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Discussion Starter #1
Car: 2012 Kia Soul +

When the key is in the first turned position only the radio turns on but the locks, lights, etc don't work. Even the warning sound that the key is in the ignition with the door open doesn't beep.

When key is turned all the way forward (before engine start) they all turn on (as well as when the car is running).

Helpful notes? Car has no issues starting. Battery was purchased new at autozone in July. Could it be the alternator? I purchased an OBDII device but could it diagnose this?

I drove the car for an hour straight today. Before driving, same issue. After getting out the door locks via the door and keyfob worked. Test drove a car, came back a half hour later and still worked. Drove home and they locked via fob like they should. Ten bucks says tomorrow they won't be working again.

Side note: during this same time the tire pressure light won't go off even though all the tires are correctly filled. It's been on for the last two weeks for the most part as well. It blinks for the first 60 seconds when starting the car and then stays solid.
 

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Side note: during this same time the tire pressure light won't go off even though all the tires are correctly filled. It's been on for the last two weeks for the most part as well. It blinks for the first 60 seconds when starting the car and then stays solid.

I'll let others chime in on the first part of your question, but the TPM light could be unrelated. How long has it been since you've had the TPM units changed on your wheels, if ever? The batteries in these units, which are not replaceable, only last about 5-7 years. When only one battery dies, your TPM light will light up and stay lit to tell you so. Unfortunately the Soul's tire pressure monitoring system doesn't differentiate which wheel has the dead battery, so your only choices are to either change all four units or live with the light on. If you decide the latter you'll want to check your tire pressures at least monthly since the system can no longer warn you of a low or high tire pressure. Even with a TPM system you should still be manually checking your tire pressures at least monthly.

My car, for example, is 6 years old and I'll be replacing the tires within the next few months. When I have my tires changed I need to decide if I'll be changing the TPM units out at the same time. OtherwiseI Icould end up again paying for the labor to have the tires unmounted, remounted and balanced in my order to replace the units should a battery (or more) die after my new tires were mounted. The TPM system is a nice feature, but with it comes extra costs that most people do not think about.

I hope ths helps answer your last question? Good luck!
 
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It doesn’t sound like it is the battery since you are able to start the car and not the alternator since the battery is maintaining sufficient charge to start the car. OBDII scanner helps track down check engine light errors—typically related to the emissions system, not electrical, so it probably will not be helpful tracking things down.

Am unclear when you say radio works when key is in 1st (acc) position but lights and locks don’t. Locks and lights should work without key even being in ignition switch. Also, am unclear about the key fob—do you have intermittent problems unlocking and locking the car with the remote fob?

Are there a lot of keys on your key ring? Sometimes a mass of keys or weighty items on a key ring can torque the ignition cylinder.

Not sure how often the 1st gen Souls ignition switches go bad, but fairly common in some Hondas. Could be that the contacts in the ignition switch (electrical part not mechanical) has worn down so it will only complete the circuit in the “acc” position intermittently.
 

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The first ACC contact (in that key position) might be worn out. The next ACC contact takes the duties of the first contact, when the key is moved there, because of that "bridge" between them (shown below as a round arch).

134864
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It doesn’t sound like it is the battery since you are able to start the car and not the alternator since the battery is maintaining sufficient charge to start the car. OBDII scanner helps track down check engine light errors—typically related to the emissions system, not electrical, so it probably will not be helpful tracking things down.

Am unclear when you say radio works when key is in 1st (acc) position but lights and locks don’t. Locks and lights should work without key even being in ignition switch. Also, am unclear about the key fob—do you have intermittent problems unlocking and locking the car with the remote fob?

Are there a lot of keys on your key ring? Sometimes a mass of keys or weighty items on a key ring can torque the ignition cylinder.

Not sure how often the 1st gen Souls ignition switches go bad, but fairly common in some Hondas. Could be that the contacts in the ignition switch (electrical part not mechanical) has worn down so it will only complete the circuit in the “acc” position intermittently.
So as sonic said, when the key is out of the ignition, nothing works (its like the car battery is dead). When the key is turned to acc only the radio works. When it's turned to on and or start, everything works as normal.

What was weird was I drove an hour yesterday and suddenly it all worked as normal. When I got out of the car and took the key out of the ignition locks worked again. Did some errands for 30 minutes and came back and locks were still working without the key being in ignition. Drove an hour home - same thing. And weirdly enough just now I tested the locks via the key chain and could hear the car make the lock sound honk so they're working right now.

That's what's weird. Sometimes they're working but most of the time they don't seem to be. If they weren't working at all I would think a fuse had blown, but currently super confused.
 

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I'll let others chime in on the first part of your question, but the TPM light could be unrelated. How long has it been since you've had the TPM units changed on your wheels, if ever? The batteries in these units, which are not replaceable, only last about 5-7 years. When only one battery dies, your TPM light will light up and stay lit to tell you so. Unfortunately the Soul's tire pressure monitoring system doesn't differentiate which wheel has the dead battery, so your only choices are to either change all four units or live with the light on. If you decide the latter you'll want to check your tire pressures at least monthly since the system can no longer warn you of a low or high tire pressure. Even with a TPM system you should still be manually checking your tire pressures at least monthly.

My car, for example, is 6 years old and I'll be replacing the tires within the next few months. When I have my tires changed I need to decide if I'll be changing the TPM units out at the same time. OtherwiseI Icould end up again paying for the labor to have the tires unmounted, remounted and balanced in my order to replace the units should a battery (or more) die after my new tires were mounted. The TPM system is a nice feature, but with it comes extra costs that most people do not think about.

I hope ths helps answer your last question? Good luck!
I got the tires replaced at Costco last year and rotated last month. Would the have done that? It wasn't until two weeks ago that I was having the issue though.
 

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1. Ignition - those contacts are spring loaded. When they wear out, the springs extent more, so an internal "bump" might let the contact go a bit further and touch the finger. They will stop working more and more often, leaving you stranded in the worse place and time. Murphy law.
2. TPMS - those are operated internally by batteries. Max 10 years in my experience. Also, the tire shops sell a so-called "TPMS kit" that replaces the gaskets of those OE TPMS units when you repair an air leak or get new tires.
 

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2. TPMS - those are operated internally by batteries. Max 10 years in my experience. Also, the tire shops sell a so-called "TPMS kit" that replaces the gaskets of those OE TPMS units when you repair an air leak or get new tires.
True, but unless you ask for, and pay for, replacement units they just put your old ones back in, but with a new gasket. If the originals are as old as the car then that's how old the batteries are within them.

Discount Tire's website says:
TPMS batteries last approximately 7-10 years or 100,000 miles. Tire sealant, corrosion from the elements and a weak or dead battery can make sensor replacement necessary. The battery inside the TPMS sensor is not removable. When the battery life has come to an end, a new TPMS sensor will be required. The TPMS sensor will need to be installed by a tire professional so that the system can be trained to recognize the new sensor. If one of the batteries in your TPMS has ended, it is likely the others are very close to needing replacement as well. It may be a good time to replace all of your sensors to eliminate any other TPMS related issues shortly down the line.

More information about TPMS replacements can be found here:

More info about the replacement/rebuild TPMS kits:


To the OP; Have you gone and physically checked the tire pressures since having your tires replaced? You might want to and see if the pressures are wildly off. Most-often the tire shops will fill the tires to the proper pressures when the car's still up on the rack, but once the car's on the ground with the weight of the car bearing down on the tires the pressures will go up. If the pressures are then too high the TPMS units will trigger a warning light. Check your tire pressures now and adjust accordingly. The tire shop should have rechecked the pressures once down from the rack, but then oil change places, including the dealership service center, should check the oil levels after a change. Unfortunately they sometimes don't. Be your own car's advocate and check things yourself! 👍

Please also read through the few pages of the user manual regading the TPMS system for your car's model rear here:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
True, but unless you ask for, and pay for, replacement units they just put your old ones back in, but with a new gasket. If the originals are as old as the car then that's how old the batteries are within them.

Discount Tire's website says:
TPMS batteries last approximately 7-10 years or 100,000 miles. Tire sealant, corrosion from the elements and a weak or dead battery can make sensor replacement necessary. The battery inside the TPMS sensor is not removable. When the battery life has come to an end, a new TPMS sensor will be required. The TPMS sensor will need to be installed by a tire professional so that the system can be trained to recognize the new sensor. If one of the batteries in your TPMS has ended, it is likely the others are very close to needing replacement as well. It may be a good time to replace all of your sensors to eliminate any other TPMS related issues shortly down the line.

More information about TPMS replacements can be found here:

More info about the replacement/rebuild TPMS kits:


To the OP; Have you gone and physically checked the tire pressures since having your tires replaced? You might want to and see if the pressures are wildly off. Most-often the tire shops will fill the tires to the proper pressures when the car's still up on the rack, but once the car's on the ground with the weight of the car bearing down on the tires the pressures will go up. If the pressures are then too high the TPMS units will trigger a warning light. Check your tire pressures now and adjust accordingly. The tire shop should have rechecked the pressures once down from the rack, but then oil change places, including the dealership service center, should check the oil levels after a change. Unfortunately they sometimes don't. Be your own car's advocate and check things yourself! 👍

Please also read through the few pages of the user manual regading the TPMS system for your car's model rear here:
Yes, I have checked them three times since the warning began. All are at 33 psi.
 

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Heck yeah. For $15 I don't expect new sensors, just new gaskets and valves.
2. TPMS - those are operated internally by batteries. Max 10 years in my experience. Also, the tire shops sell a so-called "TPMS kit" that replaces the gaskets of those OE TPMS units when you repair an air leak or get new tire
Just trying to figure out where you stated (above) that the "kit" you were referring to was $15? 🤔 Which is why I differentiated the so-called "kits".

Discount Tires for example refer to the gaskets as a needed service part when changing tires with TPMS sensors and their "kits" as a set of 4 sensors & gaskets, although it looks like now they just sell the sensors individually.
 

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Just trying to figure out where you stated (above) that the "kit" you were referring to was $15?
I didn't say the price, but I specifically said that the kit replace only the gaskets:
the tire shops sell a so-called "TPMS kit" that replaces the gaskets of those OE TPMS units when you repair an air leak or get new tires.
That was just a service offered by tire shops, besides replacing the whole sensor.
Example: https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/tire---wheel-16779/tpms-service-kit-14720/773544973f2f
 

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Yes, I have checked them three times since the warning began. All are at 33 psi.
Do you happen to have a spare and does it also have a TPMS in it? Sometimes spares are forgotten about, which is why I asked.

You should read through that part of the user manual about TPMS malfunction indicators and see if what Kia says there matches what you're experiencing, as I mentioned in my first post (#9). Here's the direct link:

It could be a dead battery or worse, but considering that the TPMS light turned on after a recent tire rotation, that could have been the cause or triggered a malfunction light. Does Costco offer any free troubleshooting services when you buy tires from them, like the tire-only shops do? You might want to take it back to them as they be able to test your TPMS system and see if it's a dead TPMS unit battery.
 

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Yes, I have checked them three times since the warning began. All are at 33 psi.

Here's what Discount Tires' website says:
The TPMS will illuminate a dashboard warning light whenever the pressure drops below the vehicle's recommended level by 25% or more. The official TPMS symbol is a yellow exclamation mark inside a tire cross-section. If you see this alert illuminated on the dash, you should immediately check your tire pressure or stop by one of our stores so we can inspect your tire for a puncture that might be causing the air loss. If the light still displays after setting the tire pressure, your TPMS may need to be run through a "relearn" process or might even require a TPMS sensor replacement.

 

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Car: 2012 Kia Soul +

When the key is in the first turned position only the radio turns on but the locks, lights, etc don't work. Even the warning sound that the key is in the ignition with the door open doesn't beep.

When key is turned all the way forward (before engine start) they all turn on (as well as when the car is running).

Helpful notes? Car has no issues starting. Battery was purchased new at autozone in July. Could it be the alternator? I purchased an OBDII device but could it diagnose this?

I drove the car for an hour straight today. Before driving, same issue. After getting out the door locks via the door and keyfob worked. Test drove a car, came back a half hour later and still worked. Drove home and they locked via fob like they should. Ten bucks says tomorrow they won't be working again.

Side note: during this same time the tire pressure light won't go off even though all the tires are correctly filled. It's been on for the last two weeks for the most part as well. It blinks for the first 60 seconds when starting the car and then stays solid.
Im not sure I follow this correctly but sounds like you are in ACC (accessory) mode the first "click" with the key. Nothing but the radio and the cigarette lighters should be on in ACC.
 

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Im not sure I follow this correctly but sounds like you are in ACC (accessory) mode the first "click" with the key. Nothing but the radio and the cigarette lighters should be on in ACC.
yes, but the car lights and lights in the ceiling of the car should turn on and they don't turn on unless the key is in the "start" position. The only thing that works when the key is in the first click "acc" is the radio. When the key is out of the ignition the door locks, overhead lights, headlights, etc don't work. It was doing that for about two weeks.

Ever since I drove the car for two hours on saturday everything has been working perfectly again which is weird.
 

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yes, but the car lights and lights in the ceiling of the car should turn on and they don't turn on unless the key is in the "start" position. The only thing that works when the key is in the first click "acc" is the radio. When the key is out of the ignition the door locks, overhead lights, headlights, etc don't work. It was doing that for about two weeks.

Ever since I drove the car for two hours on saturday everything has been working perfectly again which is weird.
It could be that your ignition column, the part where your key goes in and turns, is failing. Our 18 year old minivan had this problem and the ingnition had to be replaced. Plus even the replacement began experiencing problems after time (the key can be removed while the car's running). The culprit? Heavy keychains with lots of keys, they're more of a problem than even we thought. Over time the keychain's weight, along with vibrations from driving & the keychain's swinging, wear down the tumblers and how they function with the ignition's electronic connections. We ended up taking it to a reputable locksmith and they replaced it for a fraction of the cost that the dealership wanted.

You have it working now, but keep an eye on it. If it happens again consider taking it to a locksmith that handles car keys and ignitions. If it's what happened to us it'll not get any better on its own. Hopefully it won't eventually effect your being able to start the car as it did with us.

Good luck! 👍
 
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