Here is how I installed the Philips 4 LED Daytime DRLs. I didn't take photos of the installation of the mounting brackets or snaking the passenger cable behind the grill or snaking both passenger and driver cables up but I will provide a poor verbal picture.
In retrospect this would have been easier if I had the car on lifts or at least have the front tires on ramps. It also may have been easier if I took the bumper fascia off, but I am pretty adept at breaking some of the plastic clips that hold the bumper covers on other vehicles so I decided to minimize breakage on this one.
I wanted the DRLs to look like they came with the vehicle so I chose the area below the grille just to the inside of the fog lights. There is a solid black plastic portion in that area--the mounting brackets were mounted to the upper portion of the fascia (see photo previous post). There is not a whole lot of room to maneuver tools around. I put masking tape in the area where the brackets were to be installed (the undersurface of the fascia), held the bracket in place and used a Sharpie to mark the screw locations (in retrospect a second set of hands would have been nice, but it was late at night). A 1 1/4 inch finishing nail held by a pair of vise grips was used to puncture pilot holes through the marks on the masking tape. This would be an excellent opportunity to use your handy philips offset screwdriver--I presently do not own one, but I finally understand how valuable it would have been. I did a McGyver using a philips head driver bit being turned by a 1/4 inch combination wrench (open on one side, closed on the other) with upward vertical force applied by a 1 inch metal and a 1.25 inch plastic spatula style paint scrapers to screw the mounting brackets in place. I drilled access holes for the wiring and fed the wires into the respective holes. I fished the wire for the passenger side along the inside of the grille and attached the wire with black zip wire ties. Once the passenger wire was close to the driver side wire I removed the air delivery tube (just remove the 2 plastic mushroom connectors and the tube lifts out) and reached down and pulled both wires up.
I didn't realize (or pay attention) that the internal space under the hood of the 2nd generation Souls is different and not as generous as the 1st generation. In the YouTube videos as well as photos on the process in the generation 1 installation there are nice nooks and crannies that the control box can be mounted/attached. Not so much in the 2nd generation. There is a nice vertical surface on the inner portion of the front light assembly box--I am not too sure what is actually housed just under the surface and I didn't want to crack the reflective surfaces so I chose not to attach the control box with screws. For some reason, my nice clear gooey 3M double sided adhesive tape did not want to stick to the light assembly, so out of desperation I used adhesive vecro strips that I used for a different project. The control box remains attached even after a few short drives--time will tell how the adhesive will hold up during the summer 100 degree days. On the 2016 Soul + there is a portion of the light assembly that may be used for a connector for the factory DRLs--the connector is non existent and the place where the DRL bulb is inserted is just solid black plastic--I velcro'ed the controller box right next to this dummy connector.
Corrugated cable protector was used to cover the DRL wires from the top of the engine bay down to the drivers side DRL and the cables were zip tied in a few different places. I wasn't sure how to deal with the 2 extra feet of wires so I cut 2 feet out of each side and spliced and soldered the cut ends together. I cut a notch in the upper lip of the lower part of the case that protects the positive terminal of the battery to accommodate the red wire (see photo with thin yellow arrow). I removed the cable from the negative terminal then attached the red wire to the positive connector and the black one to the negative connector, then reattached the grounding cable to the negative terminal. I used the orange wire to identify the parking light wire and spliced into the wire.
I then started the engine and tested the DRLs with headlights off and on. After verifying that all was well I clicked the DRLs into the mounting brackets. I am not too sure if I will be able to remove the DRLs from the brackets--there seems to be extremely snug attachment.
Hope this helps!
Sorry no photos of the mounting brackets or the Rube Goldberg screw installation device!
Control wires attached to battery terminals.
![wiring to battery terminals.jpg]()
Red wire in notch made in cover.
![notched positive battery cover.jpg]()
Control box velcro'ed to light assembly box.
![control box on headlight case.jpg]()
Orange wire spliced to parking light wire.
![control wire spliced with parking light wire.jpg]()
