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Discussion Starter #41
people always ask how i do these. i do them in paint. it seems tediouse but i find it relaxing :p good sunday project to work on some logicing for an idea to write it down on a print relaly helps cement it in your bain on what to do. I even went with a color code this time and printed it for myself so i can use it to wire the car when i'm ready. :p

 

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Discussion Starter #42
Damn projects been in hold so long I'm worried I'll be able to get back into it. But getting final contract for house and the loans almost done so hopefully another 2 weeks, I've begun to order some misc parts I'll need to finish up. Below is the harness I'll need to put kntk the amp, I'm doing this with no splicing.

I found the pins that slide in the molex connector on a kia forum so I can put new wires in, I'm hoping I can get the zapco mounted close enough to the stock amp so the wires coming out the zapco molex will be lined into the molex of the stock amp with out a single solder joint.

I'm gonna put a 1/4"/ aluminum pan mounted on threaded rods under the struts of the passenger seat much like the other member did except I'll be using a plate instead of tubing.
Some other parts I need to order - some molis because for whatever reason they put the center channel output on the input molex of the stock amp when it could of easily gone on the output molex with the rest of the speaker outputs. :/ idk why they did this, maybe I'll be able to slide out the pins and avoid the moli splice.


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Discussion Starter #43
The kia is parked in the grass on blocks and shall remain till I FINILY finish this 2 year project! Things have changed souch I wanna go over my gear and see if theirs anything different I can be doing as far as tapping into the stock stereo


Has anything come out that can take the CAN bus's controls and decode logic 7 into a processor yet? That was my biggest problem with this car I LOVE the stereo features. And the HVAC controller are in the stock headunit, whitch is awesome. Built in music storage, 20gb or something, capacitive touchscreen. Good gps. I WILL not touch that it stays

Anyways the house is finily settled into, everything's painted. The home theater project is done :) so it's starting to get warm tomorrow's the first warm day of the season so I'm gonna tear some things down figure out what I want to do next. Thinking the front door is my next biggest hurdle. Still can't figure out how to fit the new speaker wires down the sleeve because the stock wire harness is so large on the driver side( the passenger side is easy) and once the speakers are installed I'll work on the amp and processor. The processor will beounted under the passenger seat where the stock amp is off of threaded rods(seen on shelf of gear) and RCA's will be run to the spare tire well where the crossovers, and the mmats amps will be mounted.



edit :
was looking at this JL twk 88 awhile back while i was on break from the build i forgot about it just found it again. i see it takes a digital input would this decode logic 7 and the volume controls from the stock deck? im just not sure if it;'ll work :\

a2c0d05fbdd2ab209b811033357ce6cf.jpg
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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
so i had no idea where i was on this projecxt ive been going through my parts seeing what i did rereading my build log (good reason to keep one folks)i also keep a private collection of photos :fatigue:

anyways ive almost got a game plan ive changed things once again, now no LOC, just going directly into the z8 found out it does take line level inputs just through the rca's odd setup but yes. anyways, i took apart my mmatts oldschool amp just to make sure nothing was burnt out. looks great :D







the disdtrobution block for my setup. hard to find a ground with a built in fused block all in one these days idk why but i picked this up somwhere in my collecting.

 

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Sweet Christmas this is impressive and all I want to do is a simple mount for a tablet haha awesome work and like reading the progress you have made.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
its been slow but soon as i have the money to order these small parts im gonna tear this down but i gatta fix my other car too before inspection and thiers another cost <-< working weekends doesnty help the cause. we're officly over 2 years since the start of this build since i actually took it apart after having the gear xD
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
ordered nearly all the parts needed to finish the build ill still need some lumber and some glue and carpet but ill have the wiring and hardware ill need to mount the zapco dsp under the front passenger seet on a plate mounted to the seat rails.

i'll be starting soon ive been tinkering on the plate for the interface for the DSP in the fuse box cover. <img src="http://www.kiasoulforums.com/images/smilies/smile.png" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /> so at least ive made some progress.






used a JB weld to hold it in, tried to use black so it woluld blend into the piece but it didnt work out and i tried ploishing it off with the dremel but the brush i used was a little agressive XD not sure if i care...black market on the edge and let it be its out of sight mostly anyways <img src="http://www.kiasoulforums.com/images/smilies/smile.png" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />_
]\\

 

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Discussion Starter #51
sorry i havnt ever finished this haha. life is a bitch. but ive been making headway on it in this quarentine bs. i've started installing the drivers and deadeningt he doors. i have one door down of 4 and am currently tinkering with the tweeter pod. ive also pre wired up the jl fix 82 whitch is how ive chosen to take signal from the car to the new system. their stil lisnt any moduels out that';ll take that digital signal and the can buss controls ive talked to many people over the years still nothing. so ive picked up in the mean time a JBL ms-8 gonna just make it really easy to get up and going. i still have the zapco unit but it'd be an easy swap out. once these drivers are installed the next thing is the amp rack and its pretty much over from their :)









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what i found most amazing about these doors is their completly sealed...i tried to take the plasic panel off but it involves a pully system with the windows...but the whole thing sits on a gasket. its pretty well sealed and the wires that come to the door panel come through very thick rubber gromits...theirs also very strong strugal tubing running through the door. i wasnt able to get the plastic off and wasn't looking to risk breaking something i didnt fully understand, i was able to reach inside and deaden with the vibration matting where ever i could reach through it had no rattle points i worry with the higher output of this after market system ill find more noises. ive noticed over the years of owningt he car some noises have just come out with age. one noise ive still not been able to resolve is the seat belt mechanism on the t bar between the front and back doors, i may just deaden the panel with some mass loaded vinyl to just simply silence the area from being heard outside the panel.
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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
Dang, year and a half install? You decided to stick with the sub in the factory spot instead of somewhere else?
year and a half? try 4 lol ive been working on since i bought it late 2015, basicly cracked it in 2016 i believe. but I'm getting their, been busy with the house and a side job. now im working back on the house, redoing mny bathroom and having my downstairs floor redone, gatta redo my floor molding, gata replace a hose outlet in my powder room in the house... than i gatta build a house for my pet pig in the yard because he out grew the house, wel he mostly wouldnt stop destroying it. so my plates full right now, but been chipping away at it, still havnt had time to put the other rear speaker in, than gatta get the car torn back apart to put the tweeters in whitch are mounted and wired int he tweeter housing\vent housing i took out of the car, but i didnt run the tweeter wires allt he way origonaly for some dumb reason and i gatta add some rca's so i gatta tear the whole car open again.

took the tweeterpods\vents to a shop had them mod me in a little plate for the tweet to sit in, than i took the tweeter and wraped it in second skin sound damplifier butyl rope basicly a puddy very stick very stridy. worked great as a make shift mount basicly conformed to the shape of the housing as i squeesed it int heir, also put some under it as the housing had the tweeter sitting lop sided, so i basicly paid a shopo 100$ to put me in a piece of plastic...took them 3 hours though so it saved me allot of hassle. i finished the mounting so i dont feel like i completly sold out lol but i probobly will have them do the amp shelf. as im afraid of putting a hole in my gas tank like many have done doing so.
tweeter 1.jpg
tweeter 2.jpg
tweeter 3.jpg
 

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Oh nice. I like the tweeter setup. I was just going to build my own adapter to drop my tweeters in. Gave up the factory sub location idea and just going to build my own box to go under the rear floor to house a single 12.
 

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Hello Eviling, New to this thread and maybe too late, that looks like an amazing project you've been through !
I have one question for you : I am facing an issue on my Kia with the factory amp (fried !). I'm trying to use the spdif wires from the harness to install a digital sound decoder to input analog signals to a new multi-channel amp and get back through the harness to the speakers. The purpose is not to upgrade, but to have a working audio setup without spending hundred of $ to purchase a new OEM amp.
I have a uvo/infinity HU with spdif/+, spdif/- and spdif gnd pins. How did you wire those to your decoder? Did it work ? I also plan to use a 5.1 rush digital sound decoder but I don't know for sure the type of digital signal the HU is sending...
Thanks for any advice.
Sebnet
 

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View attachment 133717 View attachment 133715 View attachment 133716

what i found most amazing about these doors is their completly sealed...i tried to take the plasic panel off but it involves a pully system with the windows...but the whole thing sits on a gasket. its pretty well sealed and the wires that come to the door panel come through very thick rubber gromits...theirs also very strong strugal tubing running through the door. i wasnt able to get the plastic off and wasn't looking to risk breaking something i didnt fully understand, i was able to reach inside and deaden with the vibration matting where ever i could reach through it had no rattle points i worry with the higher output of this after market system ill find more noises. ive noticed over the years of owningt he car some noises have just come out with age. one noise ive still not been able to resolve is the seat belt mechanism on the t bar between the front and back doors, i may just deaden the panel with some mass loaded vinyl to just simply silence the area from being heard outside the panel. View attachment 133714
I was hoping you had solved this problem already. This has me stumped. I believe the best option is to use the stock wire pair for the driver. I am thinking through how it is wired. The driver pair is Blue/Red. The driver tweeter pair is Green/Red. I first popped the door panel off hoping to see the tweeter pigtail off the driver and thus could confirm that a single pair feeds from the radio to the driver. Somewhere in the series it breaks out to something else to allow the two components to run. I assume the run parallel of a single pair from the radio?

I know you are driving your tweeter and midbass from seperate amp channels so you don't have my problem. My thought is to run the amp speaker leads to the dash and use the crossover for the components at that point. the midbass speaker leads from the component crossover will connect to the drivers side/front speaker pair at the factory wiring harness. A new pair of leads will route from the crossover to the tweeter in the stock location. Any thoughts on if this would work? I am working on the assumption that the OEM tweeter and midbass are wired in parallel from a single channel on the OEM radio.

I think this is the only solution. If I place the component crossover pod at the speaker I would need to keep the tweeter in the door and not use the stock location.
 

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I always run new wires- then you're not stuck with trying to figure out where the factory wiring goes, and you can control your own wire quality. It's not so bad to run new wires into doors. I mount the crossovers inboard (under seats or in dash) and then run new wires to the mids and tweeters. Things get tight if I'm ramming two pairs of wires through the door grommet, but that shouldn't be an issue in the Soul since the tweeters are on the dash.
 
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