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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

2014 Soul 2.0, only 43k miles, well maintained.

Starting to have a lot of problems with it. Today, it won't lock with the Fob, and if you open the door and press the door lock button, it will try to lock and immediately unlock. Also, as further info, when you remove the key from the ignition, open the drivers door, it will chime repeatedly.

None of the doors or hatch is open. Tried opening and closing them multiple times. Also tried spraying each latch with WD40, no difference.

I have re-done 5 grounds that I could find inside the engine compartment just in case it was a grounding problem.

Other weird problems that car is having -- NAV system is slow to boot up after the car was started more than once. Rare occasion, the engine will run rough with a misfire detected on 1 and 3. And the other day the oil pressure light was flickering during idle, but I did a fresh oil change with synthetic and quality NAPA filter and I have not seen the oil light flicker since.

But todays problem is the door locking issue, which is new.

Any suggestions?
 

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Are you sure it’s not a battery issue?
Modern vehicles can be really crazy when batteries begin to get flakey.
Good call though on checking grounds
 

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2017 Base/auto, Shadow Black (Betsy)
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The door locks are acting like another fobs in the car.
Can use lock the car up with the key?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If I manually use the key in the driver-side key hole, it will lock only that door -- the driver door. None of the other doors have key holes for locking. Since the other doors were not locked, they are still unlocked

I took it for a drive earlier, and did not see the car auto-lock the doors while driving, either. I am less concerned about that. The inability to lock the car is a huge problem.

I gotta be honest, this car has sucked. Another problem it has, that I forgot to mention in the first post, is that it will occasionally just not try to start when you turn the key. Just dead, no attempt to crank at all. Turn the key back all the way, try again, and it will probably start fine like if everything was perfect.

Just way too many of these nuisance problems for a 2014 car with low miles and babied in its care.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No, its not a battery issue, although that is another problem this car has had over last 3 years or so. I seem to routinely have to charge the battery. New battery was installed maybe 16 months ago, and I have to charge it too. I just put it on charge maybe 10 days ago and it is turning over fine, with the exception that I mentioned above -- sometimes turning the key will do absolutely nothing, but the 2nd or 3rd time will be totally fine. Rare though, has not done this since a month ago.

The battery should be charging fine as I tested over 14v while running.

It is like this car has gremlins. All kinds of weird issues popping up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
And I checked the battery in the Fob today, and it is fine. (checked it with a battery tester, not just a DMM). It was a quality panasonic cr2032, so it is definitely good.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE-
Still at a loss, hoping for more guidance.

Other symptoms -- basically nothing on either of my two fobs work -- not lock, not unlock, not the horn. But the fobs themselves are fine. Good batteries, LED lights, etc.

My friend is a good auto technician and has access to a high-end SNAP-ON Zeus tablet computer diagnostic system. We went thru the menus and the only time the car recognized the fob was during a fob relearn procedure when it detected the fob LOCK button. But then subsequent retesting, nothing.

It is possible, he says, that the Snap-On system will not properly detect the entire lock-unlock-security-fob system. No error codes were found, but again, it may be a limitation of the Zeus diagnostic tool.

Any suggestions welcome, thanks.
 

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Has the alternator been bench tested? 14v is only one consideration. Modern alternators are complex 3-phase AC generators fed into a 6way rectifier bridge and typically have modulating field coils controlled by a voltage regulator. A bad winding will produce weak amps but show good volts. A failing regulator can fluctuate wildly, yet between the car's battery and the Digital MM's internal circuitry read fairly stable.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
1) Thank you manfreity you were 100% correct, the problem was the ignition cylinder. I cleaned it with CRC contact cleaner (repeatedly) and compressed air and the problem is solved for now. At least I know where the problem is if it acts up again.

2) My neighbor mechanic load tested the alternator, he pulled around 200 amps with his carbon pile load tester and the alternator maxed out at 70A under load and actually voltage was on the low side, around 13.1 continuous with only the car load, would drop down into the 12s under load. While starting, the voltage tested with my Fluke dropped to around 10.3 or so during cranking.

He feels that the alternator may be good but the regulator more likely to be bad. He pulled up a description from his Snap-On Protools system he has, and it shows the regulator is removable and replaceable independently of the alternator. Protools says the alternator is rated 120A and seems to indicate 13.5v but neither of us really dug into the specifics more than that.

Your thoughts about this? He is not very familiar with Kia's so his experience with them is limited, but he thinks it does seem that the voltage is too low to keep the battery properly charged. And like I said, he thinks that the 70A max it is supplying is more likely to be a regulator issue, not necessarily the alternator itself.

So your opinion? Also, where is best place to buy either-or-both regulator-alternator? I'm tight on bucks now so if I can find something used or aftermarket that would work well, that would be ideal.

After I get this solved, then I need to pursue solving the slow re-bootup of the NAV console after the vehicle has been started then turned off, then restarted. I will start a separate thread for that after I get this alternator issue resolved.
 
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