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Kia Soul 2015 2.0 litre EX GDI Alien Green II Pearl ~56K km (35K miles) Michelin CrossClimate tires
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Glad some of this stuff was useful. The linked article simply suggests that the upstream O2 sensors are a likely cause and should be eliminated before looking elsewhere. That would have been my intuition given the my understanding of how to read problem code tea leaves.
 

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Kia Soul 2015 2.0 litre EX GDI Alien Green II Pearl ~56K km (35K miles) Michelin CrossClimate tires
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A couple of more pictures from Torque Pro reading off the Xterra.

Note the variation in O2 sensor voltage readings. That is normal. Why 2X1 registers 0.4 to 1.4 (which it should not), I do not know. Could be an artifact of the after-market O2 sensor I put in.

132657


Given your problem Waddy, the Emissions Readiness display pictured below could be helpful.

132658



P.S. For the curious, the background image is a google earth pro image of part of the lower Skeena River in central British Columbia.
 

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2015 Soul, 1.6 L, V4 - 93,000 + mi
Code P0420 Catalyst operating below minimum threshold.

P0420 is an all around code dealing with emmisions.

To learn more about this code, view YouTube videos of scannerdanner

or any other videos explaining about 02 sensors, fuel trims, catalytic converter, etc.

I bought a $25 scan tool, which plugs into the obd II port and operates via Bluetooth to my Android phone. The device is a BAFX and uses the torque pro app, which there is a free version and a paid version $5. I bought the paid version. So $30 and I was set up to view some good data.

A video on YouTube I had watched was where a guy sprayed in sea foam at the hole (bung) of the upstream sensor. This allowed the sea foam to bypass the combustion and directly administer the sea foam at the honeycomb screen of the catalytic converter; breaking up carbon buildup. I won't go into details but here is the link:

I tried his method before watching other videos on the code. I then had the code cleared and drove around a week and a half doing Uber. After an oil change, I drove for about an hour and the P0420 appeared again. But I must say, I would've passed emmisions the first time I did it.

I did another treatment and drove for about 3 days. The light came on again. Car is parked right now until I do some more research before taking it to the dealer. It could be any of these symptoms:

  • Catalytic converter
  • 02 sensors (but both are operating according to my fuel trim data)
  • Exhaust leak because it is running lean
  • Or anything that affects fuel/air mixture
  • Even a bad gas cap (mine doesn't work like it should - no clicks when tightening)
So with all this stated. Don't be concerned about trying to find the problem, although that is what we're trying to pinpoint, but find out how the parts should operate in accordance with specifications (i.e. your reading an 02 sensor that is at 2.5v but your specifications state it suppose to be at 7V). Research good first before making that final decision to replace parts.

I'm not condemning the Catalytic converter just yet because it can be something as simple as the defective gas cap, etc.
I did research on the 1.6 engines before I bought my soul. it seems there are oil consumption issues with them.on the Kia brand cars... I love my 2.0 engine . when I need that power I have it
 

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Discussion Starter #24
A couple of more pictures from Torque Pro reading off the Xterra.

Note the variation in O2 sensor voltage readings. That is normal. Why 2X1 registers 0.4 to 1.4 (which it should not), I do not know. Could be an artifact of the after-market O2 sensor I put in.

View attachment 132657

Given your problem Waddy, the Emissions Readiness display pictured below could be helpful.

View attachment 132658


P.S. For the curious, the background image is a google earth pro image of part of the lower Skeena River in central British Columbia.
I see. I don't have the PID for 02B1S1 voltage, and I'm researching on how to get it. Perhaps I need to set the protocol. I'm not sure.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #25
2015 Soul, 1.6 L, V4 - 93,000 + mi
Code P0420 Catalyst operating below minimum threshold.

P0420 is an all around code dealing with emmisions.

To learn more about this code, view YouTube videos of scannerdanner

or any other videos explaining about 02 sensors, fuel trims, catalytic converter, etc.

I bought a $25 scan tool, which plugs into the obd II port and operates via Bluetooth to my Android phone. The device is a BAFX and uses the torque pro app, which there is a free version and a paid version $5. I bought the paid version. So $30 and I was set up to view some good data.

A video on YouTube I had watched was where a guy sprayed in sea foam at the hole (bung) of the upstream sensor. This allowed the sea foam to bypass the combustion and directly administer the sea foam at the honeycomb screen of the catalytic converter; breaking up carbon buildup. I won't go into details but here is the link:

I tried his method before watching other videos on the code. I then had the code cleared and drove around a week and a half doing Uber. After an oil change, I drove for about an hour and the P0420 appeared again. But I must say, I would've passed emmisions the first time I did it.

I did another treatment and drove for about 3 days. The light came on again. Car is parked right now until I do some more research before taking it to the dealer. It could be any of these symptoms:

  • Catalytic converter
  • 02 sensors (but both are operating according to my fuel trim data)
  • Exhaust leak because it is running lean
  • Or anything that affects fuel/air mixture
  • Even a bad gas cap (mine doesn't work like it should - no clicks when tightening)
So with all this stated. Don't be concerned about trying to find the problem, although that is what we're trying to pinpoint, but find out how the parts should operate in accordance with specifications (i.e. your reading an 02 sensor that is at 2.5v but your specifications state it suppose to be at 7V). Research good first before making that final decision to replace parts.

I'm not condemning the Catalytic converter just yet because it can be something as simple as the defective gas cap, etc.
I think I found the PID for Kia from this website:

 

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I bought a $25 scan tool, which plugs into the obd II port and operates via Bluetooth to my Android phone. The device is a BAFX and uses the torque pro app, which there is a free version and a paid version $5. I bought the paid version. So $30 and I was set up to view some good data.

Hey Waddy,
THANK YOU for bringing this scan tool and software to my attention! I can't imagine why everyone doesn't buy one of these. I did a bit of research on YouTube and found a bunch of videos praising it, like the one below. I had no idea such an amazing scanner was available to all car owners. Thanks again! 👍

 

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Discussion Starter #27
I have a question.

Consider the car is running lean, which is in part throwing the P0420 code; along with other possible causes, would one or more of my valves that may be have built up carbon deposits cause a lean condition? Considering the fact that the vehicle is equipped with the GDI engine and I've learned that carbon deposits build on on the valves, which may cause it to not fully seat and causing the unmetered air to enter the intake...
 

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I have a question.

Consider the car is running lean, which is in part throwing the P0420 code; along with other possible causes, would one or more of my valves that may be have built up carbon deposits cause a lean condition? Considering the fact that the vehicle is equipped with the GDI engine and I've learned that carbon deposits build on on the valves, which may cause it to not fully seat and causing the unmetered air to enter the intake...
That absolutely is possible. As much as I obsess over oil and carbon deposits, I'm kicking myself in the gluteus maximus for not having thought of it myself.

Richard
 

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Wow. There is some really good info in this thread. I have had a bluetooth OBD scanner and torque for a while. One, so I can troubleshoot if possible anything that throws a code, and two, to make sure shops aren't lying if I take a car in.

I own a 2015 1.6 Soul base, 120k miles. I have had PO420 code on and off for a while (since 90k miles or so). My research indicated it could be upstream or downstream o2 sensor or the cat. Since I saw no apparent loss of power or change in fuel economy, I assumed it was a faulty sensor, and waited a bit. When the computer recall came in, I had already been experiencing the issue, so I also thought perhaps the cat got too hot and was damaged. I did not know to check the voltage levels of the o2 sensors, so that is now on my todo list. Unfortunately my car was past the mileage for a cat replacement from the dealer.

I will probably try to change out the sensors - does anyone have a link to the special tool? Is it available at normal parts stores?
I am a little fearful of this, as I tried to replace the upstream sensor in my girlfriend's Mazda 3, easy to get too, but had welded itself in. Even a 4-5 ft breaker bar wouldn't get it free, I had to take it to a shop with a now broken off (but fortunately not stripped!) sensor. It was on so tight they had to torch it and use an impact wrench. I do not have the latter. Don't want to repeat that experience.

First I have to figure out what I suspect is a transmission issue though - so if any of you have experience with that, stay tuned for a new thread! Thanks for the great info here.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Wow. There is some really good info in this thread. I have had a bluetooth OBD scanner and torque for a while. One, so I can troubleshoot if possible anything that throws a code, and two, to make sure shops aren't lying if I take a car in.

I own a 2015 1.6 Soul base, 120k miles. I have had PO420 code on and off for a while (since 90k miles or so). My research indicated it could be upstream or downstream o2 sensor or the cat. Since I saw no apparent loss of power or change in fuel economy, I assumed it was a faulty sensor, and waited a bit. When the computer recall came in, I had already been experiencing the issue, so I also thought perhaps the cat got too hot and was damaged. I did not know to check the voltage levels of the o2 sensors, so that is now on my todo list. Unfortunately my car was past the mileage for a cat replacement from the dealer.

I will probably try to change out the sensors - does anyone have a link to the special tool? Is it available at normal parts stores?
I am a little fearful of this, as I tried to replace the upstream sensor in my girlfriend's Mazda 3, easy to get too, but had welded itself in. Even a 4-5 ft breaker bar wouldn't get it free, I had to take it to a shop with a now broken off (but fortunately not stripped!) sensor. It was on so tight they had to torch it and use an impact wrench. I do not have the latter. Don't want to repeat that experience.

First I have to figure out what I suspect is a transmission issue though - so if any of you have experience with that, stay tuned for a new thread! Thanks for the great info here.
Yes, I have a 2015 Soul, 1.6L. I will provide steps on removing the upstream sensor below. I didn't remove my downstream sensor, as I figure you would have to tackle it from underneath the vehicle, in addition to removing the splash guard that's underneath to gain access to it.

Steps to remove the upstream 02 sensor:

1. Take your time and sit back, look, and think for a minute. Make sure engine is warm to the touch.
2. Remove the negative battery cable.
3. There is a heat shield that mounts with 3 bolts to the top of the exhaust manifold. Remove the rear bolt and then stop there. Don't remove the other 2 yet.
a. You will not be able to remove the heat shield just yet, due to the sensor protruding through it and the sensor wires connected., so after removing the rear bolt, let the heat shield sit in place.
4. Remove the sensor wires from the retaining clips. These clips are flexible so you only have to bend them apart a little bit; just enough to slip the 2 sensor wires out of them.
5. Disconnect the upstream sensor only. The connector is a push in pull out type connector, so no screwdriver is needed. Pull out the connector. You will then slide out or push out the female connector toward the fire wall and from its bracket - it is press fit in the bracket so it may seem like it is stuck. Just give it a little umph and it should slide out.
6. Now the sensor wire is loose. Move it to the side somewhere.
7. Now remove the 2 bolts from the heat shield.
8. Lift up the heat shield so you see the sensor bolt. You won't be able to remove the heat shield just yet.
9. Spray WD40 or a similar lubricant on the sensor bolt.
10. Go in the house and sit back, watch TV, or a game to let the lubricant do its thing.
11. Use a crescent wrench to loosen the sensor, but see step (a.). You will need the 02 removal tool, which you can get at a major parts store for rent or purchase.
a. Position the crescent wrench over the sensor bolt. You will find good leverage to be able to administer strength into getting it loose.
12. When you get it loose, use the 02 sensor socket to remove the sensor.
13. Remove the heat shield. Perhaps you can remove the heat shield before using the tool but it can be awkward.

Installing is the reverse. Make sure you apply a thin layer of anti-sieze around the thread of the new sensor, if the new sensor doesn't have any on it. Now be very patient and have a can of beer standing by because getting the rear heat shield bolt in may be cumbersome.

Hope this helps. You'll get the idea once you start doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
The videos show a comparison of the 2019 Kia Forte (white charts) and my 2015 Kia Soul, 1.6L (dark charts).

I wanted to see how both bank 1 02 sensors are react to the bank 1 short-term fuel trim. We can see the sensor (dark chart, Kia Soul) is behaving erratically. Perhaps the sensor is caked with a bit of carbon or something.
Any suggestions?


 

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Discussion Starter #34
I am a partner driving for Uber. So, as you can read from the first topic, I got the P0420 code.

To make a long story short, I decided to take a guy to the airport, which is a 90 mile drive, considering I had drove the car around and noticing no loss in fuel - maybe a little - or power.

I filled up before the trip, drove there, and back with a half of a tank of fuel left. That's 180 miles of continuous driving and noticed nothing that I would suspect would be my catalytic converter 🤔

Looking at the videos; comparing the sensors, I am leaning toward either the upstream sensor or a very small leak🤔

I just don't want to condemn the catalytic converter. I know I may regret it, but if I find no leaks and after testing the sensor itself, I may just buy the sensor🤔
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
I'd thought to share this with whoever sees this.

It is a diagnostic and repair website (a game, but kind of real life hypothetical situations). It is too much to explain here, but if you want to learn how to diagnose engines and such, this is very good. Check out the tutorial first as it explains everything. Good stuff... It's free😊👍

 

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I'd thought to share this with whoever sees this.

It is a diagnostic and repair website (a game, but kind of real life hypothetical situations). It is too much to explain here, but if you want to learn how to diagnose engines and such, this is very good. Check out the tutorial first as it explains everything. Good stuff... It's free😊👍


Looks interesting. I'll try it out when I get some free time. I would love to know more about diagnosing my car myself, especially when it's minor stuff I can fix with limited tools and physical ability.
Thanks for sharing! 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I had measured the temperature of both upside and downside of my catalytic converter. The upside measured above 300 and the downside measured above 175. The downside should measure higher than the upside. I'm finally convinced that my catalytic converter could either be clogged or no good. I am comfortable now to take it to the dealer and get it diagnosed further.

I wanted to find out if my catalytic converter was actually bad before taking it to the dealer.
 

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I had measured the temperature of both upside and downside of my catalytic converter. The upside measured above 300 and the downside measured above 175. The downside should measure higher than the upside. I'm finally convinced that my catalytic converter could either be clogged or no good. I am comfortable now to take it to the dealer and get it diagnosed further.

I wanted to find out if my catalytic converter was actually bad before taking it to the dealer.

Waddy, please be sure to update us after you see the dealer, I'm curious about what they tell you.
 

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I did research on the 1.6 engines before I bought my soul. it seems there are oil consumption issues with them.on the Kia brand cars... I love my 2.0 engine . when I need that power I have it
Definitely, I have a GF that has one that don't leak, don't smoke, but uses an insane amount of oil.
 
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