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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Kind of barely related. I had an 08 Honda Accord V6 with the system that shuts off 2 or 3 cylinders when just cruising. I forget what they call it. But there was a class action suit due to oil burning, rings getting stuck, engines going bang. Sound familiar?

Anyway they had an extended warranty to settle the suit, not a recall. Mine had the issue months after the time was up. An Indy shop clued me in. Then the local Honda dealer that I had never dealt with, kept it for a month, and gave me a Civic loaner for the month. Still cost me $900+ for repairs ( which was not new piston rings) but it could have been worse.

It's almost the season of goodwill here, right? Tday and Xmas, put on your Yamulke, Etc. I hope it gets fixed for a reasonable cost.
Cylinder deactivation, I think Honda calls it VCM. GM has had problems with their version of it too. Dumb “features” to save a couple ounces of gas. They make muzzlers to keep it from activating.

According to Grok and you do have to take what he says with a grain of salt, Kia and Hyundai have been under a lot of scrutiny lately because of all the engine issues, investigations, settlements, etc, and have been a little more lenient with goodwill. I hope Grok is right! Low miles and I log all my oil changes should help my case if it comes to that.
 
VCM, yes that was it. Every OEM has their recalls, issues, and duds. Bring your maint log to the party asap for sure.

Grok. They stole that name from an old scifi book, called umm.......
CRS kicking in again. :unsure:
Stranger in a Strange Land. The book, not the Iron Maiden song.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
The dealer seems to think the noise is coming from the clutch because the tech said it went away when he stepped on the clutch and also noticed it was a high clutch (it’s always been a high clutch, maybe that’s why I’ve always hated it with a passion.) I don’t ride the clutch and am pretty good with it. Maybe the previous owner wasn’t? I don’t know.

I am not totally convinced. They’re releasing it to me to tomorrow but I asked them to take a look at the oil because I could have sworn I saw it sparkle.

Update: Stepping on the clutch makes no difference, so I have no idea what the dealer is talking about. New video posted I'm stepping on and off the clutch, makes no difference.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Did they adjust the clutch or anything? Or just say drive on and report back?
$2300 for a clutch? Yikes $$$$.
No adjustments on hydraulic clutch’s, I don’t think there are anyway. But it sounded like the tech thinks it’s the release bearing. Yeah the price is steep, but not much cheaper at an independent shop, around 1,800.

Update: It's not the clutch.
 
.... also noticed it was a high clutch (it’s always been a high clutch, maybe that’s why I’ve always hated it with a passion.)
Well Google AI came to my rescue as I didn't know what a "high clutch" meant.

.... Maybe the previous owner wasn’t? I don’t know.

....
How many miles on the car when you bought it?

If I recall correctly this is the car you said sat on a dealer's lot for quite some time before you bought it.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Well Google AI came to my rescue as I didn't know what a "high clutch" meant.



How many miles on the car when you bought it?

If I recall correctly this is the car you said sat on a dealer's lot for quite some time before you bought it.
Yes, the original owner only drove it for about a year and put 12k miles on it, then it sat between the (Mitsubishi) dealer and an auction for a year before I bought it. Maybe he didn’t know how to a drive manual very well, I’ll never know the answer to that. But the clutch has always annoyed me but I never thought something was wrong with it.
 
Don't forget to try the method that bwdz75 told you about either. That will sure as hell let you know if the dealership tech knows what he's talking about or not.
 
In my past experience rod knock was evident upon deceleration rpms and not when revving up or holding rpms.
 
I guess better news than you imagined, but $2300 to replace a throw out bearing?!? Sounds insane.

Did they detail the results or work done for the brake line inspection/rustproofing? I still need to schedule that.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I guess better news than you imagined, but $2300 to replace a throw out bearing?!? Sounds insane.

Did they detail the results or work done for the brake line inspection/rustproofing? I still need to schedule that.
That crazy price is for the whole clutch kit, but yeah, they inspected the brake lines. No rot so they applied a waxy type of undercoat. If they found rot, they would have replaced the bad line.

Got the car back. According to the invoice the tech is deaf and is taking a wild guess. I have to take it to the car wash bay later and step on the clutch and see if the noise goes away. I am not yet convinced. I can faintly hear the noise driving on the highway, seems to be heard more when maintaining speed than under load or coasting, but it’s hard to hear from in the car anyway..

Also asked for an oil change. Asked them to use 5w30 but they used 0w20 so this dealer is just like the rest of them, they can’t follow simple instructions. Also shows they put in 5 quarts when the 1.6L holds just under 4. THIS IS WHY I DO MY OWN OIL CHANGES! At least they used good oil, Total Quartz full synthetic.
 
Expensive for sure. But I guess they need to pull the engine or trans to get at the clutch. No point in skimping on parts while they are in there. Replace everything that is even questionable. A fat bill, but you can't replace the car for anywhere near that money. So I guess bend over and pay. :cry:
 
....

Did they detail the results or work done for the brake line inspection/rustproofing? I still need to schedule that.
My brake lines passed inspection so they applied
I was told not to get the underside of the car wet for 2 hours. So makes me think maybe don't have an appointment on a rainy day.

Prior to scheduling the inspection I was told appointments were for mornings only - in case the brake lines needed to be replaced which could take upto 3 hours.

The link below details the procedure (includes color pics) for a Kia Forte (SC238A)
  • Inspection
  • Replacement
  • Anti-Corrosion Material Application
  • Preparation
  • Cleaning
  • Cavity Wax Application
  • Undercoating Spray Application
 
My brake lines passed inspection so they applied
I was told not to get the underside of the car wet for 2 hours. So makes me think maybe don't have an appointment on a rainy day.

Prior to scheduling the inspection I was told appointments were for mornings only - in case the brake lines needed to be replaced which could take upto 3 hours.

The link below details the procedure (includes color pics) for a Kia Forte (SC238A)
  • Inspection
  • Replacement
  • Anti-Corrosion Material Application
  • Preparation
  • Cleaning
  • Cavity Wax Application
  • Undercoating Spray Application
Wow, that is a thorough inspection and rustproofing. Thanks for that!
 
Flatsole:
Do you suppose that replacing the oil with 5w30 would make a difference in the noise you are now hearing??
 
Flatsole:
Do you suppose that replacing the oil with 5w30 would make a difference in the noise you are now hearing??
An internal engine noise can sometimes be quieted some with thicker oil. Although I think he was using 5w30 when he first heard the noise. If it's the throwout bearing like the dealer now suspects, then no. Engine oil viscosity would have no effect on the noise.
 
My brake lines passed inspection so they applied
I was told not to get the underside of the car wet for 2 hours. So makes me think maybe don't have an appointment on a rainy day.

Prior to scheduling the inspection I was told appointments were for mornings only - in case the brake lines needed to be replaced which could take upto 3 hours.

The link below details the procedure (includes color pics) for a Kia Forte (SC238A)
  • Inspection
  • Replacement
  • Anti-Corrosion Material Application
  • Preparation
  • Cleaning
  • Cavity Wax Application
  • Undercoating Spray Application
Being in Florida, I am guessing this brake line inspection/rustproofing thing is not for vehicles everywhere?
 
Got the car back. According to the invoice the tech is deaf and is taking a wild guess. I have to take it to the car wash bay later and step on the clutch and see if the noise goes away. I am not yet convinced. I can faintly hear the noise driving on the highway, seems to be heard more when maintaining speed than under load or coasting, but it’s hard to hear from in the car anyway..
External, wireless/bluetooth cellphone microphone on a rare earth magnet can be had cheap!
 
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