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Discussion Starter #1
Instead of the panel LED light kit that most stores sell like the one here from Shark Racing...




I wanted to go with a more single bulb LED look. So I went ahead and bought these LED's to go for my brake lights, my back turn signals, and my backup lights:

Turn Signal LED

Brake LED

Backup LED

It's a single bulb of LED's instead of a flat panel.

And for $40 total (including shipping), I'm paying a lot less for them. I'm not trying to pick on Shark Racing by the way, all the online part stores sell those panel LED's for that price.

I'll post pics after I get them. They were shipped yesterday so they should be here this weekend I hope.
 

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Goto kiaforums.com and find my LED relamping project.

I did this with the funny little clusters back in April. They work, but they are NOT as bright. They do look nice though.

Pay SPECIAL attention to the stuff about load resistors.....You WILL need two load resistors for each side. One for each signal LED, and one for each of the 1157s you get for the brake light part of the circuit.

You can probably get by the load resistors for the turn signals, but it would mean you figuring out how to replace your flasher unit with a solid state one.

Without these, the signal will "hyperflash"....and the MOST festive problem is when the Stability program light on your dash comes on and your cruise control stops working.

I just looked at those links.....the EXACT same ones I got in April, so you DO have to go find my posts on the load resistors. The turn signal thing will be merely "annoying" but you WILL have trouble with the stabilty control when that computer thinks you have no brakelights....and I noticed when that happens, the cruise can't be set anymore. It doesn't BREAK anything, but you they won't behave until you have resolved the load issue.

They do look nice though when you do all the things to get it right. I have PLENTY of pics on either kiaforums.com and/or here of the the tailights all apart and these resistors. And likely a few of the LEDs in action.

Sorry you'll have to slog through most of this thread, but kiaforums.com is NOT laid out as nice as here. This thread mostly represents all the REAL early adopters and the stuff we were doing. I was quite clearly having WAY too much fun with Soul...WAY too early :p

http://www.kia-forums.com/kia-soul-forum/50649-soul-mods-accessories.html

Also keep in mind that this was back in MARCH actually, and then sorta creeps up through April. Its sorta funny to read all this stuff I was gonna do, decided not to, then did ANYWAY....stuff I WANTED to do, etc
 

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Discussion Starter #4
why does the tail lights affect the cruise control and stability program?

according to this list:

Light List

The LED turn signals are 24watt while the stock bulb is 27 watt.

The LED brakes are 24watts.. while the stock bulb is 27/8 watts.

and the LED backup light doesn't say the watts but the stock bulb is 16 watt

I thought the turn signal is controlled inside by a clicker like every other car I've owned? I've had to replace a few of them throughout the years and it's a resistor thing under the dash that pops out.

Why would I need load resistors also?
 

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uummm.....read the link.

Short version. LEDs show no load, and are NOT the wattages you just posted. The brakelights are apparently part of the troubleshooting/diagnostics of the stabilty/ABS. The Stability/ABS will go offline when it doesn't see the brakelight side of the 1157. I don't know why the cruise is involved, but also trust me there. Cruise will come ON, but it will never set....likely because it monitors you hitting the brakes while it's set.

Don't question me.....it DOESN'T work if you don't do it right. The flasher circuit in almost every car you ever owned ALSO relies on the signal lamp drawing alot of current compared to an LED cluster.

Believe me.....I thought I could just throw LEDs in there as well. I had to work out this other stuff when I IMMEDIATELY had the flasher go hyper, and then notiiced the little "swerving car" icon on the dash.......and THEN noticed I also had no cruise.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok so the 25 Ohm, 25 watt load resistor worked? Sorry I'm skimming through that forum thread picking up bits and pieces.

and I have to get one for each light?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
oops I mean the 10 ohm, 25 watt resistor. I saw the pics of your wire setup behind the light.

Should I just search for these on ebay or did you have a good place to buy them?

Also I do not need a resistor for the backup lights correct? just the turn and brake lights.
 

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No....10 ohm, and "at least 20 watt" resistor. You can go more wattage but it will just be needlessly big.

Just search ebay for "load resistors"....and you can really find anything from 8ohms to around 15ohms, just pay attention that the watage covers the same bulb wattage. One clue is that you DID find those wattages. You have to go "just above" this wattage, so 20watts is actually a good number. You can go 50 watts, but it would be neddlessly large and you wouldn't be able to put them anywhere but inside the quarter panel (MUCH bigger drama)

I have been driving on the "10 ohm / 20 watt" recipe for a few months now, AND I have pulled the lights just to make sure I'm not melting or cooking anything since then.

And it's the BRAKE light part of the 1157 you are putting the resistor on. LEDs that just "stay on" are fine to just plug in.

The backup light should JUST work, and the TAILIGHT side of the 1157 will be fine as well.

You will need to show the flasher circuit the 10ohm "load" so the circuit stays happy and does it's thing.

You have to fool the Stability/ABS and cruise into thinking there IS a 10ohm "filament" in that circuit that is working.

The load resistors will get warm ONLY when the LED is on, so also pay attention that you don't do something weird like put them up in your headliner. That is why the resistor "looks serious", because it dissipates heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the info. I just bought two sets of:

Ebay Link

This is turning out to be almost the same cost as the custom made panel LED lights the stores sell. Wish I would have known earlier :(
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Ok got everything in the mail. Just a few questions for ya AiboPet.

For the turn signal wires.. in your pics it looks like there is one yellow and one black wire going to it. And it looks like you cut both wires. The two black ends looks like they are wired into one end of the resistor, and the two yellow ends looks like it's wired into the other end of the resistor. So 3 wires are capped for the black wire.. and 3 wires are capped for the yellow wire. Is this correct?

For the brake light.. leave the green wire alone. The red wire needs to be cut and both ends plus one end of the resistor is to be capped. The black wire is to be cut with both ends plus the other end of the resistor is to be capped. Is this correct?

How did you mount the resistor? I see there's a hole for a single screw but I'm guessing you just used black tape?

Ohh and these resistors will make the LED light output lower than normal correct? To correct that, I need to find 10 ohm resistors that have lower than 25 watts? or is it 25 watt resistors that have lower than 10 ohm resistance?
 

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No...they will not make the LED output different. you are not wiring them in "series". They are in "parrallel". They just make the circuit "draw" a little power to heat up that resistor just a bit. The flashing circuit relies on that draw for the bimetal flasher to "heat up" at the correct rate, and the brake's lights are part of the ABS/Stability logic, so THAT needs to see what "looks" like two working bulbs.

Parrallel means you have the resistor to the yellow(turn signal) and to ground (black), with the wire "unbroken" (but of course you do cut it to connect the resistor, or used a Scotch Block sort of tap)

And yes, I just used some 3M "trim" tape to mount those. It seems to be strong enough to hold the little resistors in place, offers a small bit of insulation between the plastic and the little resistors that warm up. I wanted to try that before I drove screws into anything.

I heard from someone who used the SharkRacing LED tailights, and I guess he also had to use load resistors, so they must not include one on the LED circuitboard and you have to still do these resistors.
 

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Your post with the little diagram posted WHILE I was saying all that up there.

Yeah, that is a good simple diagram of a load resistor in parrallel with the LED.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'll have these on tonight. Then post a new thread in the "How to/DIY" forum with pics with step by step instructions. Of course i'll give you credit on the resistor info :)

I'm sure more people will want to do this method since it's a lot cheaper than going the LED panel route. And like your pics on the other forum.. I like the little disco light display it does in the bulb housing.
 

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Yeah....I had done the "needlessly detailed" DIY on that forum BEFORE I was here.

My audio and the LED stuff was done (mostly) back in March/April. I did keep most the pictures though, so I post them HERE when I need to. I may still go with SharkRacing's tailights at some point.

I notice the LED turn signal doesn't garner enough attention now during the day. The side marker LEDs flashing likely help a LITTLE during the day. They are QUITE OBVIOUS at night.

I also still have to replace my backups with the style you ordered. Mine are nice and bright, but it's just nine LEDs all directed backwards. I need the sort you got with the LEDs around the sides....and still have that wedge "921" socket. I may end up having to spend "real" money on the backups because my backup cam is INSIDE the tinted window. Works great during the day, and then useless at night.

I will "end up" almost spending 200-250 bucks ANYWAY on those tailights after all the trial and error stuff. I woulda just done better to get the SharkRacing ones. If I do get those later, these little cluster things will just go into my 2001 Sportage. The 1156 and 1157 I think are the same bulb.
 

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We learn so much from you here in Holland.... thank you for that.
 
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