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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Where is the Door Ajar Switch located on a 2018 ?

How can I disable it ?

I'm trying to find a current draw and because I have to have the door open to get to the dashboard fuse box it is extra work to pull a fuse then shut the door [The door ajar light is drawing current when open , Not the Problem] and take a current reading .

Thank You
Rick
 

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It's in the latch. Just use a screwdriver as a striker on the latch and close the latch (with the door open and don't forget to pull the handle to release before you actually close the door when you are done)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
bwdz75
Thanks for the quick reply

I just now tried your idea.

Unfortunately that appears Not to work for me as the door ajar indicator light on the dashboard remains on.

This is what I see in/on the latch when I push the levers back Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Orange Vehicle door Automotive exterior
I may not be doing something right .

Thank You
Rick
 

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Does it go off when you actually close the door, put the window down and peek in, maybe you just found your issue. If you continue looking do the same for the hood latch, it is hard to push down with a screwdriver to latch but it will latch and then you can have your meter on the battery while you pull fuses in the under hood fuse box. I highly recommend using an inductive clamp meter on the battery cable to see the draw as it makes things so much easier. If you have a smart key car make sure the keys are far away from the car while you are looking for your draw. It takes a few minutes for all the modules to shut down after you locked the car so you can watch your inductive clamp meter drop down as they go offline. The meter is like $50 on Amazon and worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
bwdz75

Does it go off when you actually close the door, = Yes

If you have a smart key car make sure the keys are far away = I will make sure everything is far a way

Will look into the inductive clamp meter = Thanks for the Amazon information

Some more on the current draw , when I turn or the switch if the dashboard fuse box the current draw haves , so it appears something that is in that fuse box is the problem , just haven't found it yet .

Rick
 

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Are you talking about shutting off the "shipping " switch in the dash fuse box? That switch turns off certain accessories and is used when cars are shipped to dealers or if it's going to sit on the dealer lot for a long time, in the new cars this is done electronically in the IBU so it's nice to have that manual switch for if you're going on vacation and don't want to have a dead battery.
What is the draw you have, how many mA?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Are you talking about shutting off the "shipping " switch in the dash fuse box? = Yes

What is the draw you have, how many mA? Circuit component Audio equipment Font Electronic device Measuring instrument = 330 Milliamperes (mA)

I have removed all the 10 15 20 amp fuses one at a time in the engine compartment , No Luck so I'm trying the fuses under the dashboard .

The battery dies after 3 days of no use , battery and alternator test out good .

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
FYI = when I pull fuse IOD 4 the current draw drops to 170 Milliamperes (mA)
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I'm not sure how to isolate any of this .
Any Ideas or Help ?

Rick
 

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170mA is still way too much. With a typical smart key car I see less than 25mA and it should be fluctuating in the 15-18mA range as some modules have to search for the key at least that is what I see on them usually. IOD 4 controls several things, see schematic I attached. I doubt that this is your problem, it seems like some of the things on IOD4 are staying on from whatever is causing your issue waking them up. Did you pull the multifuse in the engine room fuse box? You need a 10mm socket to remove it and a small screwdriver as there is a plastic tab that secures it on the back side as well. Pull it out and run your meter leads from the post that the 10mm nut was on to each slot that the multifuse went into and see which one is drawing the power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
bwdz75

I just have a standard key fob {lock/unlock , open the hatchback , horn alarm} I do have the Viper DS4 Remote Start Fob

Did you pull the multifuse in the engine room fuse box? I'll try that tomorrow (its dark and late)
Which/what is the multifuse ?

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Run your meter leads from the post that the 10mm nut was on to each slot that the multifuse went into and see which one is drawing the power. Do I do this with the battery connected ?

Thanks for the schematic .

Rick
 

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Yes the battery will be connected or you will not see the power draw. After you mentioned you have after market viper remote start I would suggest you start with that, I have seen many of those cause the issue. Somewhere in there is the fuse for the remote start, It is usually an inline fuse in some wiring they tuck in up behind the fuse box so you will need to stick your head in there and look upward, pull that fuse and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
bwdz75
viper remote start I would suggest you start with that {Great Idea}.
you will need to stick your head in there and look upward , Do to old age and some medical problems that may have to wait until I can get someone who can get down there and check the viper remote start fuse out .
Is there someway that I can test out where the IOD4 fuse goes to as per your schematic without taking the dashboard apart
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Where is the Smart Junction Block ?

Rick
 

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If you pop off the little triangular panel on the side of the dash with a screwdriver you will see 2 screws, take those out and then remove the 2 screws in the bottom of the panel by your knees and it will pull that panel off. Behind that is a metal panel with 4 bolts, 10mm, remove that and you should have pretty good look there without being a contortionist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
bwdz75

Sorry about the late reply .

I have been reading up on the IOD 4 fuse components , and it appears to me that in order to isolate the problem =


The SJB can be diagnosed by using the GDS. The SJB communicates with the GDS which then displays inputs and outputs along with codes.

2.​

To diagnose the SJB function, select the vehicle model, BCM and SJB.
So I would need a GDS VCI V15 OEM Diagnostic Tool has wide coverage for Kia , or take it to someone who has one is this correct ?

Did you pull the multifuse in the engine room fuse box? I'm not sure what you are referring to , I see nothing that has a 10 milameter nut except maybe
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If you pop off the little triangular panel on the side of the dash I'm not sure where and how to pop off the panel is there a site/video that shows how to do this ?

FYI = I order the
KAIWEETS Digital Clamp Meter T-RMS 6000 Counts, Multimeter Voltage Tester Auto-ranging it will be here tomorrow

I appreciate all the help you have given me

Rick
 

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Back to your very first door latch post, it looks like you only clicked the latch once, it should click again, further in, and turn off the door indicator.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Nobutter69

it looks like you only clicked the latch once, it should click again, further in, and turn off the door indicator.

Thank You for that information , I will give that a try latter , working on other problems now .

Rick
 

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GDS will not give you any info on a power draw. They are called smart junction boxes because they have a processor that you can communicate with and carry out tasks such as clicking transistors and internal relays to power or ground things. GDS or a scanner that can talk to the module would only see data and it would just tell you open/close on a particular door or if the window switch is being operated. This info is useful when you have something that doesn't work like let's say a power window doesn't go down, you can quickly pull up the data and see if the SJB is seeing the switch input and you can move on to look for the real problem if it sees the switch position when you press it. It will also let you do actuation tests on some components if you use GDS or a bi-directional scan tool but it will not help you find a power draw unless you happen to see the data on something like your mirror folded in and you look at your mirror and it isn't.
I had a Sorento in today with a battery that keeps dying so had to perform the same tests you are doing so I took a couple of snaps. You will see the handy dandy clamp meter (notice draw is only 27mA so that was not the problem, turned out to be a loose cell in the battery so battery would test good but I knocked it around and it dropped to 10.5v dropping out exactly one cell internally) You will also see the multifuse (replaced due to a recall they have for ABS on those cars) I just took a picture so you would see it and what is inside your fuse box. Also took a snap of the post that holds the 10mm nut on for the fuse, I have the cable back on it and the lead on the post while the other lead I put on the actual terminal that the fuse goes into which would create a circuit and if there was a draw it would show an amperage reading. Just did that so you could visualize it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
bwdz75

Wow what outstanding and educational reply .

I will get my KAIWEETS Digital Clamp Meter tomorrow and then do some more test .

Font Machine Electronic device Motor vehicle Automotive lighting
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Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
bwdz75

Had a friend look up under the dashboard for an in line fuse = No Luck

Viper support said this when I asked where does the DS4 get its power from and is there an inline fuse ="
(VOXX International)
Rick,
We would suggest having the install dealer at this point. The DS4 could be powered from a couple of locations in the vehicles wiring system"

So I'm on hold until I can get with Best Buy.

That is a nice Digital Clamp Meter

Thanks for all your help so far.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Nobutter69
Back to your very first door latch post, = You were right , my mistake was trying to push the big latch that looked like it could go back further and Not the little part of the latch that was in front of the bigger one towards the back , when I did it correctly the light goes off
Thank You
Rick
 
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