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Getting ready to do the first brake job at 73k miles on my 2011 Soul ! sport. The mechanic is telling me that I will "probably need rotors". I asked why since the brakes just started to squeak and he said something about "these new brakes tend to last longer before the first change, but you usually end up needing to replace rotors when you do. Estimates the cost to be around $300.00

What does everyone think? Does he see a woman and think she's gullible?
 

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The PADS have a built in SQUEAKER to let you know that the Pads are ready for changing... You just need Pads replace at this point... If your brake peddle is not pulsating from rotor warpage, you do NOT need NEW ROTORS... Juat a PAD replacement...!!!
 

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To be honest no one knows if you will need rotors or not unless you take a look at them. Depending on what wheels you have you may be able to see your rotors without even pulling the tires off. They can be warped as mentioned above but they can also wear in many different ways and have grooves or steps in them. In some ways your mechanic is correct when they took materials like asbestos out of the pads the new compounds were harder and wear more uneven. Or he could be just giving you the high end so you won’t be surprised. Or he could be planning to take you to the cleaners.

If you want an educated guess take your cell phone and take a pic between the spokes on your front wheels of the rotor and maybe we can tell you more. Also scratch your fingernail over the surface and see if you feel ridges.
 

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As to 73K that all depends on how many times you put the brakes on per mile and how hard you stop. If all you driving was highway without stopping they would last forever.
 

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We drive on a lot of dirt roads and it’s next to impossible to keep dirt and mud and grime out of the brakes. I just did brakes on her Honda Element quite similar to the Soul and I never saw rotors so messed up. Between salt, cinders and mud the rotors only last as long as the pads. For normal people rotors should long outlast pads.
Stop and go driving will wear your brake pads out faster and also rotors but the rotors should still outlast the pads. Really long had braking like you would see pulling a camper or something down long hills can heat and warp rotors. That would be a mode where rotors would go faster than normal also.
 

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used to own a 2016 Soul SX 2.0L - Caribbean Blue
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Impossible to comment on the rotors without looking over your shoulder :sneakiness: If in doubt you can always get a second opinion at another garage.
Is this at a dealership or independent garage?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
He's an independent that I have heard both good and questionable reviews about. One thing for sure, he does know I use this forum, because the car was making a weird thump in the back over the wheel wells before, and several folks on here talked about having some bolts tightened on it. I printed it and took it to him, and he was surprised but did it and called back to say I was right. Well, actually the Kia Forum was right!
 

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There have been guys/or gals, post here with 150,000 miles + on their brakes and still going strong.
I had 150k miles on my 2000 Grand Vitara, when I traded it in and never did have to put new brakes on it.
At 32k miles on my Soul, my brake pads are still just like new.

It's just that some people always wait till the last second before a stop, and then stand on their brake pedal, causing excess brake pad wear, and others start braking slowly long before they have to stop. I'm in the latter group. If I see a stop coming up I will also downshift to burn off some speed before I have to use the brakes.

Coming off of the Interstate at 80mph, I downshift as soon as I can pull off onto the exit lane and by the time I'm at the bottom of the ramp, having shifted down to second gear by then, I've slowed down till I only have to tap the brake pedal a couple of times to come to a full stop.

OH, and in the past 40 years, I've never had to replace any rotors or brake-drums, and unless they are really damaged, I won't even have them turned.

A tire and brake expert told me, many years ago, that a slightly groved brake drum or rotor will actually stop you better than a nice, smooth, one, because a grooved surface presents more surface to the brake pads. As soon as new pads wear in, braking improves.

However, if I were to ever replace my brake rotors, they would certainly be the 'drilled and grooved' type. I might only do that if I were to pull a heavy trailer and need improved braking. The OEM brakes on the Soul are sufficient for normal driving.

Cheers Mates and Happy Motoring!

:cool:
 

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Get a 2nd opinion, I agree with the points that if the rotors aren't warped ( brake pedal pulsating), or really grooved and gouged badly that they are probably fine, but they don't make them as thick as they used to so I think many brake shops sell you new ones for two reasons, obviously they make more money, but they also don't want you coming back in 6 months because now your rotors are too thin and warping! These days I don't think they make the rotors thick enough to be resurfaced though a few brake jobs.
I've also been told by mechanics that a small amount of grooves in the rotors are no reason to replace them, the brake pads will wear into the rotors and stop you just fine.

I hope this helps more than it confuses
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you very much Bud! Now I don't feel quite so much like a woman being taken advantage of by a mechanic! I just feel like a woman who will have to cough up a little more money! For a good reason.
 

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Every rotor has a certain thickness that it has to be and can be measured,if it is too thin you need to get new ones. As already said if your pedal is not pulsating which you have said nothing about you are good to go on it being warped. Now if rotor is not completely smooth all that will happen is where rough spot is it will wear pads a little more till pads get "broke in,"wore like disk is and oh it will take 1,000mi or so but until this happens brakes will not be 100%.
If it was me I would just have GOOD pads put on but if you wanted to and trust the repair person to tell you the truth you could have him measure the rotors a few places,they can do it on the car but I am betting they will be ok.
 

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+1 on everything said above!
If the rotors are still above minimum thickness and are not heavily scored and there has been no pulsation in the brake pedal or shimmy at the steering wheel when brakes are applied, then a simple pad replacement should suffice.
The pads will quickly wear/adapt to any surface irregularities that the rotor faces may have and this would be considered normal in most applications.
Even when new, rotors are rarely glass smooth and when they are, that usually indicates they have become glazed and less effective as a braking component.
If you did elect to replace the rotors they could be had as cheaply as 25.00 per rotor.
You could also go the way of drilled or slotted rotors though definitely not necessary.
Quality pads and a simple deglazing (emery cloth) of your current rotors should restore braking safely & completely.
I'm a fan of bendix or wagner pads but there are many to choose from, several with a lifetime warranty.
 

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Rotors can be resurfaced they call it turning even though the correct term is facing. That requires taking the rotors off and then machining them. As mentioned above there is a condemning limit and that can be determined after they take them off measuring with a tool called a micrometer. What you will find is the cost of new rotors is going to be about the same as the labor to turn them in most cases on these small cars. Sure you can throw a set of pads on and pay the labor for tearing it all down to that point and not do the little bit more to replace the rotors. That’s what used car dealers do all the time. As mentioned above it will take a while to wear in and that wearing in is wearing out your new pads. That rough surface will also wear your pads faster the next time around and you won’t get 73k out of the next set.

Most repair shops have a standard they have to work to and won’t compromise. There are some that will take advantage and oversell but in my years of working on cars and having cars worked on I would say most are just being careful for their own interest first and looking out for your safety at the same time. If they send you out with brakes that are going to take a 1000 miles to seat in as someone said above they are risking you having a problem during that time and coming back on them.

I’m just going by the photo you posted and I would say your rotor is not close to as bad as many I have seen but it shows some signs of wear and in my opinion will wear out your new pads faster than they should be. They most likely would be able to be turned smooth if you wanted to go that route. I sometimes don’t trust the shops that turn them as the guys are not machinists and I always wonder if they get them as true as new rotors. I just did all 4 wheels on our Honda Element and the cost was about $150 more to include the rotors if I remember correctly. That’s a lot of money I know but in today’s world a $150 isn’t that much when it comes to cars. In my case I had 2 wheels that looked about like yours and two that were worse. All it really takes is one side of one rotor to be messed up and the rest marginal and I will change them all just to get back to new again. Things that make my car stop are more important to me than things that make it go.
 
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