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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi All, About to start a large endeavor on my Soul. I am planning out an entire fully integrated entertainment system. The main head unit will be a Kenwood DNX9980HD. This unit is at least a couple years old now. But it offers the ability to do things that you cannot do on most if not all head units anymore. I will post updates as things progress just as I did with my rim powder coating.

While planning the system, I have hit the first roadblock. I have purchased the Metra 70-7303 Kia Soul Wiring Harness. Unfortunately Metra decided that no one would ever attempt anything but a basic installation and left all of the wires out of the C-Plug connector except one. I called Metra to get the size of the male pin, so I can order some online. Of course they said they don't know....
I cannot believe I will be the first that does not want to cut or tap into his harness. So is there anyone that can tell me the size of those male pins?
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. It is the red plug I need pins for. After some research I have found that it uses a standard blade size of 1.5mm. The length of the pin is 22.5mm. I am still searching, all I can find are pins that are much longer.


 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok, Metra harness with new pins and wire added. Now the red C-Plug can retain the use of the Factory Cell Phone Microphone, Factory USB, Factory Audio Input Jack & Steering Wheel Control leads.
I am listing links to the pins I used and the crimping tool.

Here is the link to the pins that fit best: http://www.mouser.co...y538-19417-0048
The blade was a little longer and thicker but worked fine fitting into the KIA plug. The problem was the height from top to bottom, I had to file the top body of the pin so that the blade was in the middle of the body when looking at the pin from the side. Once the filing was done the pin went in tight and stays put.

Here is the link to the crimping tool: http://www.amazon.co...=I33O6KJYMQX3CY
This crimp tool crimps the insulated and non insunlated parts of the terminal at the same time. It is a little trickier to use than one that crimps one area of the pin at a time.
As of today the crimping tool shows out of stock, but if you search the name on Ebay you will see lots of them for sale. They will cost you $20 to $26.









Onto the next problem......

Since Kenwood decided to supply a TV Input on the DNX9980HD, but never came out with a ATSC tuner I will have to use another brand and make it work. After reading many reviews I decided to go with a BOYO MHC Digital TV Tuner with ATSC and ATSCM.
Now the easy way is to use one of the DNX9980HD A/V Inputs and then use the ATSC tuners remote control to operate it. But I would like to go a few steps further. I want to use the TV Tuner input on the back of the DNX9980HD and possibly retain some touch screen functionality.
I contacted Kenwood even though I knew they would be no help with the pinouts on the TV Input. To no surprise they denied me the information. I have been searching everywhere trying to see if I can purchase a service manual that will give me what I need. But so far nothing.

Here is the good part...... While doing all this searching, I discovered that this has been done before. I have come across a company in Russia named Carformer Laboratory. They introduced and sold such an adapter back when the DNX9980HD came out. Apparently for a while they had a distribution office in the U.S.A. that has since gone away while the Russia office is still there.. I have contacted them in Russia and we are set to message each other over Skype tomorrow hopefully. I am including a picture of their adapter and a link to their web site here: http://carformer-lab.com/
They still list the adapter as available, hopefully it is and I can get it from Russia.

If for some reason I cannot get it from them I still want to accomplish this. My first step would be to locate a DNX9980HD Service manual or the pin designations for the TV Tuner input. Does anyone here know where I can find that info? That is what I need to get started.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just to make sure the Carformer adapter will work properly, I am capturing the ATSC M/H TV Tuner IR commands and forwarding the IR Command files to Carformer. Once they have them they will program the adapter. The adapter will make the TV icon show up in the DNX9980HD menu and utilize the TV Tuner input as well as give me some functionality of the touch screen to control the ATSC M/H Tuner. At a minimum I will be able to Channel Up & Down, Access the Electronic Program Guide and Exit back to the main DNX9980HD Menu. Since I have had TV Tuners in my vehicles before... That is all I ended up using once I did all the settings in the tuner. So even if I end up with just the minimum touch screen access, I would be happy. I am getting the IR Command learning gear set up and installing the software.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, Capturing the IR Codes from the Boyo TV Tuner Remote was not that easy. I think I got them correctly. Just about to do some more testing before sending them off to Russia.
Also testing different antennas to see which gives better reception. So far an antenna that looks like an old fashioned roof mount cellular antenna gives a much better signal than some of the amplified ATSC Car antennas. Ok, back to testing will post more soon.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Been a long time since my last post. I have spent all this time working with the guys at Carformer in Russia. They completed the adapter for me and I am now awaiting my PayPal invoice from them. I have just started the installation of the system. I will add some pictures in the next few days. That TV Tuner Adapter was one pain in the ass to get done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I started the install. I began in the back and took out all the panels and everything in the trunk area. I unplugged the factory amp and looked at the plugs. I had some old Metra harnesses from other installs and one had pins that were the same size. I removed the pins and plugged them directly into the amplifier plugs. I am only using the front and rear Kia Speaker wires. The sub and center channel will run from those speakers directly to the amps. After years of doing professional installs I have never seen that running better larger speaker wire into the doors made a difference in sound. After I got the harness done, I cut one of those Swimming Pool Fun Noodles down and sliced into the side. I wrapped it around my harness connections and wedged it in next to the amplifier. I always use those noodles to make sure nothing is going to rattle or vibrate. Here are some pics.

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Here are the Kia Factory Wiring Diagrams I am using. These have been posted before, but I figure it will help some people reading this thread. On the amplifier wiring diagram it lists the tweeters as being wired separately.... That is incorrect. They actually run off the front speaker leads.







Next I installed the Sub Woofer Box. I am using a JL Audio Stealth Box with 12" Woofer for the Kia Soul. I went with this box instead of building my own for a few reasons. One, living here in South Florida, I am very familiar with the people at JL Audio. They have always made incredible products and are one of the few companies left that talks in real specifications and takes pride in their products. Most car audio companies these days inflate every spec to ridiculous claims. Second, I probably could have saved a few bucks building my own, but time is worth lots more to me and I knew this would be a great box. The install was straight forward and easy. You have to drill three 1/2" holes through the trunk floor to mount the box. They give you wax pads to stick in the trunk, then you put the box in and press it down, Take out the box and it left impressions in the wax pads where you need to drill the holes. The holes lined up perfectly after drilling. I used some Enamel Rust Proofing Paint around the holes.
Pic #1 shows the box Mounted. Then you screw down a round piece of wood for the tire to lay on. It is covered in the same fabric as the box. Pic #2 shows the box and spare tire installed. Once covered everything looks factory. Once installed I hit another road block... The spot on the box to mount an amplifier is kind of small. The 5 channel amp I have will not fit there. I have decided to mount the 5 channel amp under the drivers seat and the small mono center channel amp under the passenger seat. Here are some pics of the box installed.



 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Now time to install the back up camera. I had already installed Back Up Parking Sensors, but wanted to add a camera. I ordered a few to test them out in low light to see which worked best. The one that goes in the license plate light location was the worst followed by one that looked like a knock off of the Factory Kia Camera. The smallest camera worked the best. I bought it on Ebay for $15.00. Here is a pic:

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I held the camera in various locations on the back of the Soul while looking at a monitor. I liked the location right above rear windshield washer spray nozzle in the spoiler.
This was a time consuming place to mount the camera. To remove the spoiler you open the hatch and locate four large rubber grommets along the top. Once removed you take off the four bolts. It is easier to work if you remove the brake light. Next you need some fishing line and a couple of key rings. Take a 1 to 2 foot piece of fishing line and attach a key ring at each end. Work the fishing line under the edge of the spoiler and move the rings back and forth to break free the spoiler. It is stuck there with 3M automotive tape. Once you get the spoiler off you need to clean off all the tape and adhesive. You will also need a new roll of tape to put the spoiler back on.
Put a piece of masking tape over the spot you want to drill your hole. Since the spoiler is not metal, no rustproofing required. Now you need to drill the second hole under the spoiler for the wires to pass through. And now you need to drill a third hole into the top of hatch door. I drilled it to the right of the second spoiler mounting hole as seen in the photo.

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Next rustproof the hole! Then, I taped the camera to the spoiler and ran the wires through the holes. Everything lined up. I put a large bead of outdoor silicone around the hole on the hatch. I then put the spoiler back on and bolted it down. The silicone was compressed between the hatch and spoiler making sure no water will get in.
Once mounted, the wires can be seen coming out of the opening for the third brake light.



Here is a pic of the camera mounted. It is very small

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And last here is a pic of the screen while adjusting the camera.

 

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You're a very busy man. I have nothing to add to this thread, but I wanted to let you know that I think you are making fantastic progress. All the wiring and research you have done is really paying off. The install looks great so far. I really like the rear camera. It looks great mounted there, and it seems to me that it shows more than my factory one.
Also, I really appreciate the way you have been updating the thread with all your info, in the event that someone else wants to do this stuff.

Anyway, great job and thanks for sharing your info and research.
 

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I think it is fantastic you are willing to share all the information and hard work. Great job. It looks awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks, I hope this thread will help some people.

Alright, ran the wires from the rear amp harness and sub woofer under the drivers seat. Then I ran a true AWG 4 Gauge wire under the seat. Finding a place to drill into the engine compartment was easy. Since My Soul is an automatic there is a cut out in the foam where the clutch pedal is in a manual model. Pull out the foam cut out and drill.. I put the foam back in place with a dab of contact cement. Then I ran my audio cables from the dash. I took the console out to make running all cables easier. I am using an MTX 5 Channel Amp that I had from another install. Finished pic of amp all wired under drivers seat.

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Next I ran all the wires under the passenger seat for the mono center channel amp. I am not sure if I will like this little amp. I will try it and see how it is. It is from a Pyle Center Channel Amp Kit.

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I replaced the factory center channel speaker with a Kicker 4" I have had for years and never used. This is from back when Kicker made great speakers in the U.S.A. I used a dremel to enlarge the hole. You could fit a much larger speaker , there is plenty of room. I am using quite a bit of stuff I already have and after I am done I will adjust the system and see what sounds great and what needs to be upgraded. Also you can see the GPS Antenna behind the speaker.

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
This is the back of the Kenwood DNX 9980HD... There is a lot going on there....lol



Starting at the top left. First is the Michrophone Jack. I will use the stock Kia Soul Michrophone in the ceiling using the harness I made. Next is the GPS Antenna Plug, Then a Mini USB plug, I will connect a Mini Usb cable and run it down to hide behind the passenger side center console front panel. This mini USB is used to update the Garmin NAV software as well as to get into other things inside the radio software. That console panel removes easily without tools and I can plug in a Laptop to make my changes. Ok, next row down on the left is the pre-amp audio output plug, then the EXT I/F plug... this where the cable will plug n from my Sirius Connect Dock. It will allow my Sirius Radio to be controlled by the head unit. The Green PTT jack is for the Voice Command switch, The black audio jack will utilize the factory stereo jack of the Kia Soul. I am not using the yellow video jack. The Power / Speaker harness finishes that row. Bottom Row starting at left: TV tuner input, I will use this when I get the adapter from Russia, then I can control the TV Tuner from the Touch Screen. Next , the 4 pin plug is used to control external relays for other functions and last the Audio/Video Input/Outputs: This is where I will get the outputs for an overhead rear monitor as well as I will plug the TV Tuner into video 1 until I receive the adapter. There are also some cables coming off the back of the head unit. The FM Antenna and two USB cables. One USB will be attached to the the Kia Factory USB plug and the other I will add into the glove box. Also since this unit has Bluetooth, I will be using a Garmin ecoRoute with the navigation to view and import data from the car's computer.
And we begin:
Here is the Sirius Dock and USB Input 2 installed in the Glove Box top shelf. The Sirius can easily be removed and plugged into the home dock as well as the Sirius Boom Box. As seen in the photo, I have not yet removed the protective plastic sheet from the front of the radio.



Here it is with the Sirius removed: The USB jack sits just to the left.



I installed the Voice command switch hidden up under the steering wheel column. It is directly in front of the up/down adjustment lever. It is very easy to get at without being seen in the vehicle or the need to drill a hole.





I will be using an idatalink Maestro to control the radio using the factory steering wheel controls. I have used many steering wheel controls over the years and this is by far the best and easy to use controller.....ever.. It is USB programmable and pretty much programs itself after some basic questions are answered on the web site. It is a little more expensive than other steering wheel controllers, but is definitely the way to go. Here is the web site: iDatalink - Maestro - Home
These are the instructions for a KIA Soul with a Kenwood Radio that the idatalink web site provided after I entered Car Make, Model...etc...



I will mount this unit in the same lower front console area as the Mini USB in case I want to reprogram it later. You can add Double push commands to do other things.

Here it is wired in along with the Mini USB/USB Cable:



Since there is plenty of room behind the carpet where I am putting the Maestro and USB cable... I will also install the Boyo ATSC - ATSC M/H TV Tuner there. I have purchased Two other amplified antennas to test along with the antenna that comes with the TV Tuner and I want easy access to this unit.

Here it is all wired up:



Since this is not a Kenwood TV Tuner and I will only have limited touch Screen capability once I receive the Carformer Adapter.. I need to be able to use the IR Remote that came with the TV Tuner. It came with a small IR receiver that plugs into the Tuner through a 3.5mm stereo plug. The IR receiver box was large and ugly looking. It included an led in the box so you can see that the Tuner has excepted the IR commands. I did not want to see this thing mounted anywhere in my car or drill any type of hole to mount it. I opened up the small IR box and found a tiny circuit board with the IR Reciever, LED and a few other components attached. I de-soldered the IR receiver and LED. Then I attached them to a strip of very small gauge 4 conductor wire to make the LED and IR receiver assembly as small as possible. Then I scouted the interior of the car for the best possible place to mount it. I found the perfect place!!! Just above the climate controls is a small indicator lamp for the air bag. This goes on/off to tell you when someone sitting in the passenger seat has activated the air bag to work in the event of an accident. The indicator lamp has the word OFF to warn you that the airbag will not be working if an accident occurs. I took apart the Climate Control housing and pulled off the OFF lens and saved it to put back on when I put the car back to stock condition. I then took a piece of infrared lens and cut it to fit into the spot the OFF lens was mounted. I installed the IR receiver and LED in from the rear. You can see in the following picture that you cannot even tell I did the mod. Also, the stock airbag warning LED sits back far enough that it is well behind the IR Receiver and LED that I installed. The remote works perfectly with them installed in this location and I can see the IR Led confirming the remote commands. As far as the airbag LED, when it comes on it makes a very faint glow because it is behind the IR receiver and IR LED. So you can see the alert easily, but it is not bright enough to be bothersome even at night. ( I checked..lol )



Here is the Tuner, You can see the IR Receiver box in the photo. You can also see the Antenna and Antenna Mount. It looks like a small old fashioned Cellular Phone Antenna with a Magnetic Mount. I definitely do not want that antenna showing anywhere on my car.......

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Ok, Continuing with the TV Antennas.... The Small Cellular Style antenna performed ok, but I am not putting this on the out side of my car, first it is a magnetic mount and second it will look like crap. Next I tried the a flat amplified antenna This one is clear with large metallic rings embedded into the plastic. It was a huge difference! It gave me great reception and I could hide it in the car or mount it to the glass. The last was a similar style flat amplified antenna, it was much smaller and black. I looked closely at it and saw it was a fractal antenna. I had been reading about antennas online and it seems Fractal antennas are what is in your cell phone to get rid of the stick antennas they used to use. Despite it's small size it worked the best. It was marginally better than the other flat amplified antenna. I have it tucked under the headliner in front of the driver along the windshield. As far as reception of Mobile ATSC Stations, it seems I am just outside the broadcast area when I am at my house. The amplified antennas pull in the signal, but it is to low to show a picture. Regular ATSC looks great as long as you are not moving, which is inherent in that type of signal. Hopefully the roll out of broadcasters including the ATSC M/H signal will speed up over the next year.
Here are the two amplified antennas. I have ordered a second unit of the black antenna to try a dual system for improved reception. I will post how that works out.









Next I started on the rear monitor. Nothing fancy, just a 10" LCD. No DVD Player. I wanted it as thin as possible, this one is only 1.5" thick. This model was really cheap and I am sure it is not a top of the line monitor. My feeling was that I am not sure about the mounting in the Soul, especially since I have the sun roof. I figured if this can be installed and if we make good use of it, I can always buy a more expensive monitor and slap it right in. Now let me say that I have installed overhead monitors before and after inspecting the Soul Mounting options it is not the best for this install. Once I removed the interior dome light and all panels ans handles on the drivers side, I ran the Power and video cable to the pillar between the doors. At That spot there is a small space between the upper air bags. You definitely want to stay away from those. I used a coat hanger and inserted it through the dome light opening. It came out where I wanted. There is what looks like large corrugated plastic in the headliner with openings that run across the roof. The hanger slid right down one of these channels pretty easily. I could not get photos because it was a pretty tight squeeze just getting my fingers under the headliner. Here are the wires poking out.



Then I needed to put a piece of wood in the headliner to gain more mounting points and stability. I bought a 5.5" wide 1/4" thick 3' long piece of oak at Home Depot.
I forgot to take a pic before inserting the wood into the headliner, here is the wood that I used, it was 5 or 6 dollars.


To the rear of the dome light opening is a thick foam strip. you will need to remove this. I cut a 10.5" piece off and attached a foam strip on the wood at the same point the other foam was. I inserted it into the dome light opening and slid it to the rear of the Soul. I lined up the two mounting holes for the dome light and shifted the wood over to the passenger side so my wiring has room to get into the headliner. I used two 8mm bolts that were 1/4" longer than the stock bolts to mount the wood and make up for the extra thickness. I then attached the mounting bracket to the wood. Unfortunately I was unhappy with the stability of our Soul's roof. It is very thin and flexes easily. I had no choice but to put some screws though the headliner into the piece of wood that was positioned to the rear of the dome light. While driving the monitor would have been bouncing around to much. Now it was time to do the
wiring and attach the monitor to the bracket. Now here is the best tip I can give you, when installing the monitor it is difficult to hold up the monitor while attaching the wires and get them all tucked in to the dome light opening and then mount the Monitor. Sometimes two peoples hands are just not enough. Before you start the wiring check the size of the screws that attach the monitor to the mounting bracket. In this case they were 5mm. Then get some really long screws of thread size and attach the monitor to the mounting bracket. That will hold the monitor up very high, but still give you room to work. When you are ready, just push the monitor up on the screws and replace each one with the proper mounting screw and the monitor will go in very easily. In this photo you can see the wood, mounting bracket, long screws holding up the monitor and wiring.



I also rewired the built in dome lights to attach to the factory wiring instead of the on/off switch on the rear of the monitor. It was very simple your Dome Light has three wires the Red is 12 Volts and the Blue is the ground for opening and closing the door. Those are the two you want to use. The last Black wire that you do not use is a constant ground that leaves the lights on all the time. The monitor had the dome light wires sitting in the open. I just cut them off the switch.


Here it is mounted:



 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Oops, Found the pic of the 4AWG wire passing through the fire wall. I should have posted this much earlier in this thread, but here it is:



On to the Garmin ecoRoute. This interacts with the Garmin GPS in the Kenwood Radio. It hooks up to your OBD2 Diagnostic port under the dash on the drivers side. This is the plug where the dealership plugs in to get information on diagnosing problems, doing updates, etc.. It connects to the Kenwood radio through Bluetooth. Any of you with Kenwood radios that would like to add this feature can use the official Garmin ecoRoute Module. Buying the Kenwood ecoRoute module only means you will pay much more the exact same thing. And I mean exact. The only difference is the box it comes in.


Because of the location of the Soul OBD2 port I purchased a righ angle OBD2 extention cable. This allowed me to mount the ecoRoute easily and keep the unit from being seen in the car. I tie wrapped the unit to the cross brace in the photo, it fit perfectly and you can see the right angle plug I will insert one attaching the panel to the dash.



I tested the ecoroute to make sure it was working. Here is a pic. Those gauges can be changed to show a wide variety of information and another screen for showing any check engine codes that come up. This is a pretty cool unit. I will have to read more about what it can do.




Ok, so now I am going to spend some time fine tuning the audio. Once I do some listening and adjust gains and crossover points, I will decide if the factory front and rear speakers will make the cut or need to be replaced. I am also waiting on the Carformer adapter so I can use the touch screen of the radio to control the TV Tuner. I will be back to post on how everything goes.
 

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Great stuff! I would have given up at step one! When are you available to work on my Soul?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have to say... The Pyle Center Amplifier actually sounds good. It is part of a kit Pyle sells that includes a speaker. You can see it here on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B0007LCKL4
I have been adjusting and listening all day and I think I am leaving the factory speakers in for now. Once they were crossed over and adjusted they sounded really good. I am sure some aftermarket speakers would sound better, but how much better and at what price? So for now I will just use what is there.
 

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Awesome looking setup you've got going there! I had a few questions since you seem to have a great grasp on everything...

I'm looking to install an aftermarket headunit (Most likely the Parrot Asteroid Smart) in my 2013 Soul. I'll also be adding an Infinity Basslink down the road (I just want a little extra thump, nothing too crazy).

Anyways - I've gotten almost everything planned out. I found this OEM Retention cable for the stock USB/AUX ports from Metra. With that I should be able to keep everything but the stock Mic, I have yet to find an adapter/harness that allows me to keep the mic.

I see you have made one up yourself, how difficult would this be? Since I can use the Metra one for USB/AUX, I could just add the Mic leads only to the "C" harness? The links you have for the pins you used is broken...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Awesome looking setup you've got going there! I had a few questions since you seem to have a great grasp on everything...

I'm looking to install an aftermarket headunit (Most likely the Parrot Asteroid Smart) in my 2013 Soul. I'll also be adding an Infinity Basslink down the road (I just want a little extra thump, nothing too crazy).

Anyways - I've gotten almost everything planned out. I found this OEM Retention cable for the stock USB/AUX ports from Metra. With that I should be able to keep everything but the stock Mic, I have yet to find an adapter/harness that allows me to keep the mic.

I see you have made one up yourself, how difficult would this be? Since I can use the Metra one for USB/AUX, I could just add the Mic leads only to the "C" harness? The links you have for the pins you used is broken...
Yes you could use that adapter from Metra. I have also seen it really cheap on Ebay from other manufacturers. You would also need a 3.5" Stero mini plug to RCA. Then you could plug into the input on the Parrot Unit. As for the factory Microphone, you have two ways to access the wires in the plug. One is to use pins like I did or the second is to use 3M T-Taps. You would need a 3.5" Mono Mini Plug to plug into the Parrot Unit. I used a cheap 3/5" mini Plug Microphone cable and cut a 1 foot piece from the end. I stripped it and soldered the ends because the wires are pretty thin in those cables and soldering will provide some strength. I am not that familiar with the Parrot Unit, but I see in a photo a picture of a steering wheel on the back of the unit. So I guess you can use the steering wheel controls in some way. The same plug with the Microphone leads has the steering wheel control wires. Again you can just use T-Taps without cutting the harness. I will try and find a new link for the pins. If you decide to use pins, I would not bother with the plug. Getting the pins to fit correctly in the plug was a big hassle. I would just use the same method I used on the amplifier harness you see in the above photos.
 
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