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Discussion Starter #1
So my 2011 souls been creaking and squeaking and ive found its the passenger front joint.
Im just going to buy the entire control arm assembly instead of trying to press in new ones.

Anybody ever done a control arm before? Do I need to just unbolt things or does the axle nut need to come off etc...
Looked for a DIY guide on here but didnt see one.

Any tips would be appreciated
 

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The procedure is not that complicated, but takes time on driveway. I have bought an impact drill from Harbor Freight, helps sooo much!
I would suggest getting replacing also the front struts - on my 2011 were making noises too. I used the more expensive packaged KYB struts+coils instead of trying to disassembly the existing ones.

This looks to be a good video of how to replace LCA:
 

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Kia Soul 2015 2.0 litre EX GDI Alien Green II Pearl
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I have done this on an off-road 4X4 Nissan Xterra but not the 2015 Kia Soul. I expect to do the Kia Soul front end in about 5 to 10 years time.

Pressing in new bearings is not worth it. Unbolting and possibly seized nuts and/or bolts are definitely in your future. Generous applications of penetrating oil might come in handy. With patience and the right tools, it is all doable. In addition to a battery-powered impact wrench, a breaker bar and a torque wrench will prove useful.

2011. Kilometres/miles driven? I would look hard at replacing other front end wear parts while there, e.g., wheel bearings, tie rod ends, etc. Depending on the distance age of the vehicle, preemptively switching out some of those parts might be smart, safe and cost effective.

As new parts are installed, generously use anti-seize. The anti-seize protects bolts/nuts from corrosion and make it easier to get back in there for any future modifications/repairs.

Another tip: Shop parts carefully. Aftermarket parts can be either better or less expensive but sometimes, original equipment (OE) parts are recommended. Do not skimp on parts to just save money. The USA is one of the best places in the entire world to buy online auto parts. Figure out the part you want and then look for the best deal.

Rockauto.com is a terrific discount parts provider with great service. There are many others out there, including at least one specialized in Kia Soul parts.

Do this right, you will have a safe, comfortable ride and a vehicle that will last many years more saving you lots of money.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I order new kia oem control arms and stabilizer links for both sides front. Ends up costing less and dont have to press bushings in.

I watched one YouTube video where mechanic said you should take the axle nut off to give some play and you don't have to worry about pulling cv out or something and making a new nightmare to fix.
 

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you should take the axle nut off to give some play
That's not needed here. Plus the axle nuts are single-use only, you can't put the same one back.
generously use anti-seize
On items that are torqued to value that's a bad idea. First of all, those torque values are for dry friction. Making the thread surface slippery, for the same applied torque, you end up with more longitudinal stress on the bolt.
Also, some bolted connections you want to seize a bit, so they don't back out. Heck, some people even put blue thread locker on them. Even the factory uses light thread locker on some elements.
I think that putting anti-seize on the LCA bolts is a bad idea. Lots of vibrations in there and backing out of those bolts can lead to disastrous results.
 

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...

On items that are torqued to value that's a bad idea. First of all, those torque values are for dry friction. Making the thread surface slippery, for the same applied torque, you end up with more longitudinal stress on the bolt.
Also, some bolted connections you want to seize a bit, so they don't back out. Heck, some people even put blue thread locker on them. Even the factory uses light thread locker on some elements.
I think that putting anti-seize on the LCA bolts is a bad idea. Lots of vibrations in there and backing out of those bolts can lead to disastrous results.

Wow. My first reaction? Don a white robe and preach this to the off-road SUV and truck folks as well as all the do-it-yourselfers who live in cold climes with snow, ice and salt on the road.


Questions:

How many seized bolts or studs have you SoNic67 cut out and replaced? I have done more than a few. It is a common experience with folks who work on older vehicles, especially those that see 'heavy use'.

How many times have you run into incidents where the owner used anti-seize on the control arm bolts, the wheel bearing bolts or studs, the axle nut and/or the lugnuts AND torqued them to FSM specification and then the bolts or nuts became loose?

I have NEVER encountered such an experience. I have never run across a professional mechanic or an automobile engineer that advised against using anti-seize on external connections. But if you have SoNic67, please share your data, anecdotal or otherwise.

I sure hope you did not get this 'information' from mechanics who are paid by the hour to remove and replace seized bolts, studs and nuts.
 

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You can say what you want, but the official service manuals don't say anything about putting anti-seize on those bolts. They might say not to reuse them because of stretching stress!
Factory installed bolts don't have any anti-seize on them either.
That's my data.

You can slobber that crap over the bolt later if you want, but not during torquing. If, 10 years later, that part is rusted, that's another problem. But you don't overstretch that bolt, minimizing it's capacity, just to make it easier for the guy 10 years from now.

Seeing antiseize on bolts to me is clear sign of a clueless driveway mechanic.

PS: Read what Antiseze company says about the value of alternative/reduced torque when using antiseize (that probably you never followed):
And that says nothing about the chance of that bolt backing out due to reduced friction on threads.
 

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.....
Seeing antiseize on bolts to me is clear sign of a clueless driveway mechanic.
......
Thanks for the gratuitous insult.

And yes, you are the first and only person I have encountered who has ever recommended reducing torque when anti-seize is added.

It must be tough being so much better educated and smarter than everybody else. Rock on bro'! Ever think of yourself as presidential material?

In the meantime, this clueless, stupid driveway mechanic will continue to follow FSM recommendations and to follow both professional and experienced driveway mechanics.
 

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@eGAK009 - I did provide the same link above. I guess the paper from antiseize.com it's not "professional" enough for the guy above. He probably thinks that Youtube videos are professional advice. And what's funny, based on his comment about the president of US, starts to paint a certain picture about himself. TDS.
So I'll just ignore him from now.

PS: For the rest - another un-professional link (from spark plugs manufacturer) warning against use of antiseize. This time on their spark plugs:
 

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Thanks for the gratuitous insult.

And yes, you are the first and only person I have encountered who has ever recommended reducing torque when anti-seize is added.

It must be tough being so much better educated and smarter than everybody else. Rock on bro'! Ever think of yourself as presidential material?

In the meantime, this clueless, stupid driveway mechanic will continue to follow FSM recommendations and to follow both professional and experienced mechanics.
Don't feel bad. Sonic was the smartest guy on the planet over in the Gen 1 forum until he upgraded to Gen 2. He had a Soul a month and was a freaking expert. He can't read this post because I called him out on his arrogant BS and he blocked me. There's always one in every forum.
 

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@jdmartin: This Sonic is quite the guy. He believes that we do not know that anti-seize should not be added to fresh spark plugs (which typically come with a coating).

Besides that, did anybody here or elsewhere on the forum recommend adding anti-seize to fresh spark plugs? Did the OP mention a problem with spark plugs?

A little dose of healthy narcissism is not necessarily a bad thing and strawman arguments can be entertaining but ....

Easily solved. If he pokes up in a future thread, I will stay off the thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK so what ever the hell this thread turned into.

Parts arriving tomorrow but gonna be a rainy week.
Thanks for the tip on the axle nut.

Anything else I should be aware of before doing it?

Read you should have weight on the wheel before tightening the ball joint bolts.
But seems straight forward enough.
I can generally figure most stuff out but have yet to do this yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Just tried to remove the control arm and on both side one of the bushing bolts will not budge.
Its the back vertical bushing thats towards rear of car.

Sprayed pb blaster let it sit few hours.
Air impact, socket and cheater bar.

It will not move at all. Other bolts came of easy.

Looks like I'll have to cut it out.
 

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When PB Blaster! and other penetrating oils are used, the guys will do this over several days and let it sit several days. Judging from a few anecdotes, a few hours is rarely enough.

Heat is an option. Banging the bolt with a big, heavy metal hammer can help, on occasion.

Otherwise an angle grinder and/or reciprocating saw. Angle grinder if you have one and there is enough room. Not enough room? Reciprocating saw. Watch the kick back.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
After googling the subject it seems that alot of times the bolt gets nature welded inside the steel bushing sleeve.

Since I'm in ny and been getting the full salt treatment for 10 winters I'm sure its rusted in place.

I dont have time to play the game with it as its busy season at work. Its in a really tight spot so hammering or any rotary tool are a no go.
Just gonna get sawz all blades and cut it. Ordered new oem nuts and bolts for all of it and as soon as they arrive ill do it
 

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New York, eh? That explains why it is seized tight.

Do not skimp on the reciprocating saw blades. A high quality, expensive blade with fewer teeth will work better than one designed for metal but with many teeth. Generously cover with light oil as you do it in order to preempt heat build up and premature wear of the blade.

This is what I used on the Xterra:

134995


Note the 8 TPI (teeth per inch). A 6 inch long blade worked for me but if a 4-inch will work, shorter is better IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So finally went out to swap the control arm and boy was it fun.

Bough a couple 6in torch carbide blades to cut the bushing and found it was to short so had to go out for a 9in which worked.
And its not fun or easy to cut through.
Cut through top of bushing and bolt still would budge so started on bottom but quarter way through it broke free so clamped vice grips and worked it out.

Ball joint stud was seized up in the knuckle.
Dug around tool chest found a pickle wrench and luckily that was enough leverage to get it out.

Went back together easy enough.

Decided to change the stabilizer links to which was also fun.
Had to drill out one of the bolts as the Sawzall could fit in to cut and the brake line was 2 inches away and would of turned into a new nightmare.

Its an easy enough job if the bolts come out.
I had to fight every one.

And I still have the driver side to do tomorrow which has me excited
 

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Thanks for reporting back. Sounds like progress. The second side is always easier and faster than the first side.

Did you take a breaker bar to those stabilizer link bolts?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Did the second side tonight and it was just as much of a joke.
The carbide saw blade seemed to not cut as well so I cut a inch and half off it so fresh teeth were biting.

So buy a blade for each side.

For the stabilizer link bolts I used a small breaker bar.
Issue with those is that you need to put a wrench on back side and I couldn't get any to fit so had to use vice grips.

On both sides the bottom nut came of fine. Top one came off 1/2 way and wouldn't budge so I had to drill it out.

At least its done now.
 
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