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BRP claims that their CanAm Spyder 1330 triple will go 9500 miles between oil changes and survive their warranty (two years, unlimited mileage).

Kia markets their Soul to survive 7500 mile oil changes for their exceptional warranty period.

But what if you want the engine to survive long past the warranty period?

I will continue to advocate not exceeding 5000 miles even on pure synthetic oil... If you plan on keeping the vehicle long-term.

You can decide who has more clout, to promote sales; marketing or engineers.
 

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I plan on driving my Kia Soul (without warranty claims) till I die and then be buried in it.
So I'll give her the very best maintenance that I can. It's cheap insurance.

:cool:
 

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After filling up my car yesterday, I came home and ran the numbers through my Excel spreadsheet, as is my habit.
The display on the car always shows me getting over 30 mpg, but for the last tank full of gas, my spreadsheet said I got only 26.5 mpg for that tank. That's a huge discrepancy.
People who rely ONLY on the car's readout are just not getting the whole story. Numbers don't lie!

Cheers Mates!
:cool:
 

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After filling up my car yesterday, I came home and ran the numbers through my Excel spreadsheet, as is my habit.
The display on the car always shows me getting over 30 mpg, but for the last tank full of gas, my spreadsheet said I got only 26.5 mpg for that tank. That's a huge discrepancy.
People who rely ONLY on the car's readout are just not getting the whole story. Numbers don't lie!

Cheers Mates!
:cool:
It is very close if you drive sensibly. Wen you push it, it will be off
 

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Willy,
I've not seen that driving style has anything to do with it. But it does stand to reason that if I'm driving on the Super Slab at 90 mph, I'm not going to get the same MPG as if I were only driving at 60 mph.
Why are we still even discussing this?

:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Forget the so called 'Dishonest Dealers' for a moment. What the OM says about Normal and Severe is not deceptive or difficult to read or understand, for most people anyway, and has nothing to do with your dealer.

Just in case, y'all have not read this lately, here it is, to read again.
View attachment 134411

If I only say "Yes" to "E" in that list, * (and sometimes, F, J, K, and C) and I must, living in FL, (where ultra fine sand is everywhere) then I automatically have to use the Severe schedule for my own Oil Changes. My Service Manager agrees with me. Counting by 3750 is not the easiest thing, so I just round it off to 3000 miles and go with that. My own KIA dealer agrees that it's OK, and so they change my oil and filter every 3000 miles without a whimper.
OH.... and I just shut off that annoying maintenance reminder on the car. It's easy to do. And if my dealer's mechanic puts one of those little stickers on my windshield, I just toss it!
I thoroughly believe in the old saying, KISS (Keep it simple, Stupid) Eh?

Y'all have a great day now, Y'hear?

FLH :cool:
Actually you make my point. Kia gives two intervals - 7500 mile for normal and 3750 mile for severe. Do you see any 5000 mile interval? Nope. The dealers are setting the maintenance computer to a 5k mile interval, totally without any support in Kia's own maintenance guidelines in the owner's manual, to knick an extra service every 15k miles for those subject to the normal interval, which is like 90% of all drivers based on Kia's description of normal vs. severe.

It is dishonest penny-pinching by greedy dealer service shops - a trap for the unwary customer.
 

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Dishonest? Not when services are performed.
More realistic than Kia? Yes.

I continue to suggest that 7500 mile (or longer) oil change intervals are more marketing driven than engineer recommended.

Yes, we now have better oils available, but accumulation of particle suspension still occurs.

If you do not plan on keeping your Soul or any other Kia past the warranty, then do minimum maintenance and caveat emptor for the next owner.

However, if you plan on long-term ownership, then don't push the mileage between oil changes.

Do use 5W30 pure synthetic and check the oil level at least monthly, for fill level and for color.
 

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When I managed a tire store, mid-eighties, we sold tires, brakes, shocks, struts, front end work, such as ball joints, tie rods, etc..
Brake inspections were normal, with wheels off.
When a mechanic would advise "this car/truck needs brakes" he was compelled to advise the remaining thickness in mm.
I would then bring the customer into the work bay, and show the thickness with a caliper, advising the minimum recommended by manufacturer (typically 3 mm)
Typical presentation "You are getting close to needing brakes, would you like to do it now, while you are here?"

Most agreed, especially to a soft sell approach.

Now, it may not be an issue, down to the last 0.5 mm, but it would not be prudent to so advise.
The co-effecient of friction of metal to metal is actually better than pad/shoe to steel, but it is expensive.

So, is it dishonest to recommend what is likely best for the driver/owner?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Not sure, but if it did, it was probably plugged. Everything else in the engine was.

Actually oil has been oil, for a billion years. It's only the additives that have changed. And it's the additives that break down with time, once the oil has been put in the engine. Some can even turn to acids.
I feel quite good, getting all that crap out of my engine on a timely basis.
I actually enjoy the days that I spend at my dealership, getting my car serviced, and washed, and they check for any updates, and I get that Great Bumper to Bumper inspection. If they find anything wrong, they will fix it.
Like, the day I took Jem in for an oil change, and the mechanic found something sticking in the sidewall of one tire.
They just installed a NEW tire, NO charge.
I also enjoy walking around and talking with key people, like the parts man who had become a good friend. And I can examine all the new cars in the showroom. That Teluride is a Monster!
And after the service, I drive a few blocks down the road to "Cody's Roadhouse" for lunch and refreshments.
An Oil Change day, becomes an enjoyable outing for me. It's as much a social event as a car maintenance day. And it costs me Nothing, except for gas and lunch.

Happy Trails, Mates!
:cool:
Full synthetic is relatively new. Wonderful stuff. It retains lubricity long after dino-oil or fakey synthetic blends are dirty and unprotective becoming abrasive sludges rather than lubricants in your engine. For demanding conditions (such as racing) they no longer use old fashioned dino-oil.

I really like Chevron/Texaco's Havoline full synthetics. Not hugely more than normal or blended oils, but great performing (on par with more costly Mobil 1 in oxygen uptake testing). To get better oil longevity you'd have to go with small name boutique synthetics like Amsoil which cost an arm and a leg compared to big brand synthetics.

On the tire thing, you don't want a mismatched tire. At a minimum you want front pairs and rear pairs to have similar levels of wear (that is each tire on that axle ought to have similar wear but on a FWD vehicle it's no big deal to have one pair in better condition than the pair on the other axle). I'd quickly get a second new tire to mate with the new replacement on the same axle. Otherwise when those two tires are rotated to the front, you'll be putting strain on your differential as it'll be spinning and shifting power between two different diameter wheels.
 
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