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Discussion Starter #1
I was hoping I wouldn't have any issues this soon in my new to me soul :(. I started getting these light vibrations at 59k when I come to a complete stop at a stop sign or light. It feels like if you had a wrench or screwdriver in your door pocket those kind of vibrations but from the engine area. I took it in and they can feel it also, but can't look at it until Nov 4th for some reason. I'm thinking engine mount or transmission mount. I have a 2017 . I just hope warranty covers it. Does not do this in Park, or when breaking. No vibration when reving.
 

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Some possibilities:

1. Motor / transmission mounts.

2. Badly fouled spark plug. It can cause a particularly nasty kind of low-speed pre-ignition.

3. Carbon in the intake system (the plague of GDI engines), valves, or cylinders. You can glance at the throttle body by pulling off the intake boot and using an inspection mirror. Anything else would require a borescope.

I clean the intake system every 20,000 miles as a preventative. CRC, Lucas, Seafoam, etc. all make intake cleaners that work reasonably well.

Putting a can of Techron in the gas might also be a good idea. I'm not a huge believer in additives, but that one seems to work.

4. Loose / damaged vacuum hose. This would cause rough running more than the noise you described, but it could happen if it caused something loose to clank against something else.

5. Clogged PCV valve. Kind of a long shot, but easy enough to check.

6. Bad tank of gas. Phase separation can cause detonation. It would be unusual during idle, but I've seen stranger things.

If you have a code reader, you might want to look for pending codes. Some events don't trigger a MIL unless they happen more than X number of times within Y time period. But they would show up as pending on a reader or scanner.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Some possibilities:

1. Motor / transmission mounts.

2. Badly fouled spark plug. It can cause a particularly nasty kind of low-speed pre-ignition.

3. Carbon in the intake system (the plague of GDI engines), valves, or cylinders. You can glance at the throttle body by pulling off the intake boot and using an inspection mirror. Anything else would require a borescope.

I clean the intake system every 20,000 miles as a preventative. CRC, Lucas, Seafoam, etc. all make intake cleaners that work reasonably well.

Putting a can of Techron in the gas might also be a good idea. I'm not a huge believer in additives, but that one seems to work.

4. Loose / damaged vacuum hose. This would cause rough running more than the noise you described, but it could happen if it caused something loose to clank against something else.

5. Clogged PCV valve. Kind of a long shot, but easy enough to check.

6. Bad tank of gas. Phase separation can cause detonation. It would be unusual during idle, but I've seen stranger things.

If you have a code reader, you might want to look for pending codes. Some events don't trigger a MIL unless they happen more than X number of times within Y time period. But they would show up as pending on a reader or scanner.

Richard
I used a code checker yesterday and did not get any errors or weird spikes through rpm and such. A friend told me to try a few things, It happens in reverse at stop, but if I'm in park, while holding the brake and revving it does not do it. So just gotta wait it out.

Thanks!
 

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Sounds similar to the issue my 2014 Red Zone Plus is having, but, in addition to that, I also have sluggish performance and weird shifts, like wanting to be in 5th at 30 mph. Or, it will hold RPMs too long, resulting in harsh shifts. One of the posters mentioned a possible vaccum leak, is there a common place for that to happen?
 

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Sounds similar to the issue my 2014 Red Zone Plus is having, but, in addition to that, I also have sluggish performance and weird shifts, like wanting to be in 5th at 30 mph. Or, it will hold RPMs too long, resulting in harsh shifts. One of the posters mentioned a possible vaccum leak, is there a common place for that to happen?
No place in particular, to my knowledge. Any vacuum hose (along with the components they're connected to) can leak or become kinked, and some can become clogged. I personally haven't found any to be any more likely to be problematic than others.

A vacuum tester is a good tool to have around. Vacuum leaks can cause all kinds of problems, many of which can be fixed for a couple of dollars if it's just a hose. They're more useful if you have the service manual so you know what the numbers are supposed to be, but a lot of that information is on the Interwebs nowadays.

Richard
 

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I have been using starting fluid to test, as recommended by a friend who manages an O'Riley auto parts store. So far, no luck finding the leak. I've never had this kind of trouble with a car before, and it has only 50,000 miles on it.
 

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I would check the brake rotors. They could be warped.
If I understand the OP, the vibration is not occurring as he brakes to a stop but rather occurs once the vehicle has come to a full stop and the vehicle is resting while the brake is applied. At that point the rotors are no longer turning so warpage that might be caused by stuck caliper pins is unlikely to be the cause.

This is an interesting problem that I do not recall coming across elsewhere. Am not at all surprised that the dealer was stumped.
 
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