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Discussion Starter #1
This is getting crazy. Has anybody had issues with the oem cheap plastic strut bearings? I have had 3 installed in the last 6 months, only to get a single pop noise when sitting still and slightly turning left or right. the noise is a single snap type noise from the driver front suspension. Replaced new top hat, strut top nut, bearing, spring seat and strut mount and top insulator. When I turn the wheel slightly and place hand under hood, on top of strut, you can feel the snap/pop noise in a single sound when turning the wheel ever so slightly, then the noise is gone. It happens only when car is stationary. Dont hear it at all if turning wheel faster or going into a turn and car is actually moving. No clunk or any noise going over bumps. car rides perfectly smooth. No vibration or anything either when driving. It actually drives like a new vehicle as I take exceptional care of it. But I do know that this pop type noise, should NOT be happening with all the new parts in there! It is definitely coming from the strut assembly. The only parts NOT replaced on the left driver side, are an aftermarket strut and an oem coil. Please, I need to get some advise on this before contacting the dealer who did the work. SIDE NOTE: the bearing that they took out prior, that was causing a pop noise and binding noise, on the SAME SIDE, the bearing itself, actually didnt even pivot! The bearing is suppose to turn and this one wasnt causing the coil spring to keep binding and poppping when trying to turn. I have no binding noise right now, just a single snap/pop when turning right or left, coming from driver side only.

Could it be another bad strut bearing?? or could it actually be the aftermarket strut sticking? uuggghhh please help! thanks all
 

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This is a tough thing to diagnose from a computer screen. If you had the work done by a dealer, the simple solution is have them redo it until there's no popping. Question, though: how often do you have to turn the wheels while sitting still? While I would agree the parts should be up to snuff, moving the front suspension on any car while it's not moving is harder on the parts than when in motion.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You are absolutely right jdmartin. The noise actually occurs once while backing out of parking space, while in reverse as well, but noise is totally in the left front strut assembly somewhere. It only does it on the left. The passenger side is quiet as a mouse. Its a quick pop/snap noise, like something sticking. I wish I could just put a quick strut in that side, but I think it would hinder the right side as that is all oem parts. AND, a BIG AND, i have yet to find "quality" quick struts for a kia soul. Unity ones are "poop". there are actually 12 separate strut assembly parts to install, just on one side front of a kia soul! I do have an appointment with dealer tomorrow morning for them to fix it again!
 

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If you changed the struts. It seems like they're still loose or not adjusted correctly.
Check the nut that holds the struts itself on item 2. (Not the top hat above)
Capture+_2019-06-13-15-10-38_1560453090149.jpg
 

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UPDATE REPORT: so, i go to mechanic today and he insists this noise is NOT coming from the strut assembly, so we talk back and forth about theories and I then, finally say, well, its not normal for the car to be making this noise and he agreed, so the shop foreman now comes over who is considered, the master noise mechanic, which I appreciate because I have somehow developed the nickname, "noise queen" to which I apppreciate, and the foreman says, put him and the car up on the lift, and while he turns the wheel, snap snap, pop pop coming from the front left suspension. The mechanic is underneath with a scope and listening and starts tugging on parts.....he then comes out to the wiating area and gets me and says, we found your problem and it is going to be expensive! (i had no idea he was actually joking, so now, im like, oh great!) the foreman is still in my car on the lift and is turning the wheel, pop snap pop, and the mechanic takes a long bar and puts it between the end sway bar link and the noise immediately goes away! They have one in stock (oem) and replace it. When the mechanic comes out, he shows me the end link and says, in all 35 years of doing mechanical work, I have never seen or heard a sway bar end link make this noise, just by turning the wheel! They always make noise over bumps, which I did not have! The one end of the sway bar was actually locking in place when he tried to move the spindle and that is the end that was connected to the strut assembly! So, $100 later and I am now happy to report, noise free! These guys went above and beyond....you don't get that these days, especially from dealer mechanics, at least in my experience! So, I admitted to them, that I was wrong about the strut assembly being the issue. I was way off on this and I am usually correct! ;)
 

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I came to this thread too late (because it was in "aftermarket modifications"), but when reading the first post my money was on something on the lower part of the suspension too.

When you rotate the wheel statically (without rolling), there is a much higher resisting torque and that's applied mostly on the bottom of the suspension, in the spindle. The lower ball joint and the control arm bushings should be strong enough to cope with that lateral torque.
The fact that your sway bar link was making noise means that something else let that movement to happen to the point that damaged the sway bar link - I would check the ball joint and the control arm bushings. Sadly, while the car weight is unloaded makes those seem to be "fine" when checked by hand. I only trust when I pull out the ball joint from the spindle and move it by hand - it should be tight to move.

It's easy enough to replace the ball joint, for peace of mind:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/kia,2011,soul,2.0l+l4,1447402,suspension,ball+joint,10070
Or the whole control arm:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/kia,2011,soul,2.0l+l4,1447402,suspension,control+arm,10401

PS: The more you go "up", further away from that torque application point, the lower the forces are.
That's why the upper control arm and ball joint was always weaker in construction, and that's why it could be completely eliminated with the McPherson system - go high enough, and you will have such a small steering torque that a small bearing can handle it.
Every pothole you hit, creates a big reaction force in the lower ball joint.
 
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