posted in this forum more times than I care to count.
The Kia Oil Filter has a special valving inside, to control the oil pressure that reaches critical parts of the engine, like the Variable Valve Timing mechanism, which is critical for proper engine operation, and maximum engine efficiency. Even the filter material itself, is thicker & superior to what's found in most After-Market filters.

Why would any sensible person want to screw around with an inferior filter, when the Genuine Kia filter is priced to cheap?
Including a new crush washer for the drain plug, and state tax, I only pay $7 at my Kia dealership, for my filters.

On all Gen 1 Souls, (Souls made before 2014) the oil filter and drain plug are in the same place on both the 1.6L and 2.0L engines and all Kia four cylinder engines use the same oil filter. It may be different on the larger engines.

For those who for some reason, don't want to get down there and look under their Kia Soul, here's what you'll see.

If you have the 1.6L engine, this is what you'll see.



But if you have the Gen 1 Soul with the 2.0L engine, you'll see this:



Everything is in the same place, but the oil pan on the 2.0L engine is larger, so it holds more oil than the oil pan on the 1.6L engine.

If you have really strong hands, you may be able to remove the oil filter by hand. I don't claim to have hands that strong, so this is my Oil Filter removal wrench of choice.



This tool is perfect for the easy removal and replacement of the Soul's oil filter. And a 14mm socket on that 18" Torque Wrench is perfect for removing and replacing and properly torquing the Oil Drain Plug.

In this picture, I've laid out everything I'll need to do a complete Oil Change.


Since I change my oil every 3k miles, (extreme usage, as shown in the owners manual) I don't get crazy with the oil, but I use a very good quality oil, that I can easily buy at any number of local stores (even Walmart). I do watch for the Sales.
The Prolong Anti Friction Oil Additive is optional, but the Techron Fuel System cleaner is a part of fuel system maintenance suggested by Kia. The Kia Oil Filter is also strongly suggested by KIA.

My drained oil is still great for many uses around the house and shop. My neighbors also ask me for it, for their own uses.

Cheers Mates!

:cool:
 

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Grege, do not worry about using aftermarket QUALITY oil filters. Do some research, plenty info all over the webs, there are some real crappy brands/models out there (Fram cough cough). The only...ONLY advantage to using a Kia brand filter is you'll know it is NOT one of the crappy ones.
There are laws that say if a manufacture demands you ONLY use their replacement parts or fluids, where there are aftermarket products that meet the specs THEY have to provide it free of charge.

Also note, the Kia manuals explicitly say NOT to use oil additives, ALL motor oil manufacturers say explicitly NOT to use additives.
Remember that when some one preaches using only OEM parts, such as oil filters and makes such claims that the manufactures says they are the only ones compatible, when that same person goes AGAINST manufacturers (two in this case, the vehicles and the oil companies) and uses snake oil additives, and one of the worse ones out there, Prolong.
Prolong is a huge SCAM and JOKE....to any one that cares enough to know the facts. Again, info about this junk is ALL over the webs.
Briefly one reason, motors are blended with a precise and specific amount and combination of additives, play shade tree tribologist and you screw up the blend. Similar to baking a cake, you use a specific amount of eggs in the batter, they not only add flavor but moisture, throw in extras because you think you know better, you'll wind upwith a gloppy mess of crap rather then a cake.

Preach "only manufactures oil filters" then IGNORE manufacturers and use snake oil, aka...additives, is that irony or hypocrisy....?!?!?!?! <rhetorical>
 

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Hyundai dealer is nice, no comments about our nearest Kia dealer, sells, a Hyundai/Kia filter 26300 35503 for $4.50, even tosses in a new drain plug washer for free, but not sure what is wrong with the old one.

Purchased a 80mm 15 Flute P/N 06122 oil filter socket from Walmart for $5.25, old one didn't work, proper torque is 10 ft-lbs coat the seal with fresh oil.

Only use Quaker State Ultimate SAE grade SN, five quart bottle from Walmart is $19.95, is still relatively clean at 7,500 miles, but change it anyway, required to maintain the PT warranty. Save the receipts and back it up with photos of the odometer reading and date.

Pour it about 4 quarts, take if off the oil changing ramps, let it settle, than top it off to the full mark on the dipstick, always have some oil left over, save that for my small engines, use that bottle for the old oil and drop that off. Also spray all those rubber like suspension joints with silicone spray. Front and rear.
 

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Hyundai dealer is nice, no comments about our nearest Kia dealer, sells, a Hyundai/Kia filter 26300 35503 for $4.50, even tosses in a new drain plug washer for free, but not sure what is wrong with the old one.

Purchased a 80mm 15 Flute P/N 06122 oil filter socket from Walmart for $5.25, old one didn't work, proper torque is 10 ft-lbs coat the seal with fresh oil.

Only use Quaker State Ultimate SAE grade SN, five quart bottle from Walmart is $19.95, is still relatively clean at 7,500 miles, but change it anyway, required to maintain the PT warranty. Save the receipts and back it up with photos of the odometer reading and date.

Pour it about 4 quarts, take if off the oil changing ramps, let it settle, than top it off to the full mark on the dipstick, always have some oil left over, save that for my small engines, use that bottle for the old oil and drop that off. Also spray all those rubber like suspension joints with silicone spray. Front and rear.
I'd recommend going snugger than 10 ft-lbs; somewhere in the 20-30 ft-lb range is more likely (without looking it up, I remember 25-30 being specified).

Greg
 

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I'd recommend going snugger than 10 ft-lbs; somewhere in the 20-30 ft-lb range is more likely (without looking it up, I remember 25-30 being specified).

Greg
Shop manual for the filter, does have a range, 10 ft-;bs is in the center, 30 ft-lbs is correct for the drain plug.

Please do not get me started on some quick lube places, two turns loose on the filter if they replace it at all, 250 ft.-lbs on the drain plug, and where to you thing your recycled oil goes?
 

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"even tosses in a new drain plug washer for free, but not sure what is wrong with the old one."

Well, there is a good reason why they call it a "Crush" washer. Because when the drain plug is torqued to spec, that aluminum washer "Crushes" to conform to the seat on the oil pan and is not re-usable. I tried once, and had a leaker. NO MORE!
I get a FREE one with every Kia filter and always put on the new one when replacing the drain plug.

Oh, by the way, replacing the OEM drain plug with one of these is a good idea too.


NOTE: Do NOT use the plastic washer that comes with the new drain plug!

I have a note in the back of my Owners Manual...."Oil Filter Torque = 8.7 to 11.6 Ft/Lb. I just set my torque wrench to 10 Ft/Lb and that works good for the filter and the drain plug. Enough is enough!

Cheers Mates!
:cool:
 

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Thanks for clarifying my too-quick replies. Snugger is for the oil drain plug (~30 ft lbs) and not the oil filter; 10 ft. lbs for the oil filter sounds about right although I'll crank it ~ 1/2 snugger. I typically reuse the same "crush" washers again and again until they become distorted, which rarely happens.

Greg
 

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Well, if properly torqued the crush washer will be Crushed, that's why Kia suggests using a new one each time you change the oil.
It's usually FREE anyway, so why chance using a washer that's already been distorted, and winding up with a 'Leaker'. ???

I happen to know that a leaking drain plug can get really messy. It happened to me once, while I was trying to be stingy and re-use a crush washer. I'd rather not go through that again.

So my best advise, based on personal experience, for those who are considering changing their own oil, is to use a new crush washer with every oil change. Every reputable Kia dealer, should provide one with every Oil Filter. Mine does!



Cheers Mates! Y'all have a great Oil Change now, Y'hear?

:cool:
 

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Well, if properly torqued the crush washer will be Crushed, that's why Kia suggests using a new one each time you change the oil.
It's usually FREE anyway, so why chance using a washer that's already been distorted, and winding up with a 'Leaker'. ???

I happen to know that a leaking drain plug can get really messy. It happened to me once, while I was trying to be stingy and re-use a crush washer. I'd rather not go through that again.

So my best advise, based on personal experience, for those who are considering changing their own oil, is to use a new crush washer with every oil change. Every reputable Kia dealer, should provide one with every Oil Filter. Mine does!



Cheers Mates! Y'all have a great Oil Change now, Y'hear?

:cool:
If that was an actual/true crush washer, I'd agree completely. But it isn't, so it's really not a problem. Not all, but many crush washers tend to be donut shaped or domed and actually/noticeably deform. If I had a new one, sure, I'd throw it on there, but if not, no worries. For kicks, I'm pulling calipers next time to measure and compare the amount of "crush" yielded. Drum roll...

Greg
 

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If I personally knew the chick in your avatar I'd know exactly where I'd use it! LOL
You can find out more about her through Google image search. Heads up, she's not a school teacher.
 

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On the subject of a crush washer that is not actually a crush washer but a sealing washer...
I have always used a new one for each oil change but for reasons unknown to even myself, I have retained the old washer.
After looking them all over thoroughly, I came to the conclusion that they are totally reusable given one doesn't reduce them to tin foil by go-rilla tightening the drain plug.
Quite frankly, you can barely tell new from used once you view them side by side.
So far I have reused one 3 times with no leaking or weeping what so ever.
Not to be penny wise and dollar foolish, as my dear old dad would say but they definitely are reusable.
 

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I just changed my oil in this chilly 30 degree Ohio weather. Not because I wanted to, because I had to. I was overdue. Not going to tell you how many miles on this oil I went because some of you will either freak out or call me a name lol. But honestly the oil coming out was just as smooth as the oil going in.

I only use Royal Purple 5W-20. Been using it since I bought the car. The only time the car saw something else was when it was in the factory and the Koreans filled it up with conventional.

I use Royal Purple because I know it will let me slide on the oil change if I need to. This stuff is liquid gold. And by the cost of it, it better be liquid gold.

By the way.. do I need to lube anything or is that system sealed up?
 
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