Some 'Home Made' Mods to my 2013 Base Soul 1.6 MT:
Materials: 1 - 3' 1X2, 1 - 4' 1X2 (Home Depot -- $2.95, 1 - Pkg of 4, 1/4" Black Door Hinge Pins (Lowes -- $.60), 2 - pkgs of Black Plastic Screw Covers (Home Depot -- $.95 per pkg), 1 - 2' X 4' 1/4" luan panel (Home Depot -- $7.57) and one 3' X 6' roll of Black Automotive carpet (Walmart -- $8.96). I used a hot-melt glue gun to secure the hinge pins into the ends of the 1 X2s and to 'HEM' the carpet. I plan to paint the wood parts black and will probably replace the plastic screw covers and screws with Snaps purchased from Walmart for $4.97. Flat end of hinge pins rest in the factory recess and shafts extend approx. 3" into the 1 X 2s. I thought that would be sturdier than wooden dowels. Plywood was scribed to fit the space and then used as a template for the carpet. I added about an extra inch all around, EXCEPT along the rear. THERE, I added about 3". After 'Hemming" (approximately 1/2" on the front and sides and about 1 1/2" along the rear, it fits rather snugly. Dropping the seatbacks allows for easy removal.
This doesn't really look as bad as the pix make it appear ... If I were to have a 'Do-Over', I would opt for a SINGLE 12V outlet and plug in a Dual-Output USB adapter as it would fit the curvature better. I bought the unit for about $9 at Walmart and used a Dremel-type tool to cut the mount plate off and to cut the plastic panel. I used a hot-melt glue gun to secure it and caulked the gap with Black RTG Silicone.
The USB Ports are 'Charge Only', although it probably wouldn't be TOO difficult to add in parallel connectivity with the stereo -- but WHY? I'm not about to surrender sovereign control over the SOUNDS ...
I popped out the console mounted unit and spliced in two 14 ga wires to provide power for the rear. If you remove the one side panel next to the gas pedal, the rest of the console is flexible enough to feed the wires under along the floor line, keeping them well away from any of the moving parts of the shifter or the parking brake mechanism.
Materials: 1 - 3' 1X2, 1 - 4' 1X2 (Home Depot -- $2.95, 1 - Pkg of 4, 1/4" Black Door Hinge Pins (Lowes -- $.60), 2 - pkgs of Black Plastic Screw Covers (Home Depot -- $.95 per pkg), 1 - 2' X 4' 1/4" luan panel (Home Depot -- $7.57) and one 3' X 6' roll of Black Automotive carpet (Walmart -- $8.96). I used a hot-melt glue gun to secure the hinge pins into the ends of the 1 X2s and to 'HEM' the carpet. I plan to paint the wood parts black and will probably replace the plastic screw covers and screws with Snaps purchased from Walmart for $4.97. Flat end of hinge pins rest in the factory recess and shafts extend approx. 3" into the 1 X 2s. I thought that would be sturdier than wooden dowels. Plywood was scribed to fit the space and then used as a template for the carpet. I added about an extra inch all around, EXCEPT along the rear. THERE, I added about 3". After 'Hemming" (approximately 1/2" on the front and sides and about 1 1/2" along the rear, it fits rather snugly. Dropping the seatbacks allows for easy removal.
This doesn't really look as bad as the pix make it appear ... If I were to have a 'Do-Over', I would opt for a SINGLE 12V outlet and plug in a Dual-Output USB adapter as it would fit the curvature better. I bought the unit for about $9 at Walmart and used a Dremel-type tool to cut the mount plate off and to cut the plastic panel. I used a hot-melt glue gun to secure it and caulked the gap with Black RTG Silicone.
The USB Ports are 'Charge Only', although it probably wouldn't be TOO difficult to add in parallel connectivity with the stereo -- but WHY? I'm not about to surrender sovereign control over the SOUNDS ...
I popped out the console mounted unit and spliced in two 14 ga wires to provide power for the rear. If you remove the one side panel next to the gas pedal, the rest of the console is flexible enough to feed the wires under along the floor line, keeping them well away from any of the moving parts of the shifter or the parking brake mechanism.