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As the title says, I'd like to replace some of the exterior lightning to LEDs, primarily starting with the parking lights (used as Daytime Running Lights) and main head lamps. I've read a lot of problems about these conversions, mainly in the form of hyper flashing (noted, probably won't replace blinkers anyway), or sometimes it affecting the electrical system in weird ways. Apparently most problems can be fixed with a load resistor, though I have no idea how I'd install one to the parking lights/blinkers as the socket these fit in is tiny, as shown here:

I guess what I'm trying to say, is as the title says. Are there any other problems/dangers I should know of before going ahead with this? I think it might be relatively safe to try the Sylvania 2357 (https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/turn-signal-light-mini-bulb/sylvania-led-mini-bulb-2357sylled/13921_0_1556_2805) as parking lights, but I'd still like to hear your opinion on this guys.

Thank you for your time!
 

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I replaced my headlights on my 2007 with after market LEDs I found on Amazon. The site asked for my year, make and model then identified the lights that would fit. They’re still shining after 2 years, Hallelujah!!! The OEM lights burned out 2 to 3 times per year and were a pain to replace. You have to take off the bumper and getting the bulb halogen bulb out of the lens and reinstalled was a daunting task. The dealer wanted over $200 to replace those halogens that kept burning out! So I YouTubed how to do it myself. The LEDs were less than $30 for the bulbs but soooo worth it
 

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As the title says, I'd like to replace some of the exterior lightning to LEDs, primarily starting with the parking lights (used as Daytime Running Lights) and main head lamps. I've read a lot of problems about these conversions, mainly in the form of hyper flashing (noted, probably won't replace blinkers anyway), or sometimes it affecting the electrical system in weird ways. Apparently most problems can be fixed with a load resistor, though I have no idea how I'd install one to the parking lights/blinkers as the socket these fit in is tiny, as shown here:

I guess what I'm trying to say, is as the title says. Are there any other problems/dangers I should know of before going ahead with this? I think it might be relatively safe to try the Sylvania 2357 (Sylvania LED Mini Bulb 2357SYLLED) as parking lights, but I'd still like to hear your opinion on this guys.

Thank you for your time!
As the title says, I'd like to replace some of the exterior lightning to LEDs, primarily starting with the parking lights (used as Daytime Running Lights) and main head lamps. I've read a lot of problems about these conversions, mainly in the form of hyper flashing (noted, probably won't replace blinkers anyway), or sometimes it affecting the electrical system in weird ways. Apparently most problems can be fixed with a load resistor, though I have no idea how I'd install one to the parking lights/blinkers as the socket these fit in is tiny, as shown here:

I guess what I'm trying to say, is as the title says. Are there any other problems/dangers I should know of before going ahead with this? I think it might be relatively safe to try the Sylvania 2357 (Sylvania LED Mini Bulb 2357SYLLED) as parking lights, but I'd still like to hear your opinion on this guys.

Thank you for your time!
I've had led head lights, fog lights, license plate lights, reverse lights, and interior lights for 2 years now no issues. As far as the turn signals go if you want them they make them that don't hyper flash
 

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I'd highly recommend you reconsider on the turn signals! Get a pair of switchback LEDs and accompanying resistors, you won't regret it! It'll act as a pretty good DRL as well! These are the set that I bought (don't mind the smile link haha you should use it honestly, the donation is free!).


You'll need resistors or the bulbs will hyperflash and occasionally flicker in this strange mode that looks similar to that of a retrofitted emergency vehicle. Just get a set of crimp wire taps (the kind that has two thread holes that you put both wires through and then clamp it down with some pliers, this is easier than cutting the wires and should be more easily reversed if necessary) and find a way to fix the resistor to the chassis away from plastics/wires. They say they get very hot, mine don't seem to but it's not worth the risk of melting plastic or causing a fire. I tied them down with some arts and craft wire into some random holes in the chassis rather than boring new holes using metal screws.

If you'd like to see them in action, albeit in very bright sunlight, I posted a review on that amazon page with a video linked to it (I can't post the video here due to file format issues but I'll include a pic of the DRL mode that I found on my cloud storage just now). They don't look very bright but they are pretty similar to most stock DRLs out there and are great for that twilight hour after sunset.

The switchback works flawlessly and this particular set came with a lens on the bulb to help project the light down the road a bit (along with a color temperature that matches my headlights perfectly 😉). They aren't much more than a regular set of LED bulbs either, so if you (or anyone finding this thread) do decide to go LED for signals, I'd definitely recommend switchback bulbs for the added DRL feature!

Don't bother with the rear signals though, it'll be a hell of a process finding a place for the resistors and even if you did, considering bulb replacement of any kind requires removal of the taillight assembly, you'll probably have to be extremely careful when replacing brake/signal/reverse bulbs or risk having the resistor leads pull apart. (plus you'll have to remove the plastic interior to get at an area of the chassis with enough room for the resistor to fit).

Do you have any plans to do the interior?

Edit: here's a night shot of the bulbs, after taking a look at the quality of my Amazon review video (they compressed the hell out of it), I figured I might as well considering the daylight shot doesn't show the DRLs well anyway!

 

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I'd highly recommend you reconsider on the turn signals! Get a pair of switchback LEDs and accompanying resistors, you won't regret it! It'll act as a pretty good DRL as well! These are the set that I bought (don't mind the smile link haha you should use it honestly, the donation is free!).


You'll need resistors or the bulbs will hyperflash and occasionally flicker in this strange mode that looks similar to that of a retrofitted emergency vehicle. Just get a set of crimp wire taps (the kind that has two thread holes that you put both wires through and then clamp it down with some pliers, this is easier than cutting the wires and should be more easily reversed if necessary) and find a way to fix the resistor to the chassis away from plastics/wires. They say they get very hot, mine don't seem to but it's not worth the risk of melting plastic or causing a fire. I tied them down with some arts and craft wire into some random holes in the chassis rather than boring new holes using metal screws.

If you'd like to see them in action, albeit in very bright sunlight, I posted a review on that amazon page with a video linked to it (I can't post the video here due to file format issues but I'll include a pic of the DRL mode that I found on my cloud storage just now). They don't look very bright but they are pretty similar to most stock DRLs out there and are great for that twilight hour after sunset.

The switchback works flawlessly and this particular set came with a lens on the bulb to help project the light down the road a bit (along with a color temperature that matches my headlights perfectly 😉). They aren't much more than a regular set of LED bulbs either, so if you (or anyone finding this thread) do decide to go LED for signals, I'd definitely recommend switchback bulbs for the added DRL feature!

Don't bother with the rear signals though, it'll be a hell of a process finding a place for the resistors and even if you did, considering bulb replacement of any kind requires removal of the taillight assembly, you'll probably have to be extremely careful when replacing brake/signal/reverse bulbs or risk having the resistor leads pull apart. (plus you'll have to remove the plastic interior to get at an area of the chassis with enough room for the resistor to fit).

Do you have any plans to do the interior?

Edit: here's a night shot of the bulbs, after taking a look at the quality of my Amazon review video (they compressed the hell out of it), I figured I might as well considering the daylight shot doesn't show the DRLs well anyway!


Did your car have DRLs to begin with or can these be used with a Soul that didn't come with DRLs? Do they just tap into your turn signal wires? Do you happen to have a link to the resistors you used?

I like this option as our Soul didn't come with DRLs. Thanks for sharing!
 

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Did your car have DRLs to begin with or can these be used with a Soul that didn't come with DRLs? Do they just tap into your turn signal wires? Do you happen to have a link to the resistors you used?

I like this option as our Soul didn't come with DRLs. Thanks for sharing!
I have a 2015 base so no, my vehicle didn't come with DRLs. These bulbs will come on white when parking lights are turned on (along with being on when the headlights are on too).

These are a great option for those wanting a simple DRL that looks stock. I'm adding a link to a youtube video I made last night that shows their brightness level in comparison to my headlights and also demonstrates the switchback mode for signalling/hazards as best as I could while making the video by myself. (I probably should've taken a second to setup my tripod but you can see the switchback well enough)


The resistors I used were bought spur of the moment at AutoZone, I bought the LEDs and was hoping to not need resistors but when I found I did, I just got the only ones they had for sale at my local AutoZone to avoid waiting on shipping a set. They're Sylvania brand, I'll link the ones I think they are but the brand may make a few different resistance levels so the link may be wrong (it's been awhile and I tossed the box after install so I don't remember the exact resistance level).

Here's a link to what my AutoZone search found: https://www.autozone.com/lighting/led-bulb-load-equalizer/sylvania-led-equalizer-2-pack/771931_0_0

My set was had an orange heatsink, so like I said earlier, these may not be the exact same ones. They don't list the resistance level on the website but most LED resistors are all around the same level so these should work just fine.

This is a similar set to mine on amazon. Again, these might not be the exact ones but they are the same color and brand, though the pictures packaging looks exactly as I remember the set I bought from my local store. Amazon lists them as 27w resistors.

Link: Amazon.com: SYLVANIA - Load Equalizer 27 Watt (at 12.8V) - Turn Signal Load Equalizer for LED Light Bulbs, Corrects Hyper Flash & Bulb Out Warning (Pack of 2): Automotive
 

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You'll need resistors or the bulbs will hyperflash and occasionally flicker in this strange mode that looks similar to that of a retrofitted emergency vehicle. Just get a set of crimp wire taps (the kind that has two thread holes that you put both wires through and then clamp it down with some pliers, this is easier than cutting the wires and should be more easily reversed if necessary) and find a way to fix the resistor to the chassis away from plastics/wires. They say they get very hot, mine don't seem to but it's not worth the risk of melting plastic or causing a fire. I tied them down with some arts and craft wire into some random holes in the chassis rather than boring new holes using metal screws.

Don't bother with the rear signals though, it'll be a hell of a process finding a place for the resistors and even if you did, considering bulb replacement of any kind requires removal of the taillight assembly, you'll probably have to be extremely careful when replacing brake/signal/reverse bulbs or risk having the resistor leads pull apart. (plus you'll have to remove the plastic interior to get at an area of the chassis with enough room for the resistor to fit).
I found the whole process of converting to LED front side markers, HID bulb upgrade, LED fog lights, LED reverse lights, LED license plate lights and LED front & rear turn signals quite easy, actually.

Using application specific resistors that are slim and include waterproof connectors, and with the proper heatsink; allow them to be mounted virtually anywwhere. Further, the harness has a threaded connection between the bulb harness and the resistor; making (unlikely) bulb changes no more difficult than the stock bulb.

After 13 months and almost 10,000 miles, no hyperflash, no bulb failures; in short: no issues.

vlr_pro_6_wc_4 (1).jpg duotap_harness_2_7 (1).jpg vlr_3_6_10_dims_6.jpg
Incandescent on driver's side; LED on passenger side:
 
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I found the whole process of converting to LED front side markers, HID bulb upgrade, LED fog lights, LED reverse lights, LED license plate lights and LED front & rear turn signals quite easy, actually.

Using application specific resistors that are slim and include waterproof connectors, and with the proper heatsink; allow them to be mounted virtually anywwhere. Further, the harness has a threaded connection between the bulb harness and the resistor; making (unlikely) bulb changes no more difficult than the stock bulb.

After 13 months and almost 10,000 miles, no hyperflash, no bulb failures; in short: no issues.

View attachment 134938 View attachment 134939 View attachment 134940
Incandescent on driver's side; LED on passenger side:
Those are some slick ballasts! I really like the way they engineered the taps, so much cleaner than the generic (and not waterproof) ones I used and in the event that you ever want/need to go back to stock, you'll be able to leave those tapped into the harness without worry.

Where did you decide to mount them? Are they directly behind the taillight assembly? I decided to pass on doing the rear signals because I was worried the assembly would make contact with the resistor's heatsink and cause melting over time. From what I've read, these types of resistors can get to 400°F or more. There isn't much room back there to fit a resistor (or really anything for that matter) so I'm curious as to where you managed to squeeze it.

Those heatsinks/resistors look to be half the thickness of the ones I used though, so I'd imagine these would be the ones to go for for such a project. I'm going to check them out now actually, just by looking at the engineering work that clearly went into them, I'd imagine they weren't very cheap :(

Edit: $15 each isn't too bad actually! I'll be putting these on my wish list for sure!

Thank you for this, very informative considering most every set of resistors I've seen has been basically the same design as those I posted (i.e. kinda obtrusive for placement behind the taillight/driver's side headlight assemblies).

Here's a link to them if anyone else is interested:
 

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Here's a link to them if anyone else is interested:

Amazon also carries them:

Also when searching Amazon for those resistors, other 6 Ohm resistor kits came up which are much cheaper than the set that you originally mentioned. I'd imagine they came from the same factory in China, but they do have decent Amazon reviews:

A few last questions if you don't mind? 😃
Being connected to the parking lights they need to be physically turned on/off and don't turn off with the car, correct? Don't they run the chance of being forgotten about and killing the battery?

I wonder if there's another hot wire to tap into that turns on/off with the car? Which wires did you tap into on your installation?

Thanks again!
 

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I mounted them behind the tail lights, on the innermost side of the outer body panel. This area is flat, and had the most clearance. For the front, I used a VLR6 extension, and mounted them on the inner fender. The VLEDS resistors have much more surface area than the standard "gold" resistors, which means they don't get as hot and dissipate heat better over a larger surface area.

They are not connected to the parking lights. Rather, they are connected to the turn signal power & ground to add load to the circuit. In the rear, these are easily identified by the leads coming off of the turn signal bulb socket. The front is application specific, and the exact wires will vary with trim level; but the same concept applies: turn signal power and ground.

IMPORTANT: test all circuits prior to interfacing with a quality VOM!

Also, use a quality dielectric paste for all connections for that added peace of mind:
Mission grease.jpg
You are free to purchase whatever products you want, from whichever vendor you prefer; my preference is direct from a Company that is known for quality, specialized products. VLEDS are somewhat local to me, and offer amazing customer service. While their products are more expensive than those offered on Amazon and eBay from a multitude of sellers, I have had great experiences with VLEDS.com LED headlight conversions, replacement bulbs and installation parts on multiple vehicles. Again, this is just based upon my experiences; you may have different needs and wants.

There are two things I have learned over the years: "quality only costs once." & "price, quality, service: pick two." Of course, YMMV.
 
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Amazon also carries them:

Also when searching Amazon for those resistors, other 6 Ohm resistor kits came up which are much cheaper than the set that you originally mentioned. I'd imagine they came from the same factory in China, but they do have decent Amazon reviews:

A few last questions if you don't mind? 😃
Being connected to the parking lights they need to be physically turned on/off and don't turn off with the car, correct? Don't they run the chance of being forgotten about and killing the battery?

I wonder if there's another hot wire to tap into that turns on/off with the car? Which wires did you tap into on your installation?

Thanks again!
If you're referring to the switchback LEDs, you'd have just as good of a chance at leaving your lights on as you do now. They come on as the parking lights on the turn signal stalk, so if you use your parking lights at all and don't have any problems forgetting to turn them off then you should be fine with these. They're a direct replacement for your front turn signals. They just have a board on them that alternates from white LEDs under normal, continuous operation and amber LEDs whenever the signals/hazards are triggered.

Technically, what you're describing could be done but it'd be one hell of a custom project if you wanted to place the DRL bulb inside the headlight's turn signal housing. The reason being, if you didn't wire a seperate bulb up (and connect it to board that switches the DRL off whenever the turn signals are active to allow the signal to be visible to oncoming traffic) you'd end up just deleting the signals which is not safe nor would it look as clean as just using a switchback bulb set.

Theoretically, the only way to make this idea work (without adding custom switch boards that alternate power on/off depending on other vehicle parameters) would be to find a way to run power from the timed overhead console light lead that comes on when the doors are opened. Using this lead for powering the DRL, along with wiring it up to the parking lights to allow it to be used during normal driving conditions, you'd be able to have the DRLs turn on momentarily after you exit the car and fade out along with the interior lights after 30 seconds or so.

This would be very convoluted and difficult and there is a chance that opening the doors whilist the parking lights are on could overload the bulbs and blow them (since they'd be receiving power from the overhead console AND the parking lights simultaneously), so you may have to put an inline fuse to prevent this (this would depend on how much amperage the bulbs can handle).

You'd probably be better off trying to upgrade your Soul with an OEM headlight timer from a higher end/newer vehicle (I'm not sure what years and/or trim levels had this feature). Again, this would be fairly tedious and likely expensive since I think this feature is a part of the EMS box attached to the under hood fuse panel. The EMS unit isn't intended to be swapped out/replaced and would require you to change out your entire fuse box and then figure out how to pin the new EMS unit out to the headlights to enable the feature for whatever DRLs you set up.

All in all, I think it'd be too much work with too many opportunities for something to go wrong along the way (not to mention expensive) just to get an auto off DRL.
 

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If you are looking for an easy way to add DRLs to your vehicle, you can always add LED striplight bars and wire them through the ignition circuit.
 

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If you are looking for an easy way to add DRLs to your vehicle, you can always add LED striplight bars and wire them through the ignition circuit.

You mean like the ones we talked about almost a year ago? 😉
 

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You mean like the ones we talked about almost a year ago? 😉
I was thinking more like: VLEDS
 

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Or instead of running DRLs, simply put your low beams on all the time. This way, you have lights in back.

Folks typically have no idea how some vehicles simply disappear in certain light conditions when front and back lights are not on.

The number one rule of surviving urban bicycle commuting is being seen. I would imagine that "being seen" goes a long way to reducing the probability of automobile accidents too.
 
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