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Thanks for the great responses, guys!

I'm 6'7" so a Civic is out of the question. I'm kinda stuck with what I can fit in and the soul fits me pretty well.

I have a question about the clutch switch mod. So, would I be correct to assume if I switch to "stock" mode and use the cruise, would I then be able to "cancel" the cruise by switching back to "sport" mode? This works on the fly, right? So I can be flying on the freeway in "sport" mode, and flip the switch to "stock" and then set my speed accordingly? Does that make sense?

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Discussion Starter #222
Yes you can switch on the fly but if you had it it stock mode with the cruise on at highway speed and then switched it to sport mode. Then depressed the clutch the cruise would not shut off unless you hit the brake pedal. My suggestion would be if you go on a trip and want the cruise just leave it in stock mode.

Mark
 

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Has anyone tried starting the car and leaving the switch plugged in but just unbolting it and letting it dangle so that pressing the clutch doesn't engage the switch?

I'm assuming you would not be able to start the car this way but would this remove the lag and still allow the cruise to work at the same time?



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So, as of today 8-11-18 I worked this Mod on my 2016 Soul Base MT. Previously, I have added eyebrow LEDs (lower edge), installed new switch and harness to get Cruise, and got a junker arm-rest console. This mod seems to work as advertised and I am pumped about it...and my car overall. BTW, I get about 29-31 mpg with my general driving....lower on when more townish and higher when more Highwayish.
Best to all and thanks for everyone's input.

I have thought about upgrading the stereo, but frankly car is quiet and sound is awesome already. And, while I'd like to have rear camera....seems expensive and a lot of work. I put large white reflectors over my fog-light blanks and that looks good.

Anyone have other mods to recommend, I'm all ears.
 

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First as a preface, I got my first soul, a 2015 base MT about half a year ago. At the time I was replacing a '04 civic w/ 5 speed and I had a hard time adjusting to what felt to be 'weird gearing' of the soul. After some time I managed to get used to it, as GeoSoul eluded to, by shifting fast from 1st to 3rd and other tricks. But at the end of the day sometimes I still feel like I'm a novice with a stick shift when driving a soul, despite driving manuals for many years. I just assumed this was a gearing issue until discovering this thread today. I went ahead and read the whole thing in its entirety, and realized there were two seemingly viable options presented.

The original post presents the 'sport/eco switch method' which in essence disconnects / connects the clutch switch.

The second method, the 'clutch switch adjustment method' is found here in post #110. It shows a simple method to mechanically adjust the switch engagement.

I tested first, by disconnecting the switch after starting her up, rolling down the driveway to the road, putting in into 1st and then 2nd...


HOLY $#|+!

To me, this is night and day. Literally feels like a different car.

Next up, I reconnected the switch and preformed the 'clutch switch adjustment method' by pushing the clutch pedal towards the drivers side with one hand and the 'back finger' to the passenger side with the other to minimize bending of the plastic and potentially breaking. It was a simple thing and took 10 seconds. I then tested the play in my clutch pedal and although the 'forward finger' does rub slightly on part of the firewall/strut, on my car it does not need cut/altered. I think that if I were to do anything; I would extend the rubber clutch pedal bumper some, to shorten clutch travel ever so slightly & prevent the 'front finger' from ever hitting anything. I'd probably just add a spacer to the part of the firewall that the clutch pedal bumper touches.

Took it out for a drive on the same route as before through town. It's literally the same feel that disconnecting the switch gave me. It's worlds better than it used to be.

Now in my case, I installed CC the other weekend and I am not inclined to install a switch to use my new toy unless I really have to. I am also concerned about this:
Yes you can switch on the fly but if you had it it stock mode with the cruise on at highway speed and then switched it to sport mode. Then depressed the clutch the cruise would not shut off unless you hit the brake pedal.
I'm scared about just this happening and my engine revving to redline in half a second. I know this can happen because a little birdie told me that if you shift out of gear in CC without touching the clutch or brake, the same happens.

One thing I love about the 'sport/eco switch method', is automatic the removal of the dummy shift display. God I hate that thing and would LOVE to disable it, but despite that I am going to keep the clutch switch connected full time and just use the 'clutch switch adjustment method'. It's simple, it's free, it allows me to use cruise control normally. It's almost like KIA should have built in some adjustment from the factory. :stupid:

BIG thanks to everyone here, obviously the more heads you get together on a problem the better. In this case it yielded two viable options which I recommend that EVERYONE with a base M/T try immediately.
 

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FYI - I went with option 2 (moving the sensor arm towards the firewall) when I first got my 2016MT Soul three years ago. Worked great, but recently, I found that my clutch seemed to be doing some sort of micro-slipping going into 2nd from time to time. I drive very little (I work from home), so pretty sure it's not clutch wear. Plus it only happens going into 2nd, not engaging 1st, so another reason why I think it's not the clutch. Anyways, I was curious about this specific mod, so I restored the sensor back to the factory position, and the weird slipping is gone... It's probably coincidence, and there's no reason to think the two are related without any additional info, but the problem is there is no official info about this, so who knows why Kia decided to introduce that lame delay going into 2nd and what that sensor adjustment really does... For now, I'm not going to try option 1 (the switch) as I use cruise too much to want to bother with remembering to enable/disable the switch, but this is something I'm going to keep an eye on. Would appreciate a follow-up post from you if you ever notice anything similar...
 

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That's interesting skyline. I drive 50 miles a day or so and I'll definitely report back if I have any issues. As far as how this works, I thought savagedsoul explained it quite well in post #118.
Basically you are increasing the delay between when the switch makes contact, and when the clutch actually starts to engage the driveteain. Increasing this delay allows the Kia delay hesitation to happen earlier (relative to clutch engagement) and thereby decreasing or eliminating it altogether. That's my understanding anyway...
 

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Yes, I wasn't very clear. I understand what the mod is trying to do, what I meant is I don't know why Kia originally added that delay (i.e. what problem they were trying to address), and what the changed sensor position from the mod does to that underlying problem. I definitely like the mod, but if the mod is causing some undocumented problem to surface, then that's probably not worth it for me.

So for now, I'm keeping the sensor in the factory position, may mess around with it again if I get too frustrated with the delay...
 

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So I just did this according to the physical adjustment method, but even though the delay when actually shifting is better than stock, it's still there on a fast 1-2 shift. I still think there's opportunity to make a simple circuit to cut the clutch switch after start, and then maybe have it put back to normal once cruise is engaged. You'd be able to kill the cruise with the clutch since it would behave normally, then it could revert to the disconnected state. Since any clutch-in event on cruise would kill the cruise control anyway, there's no reason for the clutch switch to be disconnected when the cruise is engaged. Seems simple-ish enough to me.

Start car, wait 5-10 seconds, interrupt clutch switch line
When cruise engaged, reconnect clutch switch line
When cruise not engaged, interrupt clutch line

So a timer after start that cuts the connection, unless cruise is engaged- then revert to normal until cruise goes away. When the car powers off, reset the circuit.
 

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But thinking about it again, since that would cause the system to throw an error code- maybe there's a way to clock the switch housing so the fingers are in the maximum angle without stressing the mechanism when the clutch is all the way down? It'd be as simple as drilling another hole in the bracket and mounting the switch at a different angle. Maybe that could enable a larger at-rest angle with the clutch at rest, which would trip the throttle delay earlier, and make the shift even better than just moving the fingers to the other side of the pin. I also don't like how the switch fingers bend against the bracket on the firewall once they're put behind the pin. If you look at it while pressing the clutch down you'll see what I mean.
 

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Discussion Starter #231
If you have cruise control just install the switch which will put you back to stock. My switch is always in sport mode and have never looked back.

Mark
 

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If you have cruise control just install the switch which will put you back to stock. My switch is always in sport mode and have never looked back.

Mark
If it was just me I would- but my wife will never remember or deign to be bothered with a switch to flip back and forth while she's driving. It has to be seamless. :)
 

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But thinking about it again, since that would cause the system to throw an error code- maybe there's a way to clock the switch housing so the fingers are in the maximum angle without stressing the mechanism when the clutch is all the way down? It'd be as simple as drilling another hole in the bracket and mounting the switch at a different angle. Maybe that could enable a larger at-rest angle with the clutch at rest, which would trip the throttle delay earlier, and make the shift even better than just moving the fingers to the other side of the pin. I also don't like how the switch fingers bend against the bracket on the firewall once they're put behind the pin. If you look at it while pressing the clutch down you'll see what I mean.
On mine the forward finger just barely touches the firewall brace and it is a non issue, but it's nearly one. I thought about the same thing with adjusting the switch mounting, in my case I was thinking about 3D printing a new 'finger arm' which has adjustment. I still may, but I'd want to order a new switch to take apart and take dimensions from.
 

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On mine the forward finger just barely touches the firewall brace and it is a non issue, but it's nearly one. I thought about the same thing with adjusting the switch mounting, in my case I was thinking about 3D printing a new 'finger arm' which has adjustment. I still may, but I'd want to order a new switch to take apart and take dimensions from.
I might just measure and then make a drill template...
 

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My molten is a 2.0l 11 with cable driven throttle, I don't notice anything other than the gear ratio is a little off going from 2nd to 3rd.
From reading these posts I have a question for some Gen2 drivers with lag /lurch issues - Do you take your foot completely off the accelerator?
I ask because I am suspect of a design flaw in the engine braking. I notice molten holding me back under cruise on every down hill and sometimes even a dip in the road.
Semi's have engine braking for vehicle stopping assistance.
Some models have more coast under cruise down hill than others. Most will disengage EB if the clutch is pressed. All disengage under throttle. When floating gears the EB will kick in unless your foot is "resting" on one of them. On Eaton-Fuller automated shift 10 speeds the computer will chirp the EB to speed up the shift, sometimes to skip shift, sometimes to triple skip. That pattern can be recreated on Eaton's standard 10 but there is a certain bounce to the throttle and timing to achieve power at the right moment.
I suspect Kia
(A) forgot to turn off engine braking when the clutch is pressed and the injectors are relearning engine load, - the lag is a compensation for what it thinks is an overdose
(B) intentionally engage engine braking to reset RPM's to expedite the shift but forgot to anticipate the injectors relearn cycle. Like how the ISG models will chirp the tires on reboot, it's missing a piece.
Either way if the engine braking circuit is part of the problem then a dime on the throttle during a shift would correct it. Not actually applying forward pressure to increase RPM's, but just enough to remind the ECU there is a driver present.
 

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Hey guys, I tried this on my 2016, and I could tell a big difference, but it also felt like if I were going slow without much gas in 2nd or 3rd like the drivetrain was "kicking back" more. I guess this is because the engine isn't at an artificially low rpm anymore? Maybe I'm so used to this quirk that I forgot how a manual actually drives haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #237
With this change the engine will respond without the built in electronic delay function and run as a pure stick. Once in a while I will turn the mod off and I always laugh at the reduced performance.

Mark
 

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Good to know if i get a manual again.
Had a 2016 manual, never had the lag issues, never used the clutch except for 1st and reverse..
Say what now? You never used the clutch except for 1st & reverse. Ok, I'll bite, how come?
 

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Say what now? You never used the clutch except for 1st & reverse. Ok, I'll bite, how come?
My dad was a truck driver, so i was taught both ways. Shifts a touch slower unless you manually rev match, saves on clutch.

You basically let the mechanics of the car tell you when it is ready to take the shift.

Reach shift rpm, let off gas and take out of gear at the same time, hold with minimal force at the gear you want, when the rpm of the engine and the trans line up,it will slip into gear, slip shifting is one if the teams for it.
 
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