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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This evening, I replaced the trans filter with an OE filter, cleaned the magnets and put a bead of RTV silicone around the pan and refilled using KIA SPIII.
After replacing the fluid and buttoning everything together, I started the car and put my foot on the brake and shifted through the gears. Reverse seemed to shift abruptly and sort of banged into gear. Drive seems to be refusing to engage first gear (even if I select "L", but maybe engaging a higher gear (perhaps third gear). It was immediately obvious that there was a problem because the car wouldn't creep forward when releasing the brake. Starting off from a stop feel as if the parking brake is on, but the car rolls freely in neuitral, so I know the problem is within the trans. Also, I noticed a Check Engine Light which upon scanning, revealed a "P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction" error code. I cleared the code to see if it would return. The code never returned, but the problem persists. I checked fluid level again and it seemed to be overfull (now that the tranny was warm), so I drained about a quart which seemed to put me at the low mark of the dipstick (still within acce[ptable range). The only thing I can think of that I did wrong is not waiting for the silicone to dry before adding fluid. I feel like it's unlikely that the silicone contaminated the fluid, but I suppose it's possible. Any ideas? I'm super sad. Just bought this car and love it to death. Now I feel like I broke it by trying to refresh fluids. The Internet seems to have a few causes for p0755 code, for example, bad solder joints on a ribbon cable inside the trans, but I feel like it would be unlikely that such a problem would be kicked off by changing fluid and filter.

Soul (Exclaim) 2.0L
Automatic transmission
I've only owned the car a few days.
Car was running perfectly prior to this problem.
Although the previous owner wasn't diligent about maintenance, the car seemed to run fine.

Thanks for any help.
 

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Shoot man, I never add silicon to the gasket...
Open it again and check the connector to be set properly. Check the filter to be properly seated. Did you reuse the gasket?
My drain/fill takes 2 qt of fluid.

If is indeed just that solenoid that got clogged, maybe you can replace the whole solenoid assembly: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7969340&cc=1444230&jsn=341
There is another one called EPS / VFS: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7969344&cc=1444230&jsn=339
I don't know if "cleaning" the existing solenoids is worth contemplating.

I have a pdf with the A4CF2 transmission, but is too big to be attached here. I'll PM you.


Other alternative is that the car already had an issue, sometimes the A/T codes can be "cleared" for a little while. Your reader might not see all the codes...
Draining and filling never harms the transmission by itself. I have drained multiple transmissions, replaced the filters, to include my 2011 Soul. At 55k miles, my A/T fluid was dark-brown.
 

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Petr0,

Sad to hear that, but don't give up yet. What sonic suggests sounds like a good approach. While back inside, I'd replace the shift solenoids and hopefully all will be resolved.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys! And thank you for the pdf, SoNic67. The first thing I'm going to do is buy more SPIII and do a proper drain and refill following the procedure stated in the pdf. If that doesn't help, I'll drop the pan again and see if the silicon looks like it oozed out. Incidentally, this transmission comes from the factory without a gasket and so silicon is necessary. I'll report back with any updates.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
YAY!! I found the problem!! The wiring harness that goes to the solenoid was damaged by me accidentally cutting it while using a razor blade to cut through the silicon to remove the pan.
The wiring harness cost between $100-$200 and I'll have to drop the valve body to change it, but at least I know where the problem is and I know that I can fix it without having to go with a rebuilt transmission. Yay! Yay! Yay!
Thanks for the helpful input and actually, I'm going to go with a gasket this time because I don't want to wait 24 hours for the silicon to dry before I can fill it with SPIII and drive it. I'll stick with Kia SPIII though because I'm scared to experiment with that stuff (I'm a veteran Honda guy and with Honda autos you don't use ANYTHING but Honda fluid, or else...), and also because my dealership misquoted me $8.80/qt for Kia SPIII and now they're honoring that price for me.
 

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Awesome news petrO !!! Glad to hear it worked out! BTW, how'd the trans fluid color look? Our 2010 was flushed twice and both times, the fluid was definitely brown in color before changing.

Greg
 

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Congrats. I would splice the wires - solder gun, and heat-shrink tubes over individual wires and over the whole loom. You might be able to do it without dropping the valve body - that could lead to other problems if done... carelessly. Lowe's, Home Depot carry those shrink tubes.

As for the fluid, the transmission is Mitsubishi (either straight-up or a licensed copy build by Hyundai). You can use whatever you want, but the Castrol fluid is actually better (at the Toyota fluid quality level). Hyundai and Kia just sell re-labeled fluids made locally in SK.

PS: Honda are horrid, the worst cars that I have worked on. That's why they like to blame other parties for their failures (like fluids that are better than theirs).
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Fluid was defo brown, but didn't smell burnt at all, so it's fine. Brown fluid is normal and doesn't indicate a problem as the red is only dye and doesn't serve a purpose other than fluid identification.

The wires are actually printed circuits on ribbon cable, so splicing is not an option. Pic of wire harness (wrapped in braided sheath) attached.

Kia of downtown Los Angeles, surprisingly has the part in stock. $161 plus tax, but I'm happy to be able to pick it up today!
 

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Brown fluid is normal and doesn't indicate a problem as the red is only dye and doesn't serve a purpose other than fluid identification.
That's what they want you to believe :eek:
I have drained the fluids on my Explorer, Sable, Sonata, XG350 and Soul at approx the same intervals (actually the Soul earlier at 55k when I bought it).
Only the Soul one was black...
Transmission oil 55k miles.jpg

Note that the Sonata and XG350 had also a Mitsu transmission. It's just better cooled. Ford transmissions have a temp sensor inside, you can see the transm fluid temp with a OBDII scanner in real time.
My impression is that temperature doesn't kill only the dye. Seals, additive packs...
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Does anyone have an "overhaul manual" for this thing? Or at least know the torque sequence of the valve body bolts?
The manual that SoNic67 kindly sent to me says to follow the "Valve body's disassembly in overhaul manual". Would be nice to have that. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well mine wasn't black, just medium dark brown. But, you've got a point there. Other cars do usually retain the redness. Hmmm...
 

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When I had mine changed by the dealership, it came back with a new updated drain pan with a drain plug. The original pan did not have one and it always leaked a small amount since it was new. Humm...
 

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When I had mine changed by the dealership, it came back with a new updated drain pan with a drain plug. The original pan did not have one and it always leaked a small amount since it was new. Humm...
Did not had a plug? And it leaked? How the...

My 2011 2.0L had a plug. If leaks, a new gasket is needed, they have them at parts store. It happend to one of my Hyundai cars.

The Sable and Explorer pans didn't have a drain plug, so I have bought ones with a plug... otherwise it's a mess to take the pan down full with oil. Half spills on driveway.

BTW... don't know if is just advertising or not, but here it is: https://www.haydenauto.com/Featured Products-Transmission and Engine Oil Coolers/Content.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yep, that was definitely the problem. See attached pic. Cost almost $200 for the replacement cable after-tax, but as long as it works as good as it did before, I'm happy. the new cable is in and everything is torqued down and buttoned-up. Just waiting for silicone to dry 24 hours before I put fluid in and fire it up.
 

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You put silicone back? So you are planning to repeat the cutting and scraping of the silicone next time? Or just never replace the filter and drive it till it dies?

Thanks for posting, very instructive.
 

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Did not had a plug? And it leaked? How the...

My 2011 2.0L had a plug. If leaks, a new gasket is needed, they have them at parts store. It happend to one of my Hyundai cars.

The Sable and Explorer pans didn't have a drain plug, so I have bought ones with a plug... otherwise it's a mess to take the pan down full with oil. Half spills on driveway.

BTW... don't know if is just advertising or not, but here it is: https://www.haydenauto.com/Featured Products-Transmission and Engine Oil Coolers/Content.aspx
My 2010 had no plug but leaked around the pan a small amount. I was surprised to see the new pan when doing my next oil change.
 

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My 2010 had no plug but leaked around the pan a small amount. I was surprised to see the new pan when doing my next oil change.
Interesting. I wonder if you have a gasket there or silicon seal.
On my 2011 I don't remember having the silicone sealant, I think it was already a gasket there. Don't know if it was serviced by previous owner, based on color of fluid, I don't think so.

On my 2000 Sonata, that I got almost new, the valve cover had indeed the same bead of sealant.
 

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Interesting. I wonder if you have a gasket there or silicon seal.
On my 2011 I don't remember having the silicone sealant, I think it was already a gasket there. Don't know if it was serviced by previous owner, based on color of fluid, I don't think so.

On my 2000 Sonata, that I got almost new, the valve cover had indeed the same bead of sealant.
I'll be servicing my transmission before too long and I will find out if there is a gasket, sure hope so or I will buy some gasket material and make my own.
 
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