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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2010 kia soul. And am having problems with the engine cutting out, rough idle, have replaced nearly all the sensors and fuel filters, fuel filter checked no issues, fuel pressure showing fine when revving, thought had fixed the problem and then again the car cut out as I went to get on the motorway, any one with any ideas greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi there
I've replaced the fuel filter, temp sensor, maf sensor, cam shaft sensor and the crankshaft sensor, fuel pressure sensor, only had 2 codes, 1 was the fuel filter, that's why we changed that, 2nd was fuel pressure which is why we replaced the the fuel pressure sensor, broke down on motorway today, lost all power, started again then lost all power again, had car picked up, wouldnt start to go on the ramp, got car home it started, but management light had gone out, had no power barely reversed it in to car space, then turned car off and on and power was fine again
 

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Stopped up converter? Does it run good when engine is cold, then run rough when warmed up? If so, stopped up converter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have had the fuel pump checked and no issues, had a fault with it 3 years before and had everything cleaned out, it runs fine when cold, issues start when it gets warm, isn't giving any codes so is being a pain to diagnose, when it cut out yesterday, it was able to start fine when I got it back to the house, I had trouble parking it due to lack of power, but when I turned off and started again 20 seconds later, was no trouble at all
 

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1,2 & 3. What is the conditon of both + & - battery cables at the battery and - cable to the frame?

4. What is battery voltage, key off?

5. What is battery voltage, key on?

6. What is battery voltage, at idle?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi

I will be checking the battery when I get in, would the battery cause issues to extend of causing rough idling and other engine issues
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I've plugged a obd scanner in the car today, it comes up with p1136, fuel pressure, and 02 oxygen sensor, the fuel pressure is fine as have checked that, so it's looking like maybe looking at the 02 sensor
 

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...would the battery cause issues to extend of causing rough idling and other engine issues
Yes

Reduced voltage/voltage drop from poor connection can cause many issues

The problems in this Sportster thread were due to a poor chassis/harness ground. The internal threads in the trans were corroded, reducing circuit voltage.

 

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That coded does not sound right for that year. Have it scanned at your local auto parts store to be sure. What engine do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Code should have said p1186, battery voltage was showing fine, but I'm going to take it out later with the reader in and see what it reads
 

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Are you getting two codes?

From autocodes

P0137 KIA Possible Causes
Faulty Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1
Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 harness is open or shorted
Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 circuit poor electrical connection
Inappropriate fuel pressure
Faulty fuel injectors
Intake air leaks may be faulty
Exhaust gas leaks

Read more: P0137 Kia - O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2

What voltages did you measure ("fine" is not a voltage :))?

Where did you measure?
 

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BTW, I am NOT asserting that your issue(s) are necessarily voltage related, but fully checking voltages is a significant step in elimination of possible issues.

When measuring voltage at the fuel pump, also check resistance from pump ground to battery negative post. I would expect it to be <0.5 ohm. Ideal would be <0.2 ohm.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm only getting the 1 code says fuel pressure low, 02 heater sensor shorted, I've plugged it in to a obd scanner, and it showing as the voltage is getting too high, over 1.25 when it shouldn't get above 0.9 you can also see from the graph that the voltages are very wild,
 

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Voltage too high could be from voltage regulator failure.

Back to questions in post 7. This was compiled for H-D Sportsters, but other than stator reference, should all be applicable.

1. KEY OFF battery voltage, at the battery: Normal is 12.8, acceptable is 12.6 (standard lead acid battery, not AGM) to 12.8 for no load. If just taken off a charger, voltage may be 13 point something. The battery needs to sit for a while before a reading is useful. In the case of a bad cell, the other cells overcharge and give an almost normal reading, until load is applied.
• If lower, then battery is discharged and needs charging or
• Battery has a bad cell

2. KEY ON battery voltage (headlight on): Normal is not under about 12.5 initially, but will decline the longer that the headlight is on, without the motor running. Under no load, 12.5 volts indicates 50% discharge, but under load, it is just voltage drop.
• If lower, then battery is discharged and needs charging or
• Battery has a bad cell or
• Battery cable(s) have high resistance

3. KEY ON battery voltage while cranking: Normal is not under 10.5 volts
• If lower, then battery is discharged and needs charging or
• Battery has a bad cell or
• Battery cable(s) have high resistance or
• Starter is drawing too much current

4. If the bike is running, battery voltage at about 2,500 RPMs should be 13.8 to 14.8
• If not, then check stator resistance and regulator ground
• If the stator is not shorted to ground and resistance is within spec, the regulator or regulator ground is suspect
 
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