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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

So I have a 2014 2.0L and 1 rod bearing went on it. $6000 through dealership and my CPO warranty won't cover it because I do Uber/Lyft and they have a lovely exclusion in there of "Carriage of passengers for hire". F%^$...

So I decided to get new bearings/bolts and replace them. This weekend I got it all setup and back together this afternoon and when I started it up I have no oil being drawn from the pump, oil light is on. I let it run for maybe 4 second and shut it down. I sat there for a minute wondering why. No idea... the pump was working fine for oil pressure when the bearing went bad. I went over everything in my head and everything was put back together correctly. I started it again and still nothing for 4- seconds.

I pulled the oil filter and NOTHING. Bone dry. So my question now... is there a way to prep/prime the oil pump? I don't believe it needs it, and the manual says nothing about doing so.

The gist of what I did was that I removed the oil pan, then the rod bolts to pull the bearings. I did not remove the oil pickup tube, didn't damage anything during the process, etc. I'm thinking the oil pump is bad but I can't pull the motor out.

IS THERE ANYWAY TO HELP THAT PUMP OUT? I feel like there is no hope but maybe there is something i can try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I called my dealership that has been in the thick of this with me and they said there is no method needed to prep /prime the pump. I Also asked if I somehow might have covered up a oil hole when putting on the gasket/oil pan and they said no.

My thought yesterday was to pressurize the inner engine through the dipstick hole. Not likely but an interesting thought. I would have to cover the EGR valve hole and maybe some others.... I don't know. It is my only thought for what may help help push the oil up into the pump.

So my options are to try the pressurization, pull the motor to replace the oil pump, pull the motor and buy a used motor, or have the dealership rebuild. All of those are in order from lowest cost to highest... and I have not the money or time for any of them.

Not sure if I can get my warranty to change their minds but I already tried for 3 weeks with the backing of the finance and CPO salesman behind me. Warranty "JM&A" won't budge.
 

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2014 Titanium Stick Shift Pacific NW
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FWIW gewick:

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice info... maybe I should fill the entire engine up with oil so it doesn't need to prime it! Just joking of course. I hate this so much...

Do you think that filling the filter up with oil would change anything? I just don't want to keep trying this and not getting oil pressure!
 

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You could always cover the valves with oil before starting to at least give them some lubrication whole you're cranking it. I've always filled the oil filter because there's less air to pull/push with the pump. I know theure saying you're not supposed to but that's the way everyone has done it for 100 years.
 

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I agree with Joe. It's just common sense to "prime the pump." People have done it with all sorts of pumps for 100s of years.

And yes, fill the oil filter too. At this point, you don't have anything to lose and everything to gain if it gets this baby running again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I replaced the bad bearing and then the others along with it. Also all of the rod bolts. Didn't remove anything else.

The car sat for a few weeks with no changes, then I pulled the oil pan and bearings, waited a week and a half, reinstalled the bearings. Then I replaced the oil filter, put in new oil and tried starting it all in about a 2 hour window.

I had cranked the motor several times while the oil pan was off, and quite a bit of oil did drip from the rear left corner over the course of that week. Not sure where it came from but there is a little notch where the side cover and the block meet. Maybe that was coming from the chain tension/lub system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You mean the main crank bearings? If so then no I did not touch those. I also made sure the rod bearings didn't have oil holes before messing that up. I was thinking it could technically be the filter but I didn't have my original one to prove that out. Wish I did just for piece of mind. I pushed on the O-ring inside the new filter and it is working as intended so I'm 99% sure it isn't the new filter.

Last night I tried pressurizing via the dipstick hole and there is no building pressure which I already assumed. I pulled the EGR hose and capped the outlet, same deal. Pressure is escaping somewhere else and I just called that quits right there. Not worth the time.

I then pulled the filter and filled it up and reinstalled. I started it with no luck again and quickly shut it down. I had it towed to the dealership and they are going to teardown to be sure about head/valves and then order a shortblock with the rest needed.

Oh well... sucks hardcore but I worked out a plan to pay for the work so I guess I will have to live with it. I'll get a fresh shortblock with 0 miles, a slight 12/12 warranty, and that will also take care of my piston ring oil burn as well. Each plug is black so I assume it is rings and not valve related.
 

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Dang, sorry it didn't start up gewick.

At least you have a plan to get it fixed & gave it a great effort. I admire your pluck.
 
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