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GeoSoul said: "The steering was loose as a goose but ran forever. "

I once had a car like that....very loose steering. Then a mechanic friend of mine showed me how to adjust the depth of gear mesh in the steering box, and once I did that little adjustment the steering was GREAT! Of course, I did check the ball joints and tie rod ends, which were good.
The front end is one more thing that gets very little attention till something just comes apart.
I see those quite often, sitting along side the road, with the two front wheels pointing in opposite directions! lol
I really do love the Electronic Steering in the KIA Soul. Really GREAT steering and very low maintenance.

I hope yous guys all had a very good Father's Day.

Happy Independence Day!
134099


FLH :cool:
 

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At the moment, I'm using Castrol Edge Titanium. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Valvoline Modern Engine Oil would also be excellent choices. They all have very good Noack and TEOST scores and should help reduce carbon buildup.

Richard
 

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A Supercharged Saturn Ion - how much horsepower?

I had a 1997 CRV that I installed a Jackson Racing Supercharger on. It was cool - made a nice whine and bumped my HP about 50%... from 125 HP to about 200 HP. The supercharger is to the rear of the engine - hard to see but it's there. I paid about $2500 for it back then and I also paid a mechanic $500 to help me install it. He was a Honda mechanic with a hopped up Civic hatchback. It ran pretty nice and required premium of course. I removed it when I sold the CRV and sold the JR Supercharger for about $2000 - so it was fun and no too bad on the wallet.
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At the moment, I'm using Castrol Edge Titanium. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Valvoline Modern Engine Oil would also be excellent choices. They all have very good Noack and TEOST scores and should help reduce carbon buildup.

Richard
Lets include Mobil-1 EP and Valvoline Advanced.
 

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Lets include Mobil-1 EP and Valvoline Advanced.
I haven't researched them lately, but generally speaking, most companies' top-shelf products are fine if they meet the manufacturer specs. It's hard to go wrong with M-1, though.

I haven't used the Valvoline Advanced nor looked at recent test results, so I really can't speak from experience on it.

With GDI engines, it's all about volatility and deposit-forming tendency. All the high-end synthetic oils have good lubricity, VI, detergency, and so forth. With GDI engines (and even more so T/GDI engines), however, the carbon buildup is the major concern. That's why I emphasize Noack and TEOST values for GDI and T/GDI engines. Any top-shelf oil will lubricate well, so the "best" of those oils are the ones that will contribute least to carbon buildup.

I also tend to prefer oils that meet the European ACEA standard specified by the engine manufacturer. ACEA specs tend to be more detailed and somewhat stricter than the US SAE/API specs. Of course, for warranty purposes, the oil also has to meet the standards of the owner's nation of residence; but it would be a rare thing for an oil meeting the ACEA spec not to also be certified as meeting the US SAE/API specs.

Richard
 

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I work at a Kia Dealership and if you look at the top of your air filter it states Kia Recommends Total Quartz Oil and at our dealership we use what Kia requires for their car line.....and we use 5w30 semi synthetic Total oil........
funny how mine says 5w20 and was told by our dealership the oil is full synthetic, changed every 7500 miles .
 

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Ummm... not their synblend oil. One can get full syn (name brand for less).
Not fond of their 5w20 choice either. I prefer a smidge thicker viscosity (5w30).
No CAFE requirements during my backyard oil changes.

Their OEM filter grades above average. But I can get the same approx flow and trapping rates for $2 less.
 
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