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You just can't have enough oil threads. I posted this in the other forum and decided to do it here too in case some don't go to it.

My 2012 Base with a manual transmission has a little over 19k miles on it.

I let the factory fill go to 3619 miles and had the dealership change it because they gave me one free oil change. I have always done routine maintenance on all of my cars, but I thought since it was free, I may as well let them do it. The was done in January 2012. I bought the car on October of 2011. At the time the dealership was using conventional 5-30 Shell. I wasn't crazy about them using 5-30 when the oil cap said 5-20.

I left that oil in until April of 2012. The car had 7260 miles on it at the time, so the oil had 3641 miles on it. I decided to use Pennzoil Platinum(PP) 5-20 as I have used it in a 2004 Mazda 3 HB I used to own and in a 2006 Honda Element that I still have. I have been able to get 7500 miles or so out of it on those vehicles before it starts looking like it needs to be changed. I'm too cheap to send off a sample to Blackstone. I've read plenty of oil analysis on the BobIsTheOilGuy site. On the Soul I noticed around 3500 miles that the oil had a little gas smell to it and was pretty dark. I never noticed this while using the same oil in the other cars.

I decided that if the car was going to be that hard on oil that I wasn't going to pay for synthetic. So at 10,864 I went back to the Kia dealer and had them change it again. They only charge $8.88 for an oil change (when conventional 5-30 is used). The total cost is about $15.50 after tax and fees. So the Pennzoil Platinum had 3604 miles on it when I dumped it.

I kept that oil in until 15,326, so it had 4462 miles on it. It wasn't as dark as the Pennzoil Platinum that had about 800 less miles on it. I thought maybe the PP had better cleaning additives in it and I should try it again, so I did.

I changed it again yesterday at 19,235 when the oil had 3909 miles on it. It was smelling like gas again, was dark and appeared to have lost its viscosity. I decided to go back to the dealer to do the $8.88 oil change again. When I got there, they said they can no longer do that on KIAs. KIA is making them use 5-20 now - probably due to the fuel mileage issue. This dealership uses a semi-synthetic 5-20 and the cost of the oil change with tax and fees would have been over $34. I can do a full synthetic change for that price, so I passed.

I did buy a filter and drain plug washer while I was there for $8 and change. I went across the street to Wal-Mart to get the oil. I always buy oil from them as they are MUCH cheaper than anywhere else. I could get a five quart bottle of PP for $26, where at Pep Boys or AutoZone it was about $8 or 9/qt. As much as I hate Wal-Mart, I'm not going to spend $40 or $45 on oil elsewhere when I can get it for $26 from them. I could have got conventional Pennzoil (aka PYB on BITOG) for about $14 for the 5 quart bottle or Quaker State for about a buck less. I decided to get Motorcraft 5-20 Semi-Synthetic for about $18. About five years ago this oil was around $11. Oh well. It does get great reviews on BITOG. I'll see how long it lasts.

I'm not sure why I get the gas smell in the oil. I got 36.7 mpg two tanks ago and 34.5 on the last one. I have never got less than 30 and it is usually in the 32 to 34 range. I calculate this myself. The car's mpg calculation is always 1 or 2 mpg high. Given the mpg I am getting, I don't think the engine is using excess fuel. I think it has to do with the GDI engine. Most people own the 2.0 liter version of this engine, where I have the 1.6. Maybe there is a difference between the two. I don't have any confidence in going over 4000 miles between oil changes the way it is now.
 

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my dealer uses 5w-20 semi-synthetic and get it done there all the time as in my case I have free oil changes for as long as I own the vehicle ;)
 

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We both have the same engine, the 1.6L, DFI, VVT. My dealer is doing all my oil changes for the first year or three changes, whichever comes first. They too use Shell 5W?? Blend. I'm trusting that it's 5W20. Also, they want to see my car every 3k miles for its maintenance. Nothing strange there, that's what I've been doing for the past 50 years. :) But when they are done messing with it, sometime around April or May, I'll be doing my own maintenance 100%. Like you said, Walmart has good oil at discount prices, so why buy it elsewhere? It's always a good idea to buy the genuine Kia filter w/crush washer, at a Kia dealer. Mine only charges $6 and change for a new KIA filter. There are some pretty nasty things that wind up in our motor oil that cannot be filtered out, and not being a chemist, I won't go there..... but, it's important to get those things out of the engine before they can build up to a point where they will do harm to the engine. Thus, the 3k oil change interval. That has served me well for OH these many years and I see no reason to change now. My SX4 took about five quarts of oil, so those 5QT jugs were just right. My Kia Soul takes 3.49dqts of oil, so a 5qt jug is overkill.
I actually look forward to the day when my own first oil change rolls around.... probably sometime next summer. I'm ready!


I don't think I ever had a car, where the oil filter and drain plug where both so easy to get to.


I'm ready for my first personal oil change:



Personally, I think it IS important to use a very good quality oil (non-synthetic) and then stay with the brand. I've been using nothing but Castrol GTX for the past 13 years and it has served me well.

I've also used "Prolong" anti-friction additive and that too has served me well, to the extent of saving my Suzuki Forenza engine, when I ran completely out of oil on I-75 one night, due to a loose oil filter. But that's a whole story in itself. :)

Good Luck with your Soul.
TechnoMage :cool:
 

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Nothing worse than having the dealer do an oil change and then trying to do your own the next time and not being able to budge the oil filter or the drain plug. I want to get a spigot to make draining easier!
 

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If you do enough oil changes - and I can't even tell you how much oil I've changed in the past 25 years in my garage, but it's easily in the hundreds - you'll know that you almost always smell gasoline in the oil, irrespective of the vehicle. That's where deposits accumulate, and part of those deposits are going to be vaporized gasoline, no matter how new the car is. There's no set of oil rings on the planet that are going to stop every molecule of gasoline from entering the crankcase. The other thing is there's no way you're going to read viscosity from the dipstick. You either have to bite the bullet and pay the 25 bucks to Blackstone, or you're just changing oil from the seat of your pants. Once you get past 1000 miles or so on a modern engine, I wouldn't be looking at the color to tell anything. Detergents in the oil are supposed to wash down carbon deposits, so I would expect the oil to turn black faster.
 

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You just can't have enough oil threads. I posted this in the other forum and decided to do it here too in case some don't go to it.

My 2012 Base with a manual transmission has a little over 19k miles on it. <snip>
All your concerns can only be substantiated with an oil analysis. If you frequent Bob Is The Oil Guy Forums, you should find information on where to get that done. It's been a while since I have been on there, but last I heard, the concensus was PYB (Pennz Oil Plain Yellow Bottle) what the way to go along with the plain Quaker State oil on this round of specifications.

If you are going to change your oil like you are supposed to at least every 7500 miles, synthetic probably isn't worth the money. I do my changes every 5,000 miles due to the fact that I do live in a harsh climate, but with the fact that 95% of my driving is at highway speeds, I question my own reasoning. Needless to say, I just swing through my dealerships QuickLube bay and get it done for $30 and some change with full synthetic.

One piece of advice you do need to hear is that you really should use the KIA OEM oil filters. It's all about the backflow valve and the fact that our engines have constant variable valve train that runs off the pressure from the oil system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I always use the Kia filters.

Full synthetic for around $30? Nice deal. My dealer wants $58 + tax and fees, so that would be around $64.

There is no way I would go 7500 miles between oil changes with this vehicle. I also have a 2011 Corolla. Toyota recommends 10k intervals and I have done that for the first two, since they were covered under their 2 year maintenance plan. The oil at 10k was in visually much better shape than the Soul's at 3.5K.
 

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2017 KIA Soul base, Titanium. Bought some better taars.
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I'll be getting my first three O&Fs for free at the dealer. I got my first at 3143, will get my second in 3,000 to 3,500, and ditto the third. At 10,000 the car should be reasonably well broken-in.

At that point I'll probably switch to M1.
 

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Across the board, it seems like dealers want to cover their A**es by doing the oil changes the way it's been done for the past 60+ years.
After all, they are the ones who have to stand behind one of the worlds best warranties.
I have no problem with that, since it falls within my own maintenance schedule.

I see no downside to just maintaining the heck out of a car that's going to wind up costing me $24k .
I live 20 miles from the nearest town and I definitely cannot afford downtime. Walking is not an option.

Those who have plenty of money to throw away, can maintain their cars in any sloppy way they please.
Mickey Mouse oil and 10-15k oil changes? why not! :laughonfloor

:cool:
 
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I had a busted oil plug thread from overtightening by one of the grease monkeys at a lube shop. I took the car to the dealer, and they agreed to replace the oil pan under warranty. However, while doing my own oil change recently for the first time, I noticed that the dealer had simply retapped the drain hole and used one of those thicker universal plugs. Not happy about the dealer lying to me. I'm not sure about the durability of the retapped drain, but it seems to be holding up OK for now.

The lesson learned is that you need to be careful not to over torque these aluminum pans.
 

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[Thanks for startin' the new oil change thread. I was startin' to worry!QUOTE=vol245;186197]You just can't have enough oil threads. I posted this in the other forum and decided to do it here too in case some don't go to it.

My 2012 Base with a manual transmission has a little over 19k miles on it.

I let the factory fill go to 3619 miles and had the dealership change it because they gave me one free oil change. I have always done routine maintenance on all of my cars, but I thought since it was free, I may as well let them do it. The was done in January 2012. I bought the car on October of 2011. At the time the dealership was using conventional 5-30 Shell. I wasn't crazy about them using 5-30 when the oil cap said 5-20.

I left that oil in until April of 2012. The car had 7260 miles on it at the time, so the oil had 3641 miles on it. I decided to use Pennzoil Platinum(PP) 5-20 as I have used it in a 2004 Mazda 3 HB I used to own and in a 2006 Honda Element that I still have. I have been able to get 7500 miles or so out of it on those vehicles before it starts looking like it needs to be changed. I'm too cheap to send off a sample to Blackstone. I've read plenty of oil analysis on the BobIsTheOilGuy site. On the Soul I noticed around 3500 miles that the oil had a little gas smell to it and was pretty dark. I never noticed this while using the same oil in the other cars.

I decided that if the car was going to be that hard on oil that I wasn't going to pay for synthetic. So at 10,864 I went back to the Kia dealer and had them change it again. They only charge $8.88 for an oil change (when conventional 5-30 is used). The total cost is about $15.50 after tax and fees. So the Pennzoil Platinum had 3604 miles on it when I dumped it.

I kept that oil in until 15,326, so it had 4462 miles on it. It wasn't as dark as the Pennzoil Platinum that had about 800 less miles on it. I thought maybe the PP had better cleaning additives in it and I should try it again, so I did.

I changed it again yesterday at 19,235 when the oil had 3909 miles on it. It was smelling like gas again, was dark and appeared to have lost its viscosity. I decided to go back to the dealer to do the $8.88 oil change again. When I got there, they said they can no longer do that on KIAs. KIA is making them use 5-20 now - probably due to the fuel mileage issue. This dealership uses a semi-synthetic 5-20 and the cost of the oil change with tax and fees would have been over $34. I can do a full synthetic change for that price, so I passed.

I did buy a filter and drain plug washer while I was there for $8 and change. I went across the street to Wal-Mart to get the oil. I always buy oil from them as they are MUCH cheaper than anywhere else. I could get a five quart bottle of PP for $26, where at Pep Boys or AutoZone it was about $8 or 9/qt. As much as I hate Wal-Mart, I'm not going to spend $40 or $45 on oil elsewhere when I can get it for $26 from them. I could have got conventional Pennzoil (aka PYB on BITOG) for about $14 for the 5 quart bottle or Quaker State for about a buck less. I decided to get Motorcraft 5-20 Semi-Synthetic for about $18. About five years ago this oil was around $11. Oh well. It does get great reviews on BITOG. I'll see how long it lasts.

I'm not sure why I get the gas smell in the oil. I got 36.7 mpg two tanks ago and 34.5 on the last one. I have never got less than 30 and it is usually in the 32 to 34 range. I calculate this myself. The car's mpg calculation is always 1 or 2 mpg high. Given the mpg I am getting, I don't think the engine is using excess fuel. I think it has to do with the GDI engine. Most people own the 2.0 liter version of this engine, where I have the 1.6. Maybe there is a difference between the two. I don't have any confidence in going over 4000 miles between oil changes the way it is now.[/QUOTE]
 

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You are absolutely correct. There simply cannot ever be enough oil change threads. Ever. There's not anywhere near enough info about that subject on this site. Sorry Wagner. Couldn't help it! :cool:
 

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You are absolutely correct. There simply cannot ever be enough oil change threads. Ever. There's not anywhere near enough info about that subject on this site. Sorry Wagner. Couldn't help it! :cool:
Yup, it's even more important, when people refuse to RTFM!

Just sayin' .......
 
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so basically their is no consensus on the question of what mileage, what oil... guess I won't start another thread about it... I was told by the dealer to do 3500 miles
I live in Florida and drive mostly blend of city-highway. guess that works...
 

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The dealer has to stand behind Kia's fabulous warranty, so they want your car to last as long as possible.
It's not only to their benefit, but to yours as well. Eh?

So if they tell you to change oil every 3500 miles, why not just do it?
It's the cheapest insurance against engine failure that you can buy.

For about 25 years I drove cars, vans, wagons, etc., for the companies I worked for.
Those were mostly Leased cars.
The leasing companies demanded that we change the oil and filters every 3k miles.
I always did the same thing with my own cars, vans, etc.

In all those years and all those miles, I never had a catastrophic engine failure.

Happy Motoring!
TM :cool:
PS: If you're ever in the neighborhood, stop by for a cold one!
 
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So if they tell you to change oil every 3500 miles, why not just do it?
It's the cheapest insurance against engine failure that you can buy.
Because you're just lining the dealers pocketbook by changing it twice as often as Kia recommends? If the dealer told you to change it every 1,000 miles, would you do that too? Most dealership service departments are nothing more than a brood of vipers out to extract every last dollar from your wallet.
 

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I'm not lining anyone's pockets. My oil changes for the first year are FREE.
What don't you understand about....FREE?


READ: Page 7-21 of the 2013 Kia Soul Owners Manual.

Yes, it's 3750 miles for an oil and filter change, not 3500. Apologies!

But it's your prerogative, if you want to cause a big rhubarb over 250 miles.

By railing against just doing what the Owners Manual tells you to do, you're only doing harm to those who don't know any better and come here for guidance in caring for their cars. If you have personal ideas that are in argument with the Owners Manual, you really should keep them to yourself.

:cool:
 
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