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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Bought my 2016 Base, manual transmission, 1.6 GDI in 2018. Kia certified with only 20k+ miles. Have had oil changes done at the dealer at least every 5k miles, and often I would change it in between because I simply enjoy working on cars and am OCD about oil. At around 75-80k miles I noticed it started using oil. Never did this before then, and it was using at least 1/2 quart every 1,000 miles, but more like 3/4 quart. Kia did oil consumption test and said only 0.4 quarts in 1,000 miles. I really think they don't know how to do the test as they change oil and simply add the spec capacity without looking at the dipstick, then when you go back in at 1,000 miles they measure how much to get it to full mark. Since it likely starts a little over the full mark (every time I checked after an oil change it was slightly over, not enough that I was concerned about foaming, but a little over). All this to say when I do my own oil changes in between theirs and measure exactly what it takes to put it precisely back on the full line, it was always between 1/2 to 3/4 quarts at 1,000 miles. Which is still less than 1 full quart for them to do anything so I was just going to keep after it, be extra diligent with changes, even considered doing Sea Foam treatments to maybe get some cleaning (since piston soak was next step if I was using over 1 qt/1k miles). But never got to that point. With just under 95k miles, and on my way home from a long trip, the engine started to tick. By the time I pulled into my driveway it sounded like a tin can with bolts rattling around. Very loud, very ominous sound. I took it very easy on it after the ticking sound and it still got much worse in the remaining ~50 miles of my trip. Made it to the dealer this morning and while it hasn't been officially diagnosed or approved for a replacement engine, I am very confident I was hearing chatter from a spun rod bearing. Wasn't immediately clear with the lighter ticking sound, but by the time I got home it was, and the service rep agrees with me. Really disappointed. This car is the most reliable trouble free car I've owned minus this, and a bad cat converter, which I'm sure happened due to burning oil. Of course this is all, or should be, covered by the certified preowned warranty. Will update with their official diagnosis and recommended fix/coverage.

Edited to add that yes I've kept up with and have had all recalls done. And I use full synthetic. Dealer has Total Quartz oil, when I did my own changes I used Pennzoil full synthetic. Stuck with recommended 5w20. And quality filters, either OEM or if I went aftermarket I always got the top end of whatever brand they had, not the cheapest filter available. And I check my oil often. I'm not a certified mechanic, but I know my way around a car and have NEVER had an engine go bad on me, in fact no major engine problems at all on any cars I've owned including Fords, Dodge's, Toyota's, Mazda's, Hyundai's, and Nissan's. I had a Nissan hardbody that had 225k miles when I sold it, and it ran like it was new when I did sell it, just had too many kids to fit into whatever I was driving at the time to keep it. Lastly, the Soul was running perfectly fine other than using oil. Had plenty of power, no lights on the dash saying there was a problem, and I was getting 37 mpg for the trip at the point the knock started, which in my experience is pretty good for the 1.6 on the highway...it seems to get thirsty if you exceed 70 mph.
 

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Sorry to hear about the issues. Hopefully Kia will honor the warranty. Seems that a lot of cars have been having problems since Direct injection has raised it's nasty head. I have also read that since about 2016 or so some if not all manufacturers have been making engines looser to reduce friction for gas mileage. No concrete proof but since so many have failed of all types lately it might make sense. After all GM has gone to a shutter system controlled by the thermostat in the grill to reduce air resistance. All for, what.001 more MPG. So I am glad I have an older Soul as ours has been trouble free in 85,000 miles
 

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Your assumption that they just fill it or overfill it is incorrect. The proper procedure is to put a little notch on the dipstick, usually at the full mark, and check it based on the amount of oil it takes to get back up to that exact spot. That is the procedure for doing oil consumption along with checking for oil leaks and the like.
Were you replacing the crush washer when you change your oil?
Sounds like you took pretty good care of the car so the CPO warranty should kick in and cover a rebuild or replacement.
 

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Did Kia extend your warranty for the rod bearing to 15 yr, 150k?
 
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For better consumption results.....
Next oil change-time, change viscosity to either 0w40 or 5w40. Use Severe Schedule .... meaning every 3.75k. You can use the same mid-quality, silicone ADBV oil filter for two OCIs.... 3.75 X 2.

Don;t sweat the small stuff.
These same engines see 10w40, 15w40 and 20w50 both south of the border and overseas.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry to hear about the issues. Hopefully Kia will honor the warranty. Seems that a lot of cars have been having problems since Direct injection has raised it's nasty head. I have also read that since about 2016 or so some if not all manufacturers have been making engines looser to reduce friction for gas mileage. No concrete proof but since so many have failed of all types lately it might make sense. After all GM has gone to a shutter system controlled by the thermostat in the grill to reduce air resistance. All for, what.001 more MPG. So I am glad I have an older Soul as ours has been trouble free in 85,000 miles
Totally agree on GDI and other fuel saving features that are proving unreliable or cause more problems than they solve, and in the case of GDI, emissions likely way worse ~70,000 miles in. My cat going out just before this is too coincidental, especially combined with it coming right after noticeable oil consumption started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Your assumption that they just fill it or overfill it is incorrect. The proper procedure is to put a little notch on the dipstick, usually at the full mark, and check it based on the amount of oil it takes to get back up to that exact spot. That is the procedure for doing oil consumption along with checking for oil leaks and the like.
Were you replacing the crush washer when you change your oil?
Sounds like you took pretty good care of the car so the CPO warranty should kick in and cover a rebuild or replacement.
I didn’t watch them do the consumption test so I could be wrong, but they almost always slightly overfill when they do an oil change and my consumption test started when I took it in for an oil change. And when I’ve done my own, where I patiently fill/check/fill/check until it’s at but not over full line, then checked how much to put it at the same spot after 1,000 miles, it was always at least a half qt or more. Meaningless though because I wasn’t using over a qt per 1k for sure. And I didn’t replace washer every time but they changed it every 5k miles. If I did it was at 2,500 miles or so in between their changes. And I had zero leaks. Not even a moist or dirty area where dust/debris could indicate a droplet oozing every few days. I’m not someone who would run it low and not know. Habitually check oil level at fill ups. It’s how I saw the sudden change in consumption around 70k. No low pressure light, it never got below safe level, ever. My experience tells me the 1.6 GDI is proving to be a disposable part. Ok if covered and yes mine should be. But it’s a damn shame to put that motor in an otherwise extremely reliable and trouble free car.
 

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Not that I’m aware of. Yet to be seen what ultimate solution and outcome on extended warranty will be.
Just a heads up, if the Kia warranty coverage is viable, more than likely the 3rd party extended warranty will deny coverage. Most of those policies require you to exhaust all avenues of repair available before they will pay, even if that means you have to "engage" Kia in a dispute.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Kia coming through and making it right. New motor (refurb block with all new mechanics), loaner while it’s being done, and warranty turns into lifetime on engine. The rep was reading a flow chart on what warranty applies and he said looks like you’d have lifetime coverage on replacement. Hard to beat standing behind their product like that. Wish original went 200k-300k like most cars I’ve owned, but I do recognize if this happened with many other manufacturers I’d be SOL, and especially would be on my own at 100k miles. I’ll remain a Kia customer.
 

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Kia coming through and making it right. New motor (refurb block with all new mechanics), loaner while it’s being done, and warranty turns into lifetime on engine. The rep was reading a flow chart on what warranty applies and he said looks like you’d have lifetime coverage on replacement. Hard to beat standing behind their product like that. Wish original went 200k-300k like most cars I’ve owned, but I do recognize if this happened with many other manufacturers I’d be SOL, and especially would be on my own at 100k miles. I’ll remain a Kia customer.
Fantastic news!
 
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@RDinPA,

Did you ever use an intake valve and turbo cleaner?

Did you ever clean or replace the PCV valve?

I am also curious as to what type of driving you do. Flat? Hills? Short distances? Long distances? Urban stop 'n go? Mostly highway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
@RDinPA,

Did you ever use an intake valve and turbo cleaner?

Did you ever clean or replace the PCV valve?

I am also curious as to what type of driving you do. Flat? Hills? Short distances? Long distances? Urban stop 'n go? Mostly highway?
Kia dealer did an intake cleaning when I first noticed oil consumption. I don't think it really did anything. Yes, I replaced the PCV. And I don't think that did anything either. The PCV I removed wasn't clogged and check valve was still moving around inside freely. Driving is mixed. A lot of short distances and hills on country/suburban roads with a long 1k+ mile round trip thrown in I'd say every other month or so on average, but had done 4 of those trips in past two months. Spun the bearing, or at least when it was audibly noticeable, while passing on an interstate and approaching 80mph, which gets the RPMs pretty high in that 1.6. I mostly cruz just over 70, which is upper speed limit on most interstates I travel. I do think it's a bad setup for highway driving (unless you're the granny in the right lane people zoom past continually) and I will likely try to use it less on long distance high speed trips. Even at 70, it's definitely over 3,000RPM's. Maintain that for 8-10 hours and those hamsters are spinning that wheel hard. But I've always used synthetic oil, good synthetic oil kept clean and changed, felt confident any car made today would last no matter the driving if properly maintained. Mechanic mentioned something about steel bearings in an aluminum block, and the wear being predictable as a result. Also mentioned there was a factory source that had less than ideal cleanliness and most that go bad came from there (which they do NOT source from any longer)...dirt/filings in bad places lead to premature wear early, which then starts the snowball rolling. Just relaying things mentioned in discussions...not sure about any of those specifics.
 

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Kia dealer did an intake cleaning when I first noticed oil consumption. I don't think it really did anything. Yes, I replaced the PCV. And I don't think that did anything either. The PCV I removed wasn't clogged and check valve was still moving around inside freely. Driving is mixed. A lot of short distances and hills on country/suburban roads with a long 1k+ mile round trip thrown in I'd say every other month or so on average, but had done 4 of those trips in past two months. Spun the bearing, or at least when it was audibly noticeable, while passing on an interstate and approaching 80mph, which gets the RPMs pretty high in that 1.6. I mostly cruz just over 70, which is upper speed limit on most interstates I travel. I do think it's a bad setup for highway driving (unless you're the granny in the right lane people zoom past continually) and I will likely try to use it less on long distance high speed trips. Even at 70, it's definitely over 3,000RPM's. Maintain that for 8-10 hours and those hamsters are spinning that wheel hard. But I've always used synthetic oil, good synthetic oil kept clean and changed, felt confident any car made today would last no matter the driving if properly maintained. Mechanic mentioned something about steel bearings in an aluminum block, and the wear being predictable as a result. Also mentioned there was a factory source that had less than ideal cleanliness and most that go bad came from there (which they do NOT source from any longer)...dirt/filings in bad places lead to premature wear early, which then starts the snowball rolling. Just relaying things mentioned in discussions...not sure about any of those specifics.
Yeah RD, I can't image taking the 1.6 to redline very often. It sounds like it's going to blow up.

I'm at 2,500 RPM at 60, 3,000 at 70. It handles that pretty good, but getting over 4,000 regularly doesn't sound healthy.

I wish they spread out 5th and 6th gear a little more. They are too close together.
 
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.... Driving is mixed. A lot of short distances and hills on country/suburban roads with a long 1k+ mile round trip thrown in I'd say every other month or so on average, but had done 4 of those trips in past two months. Spun the bearing, or at least when it was audibly noticeable, while passing on an interstate and approaching 80mph, which gets the RPMs pretty high in that 1.6. I mostly cruz just over 70, which is upper speed limit on most interstates I travel. ....
Thanks. That once a month or more 1K + mile round trip at 70 mph should be enough to keep the engine relatively clean. I doubt Italian tune-ups would change much.

I got say RDinPA: Of all the folks who show up here with serious problems on a 2nd generation Soul, you might have done the very best job of overall maintenance.

FWIW, we are performing a once a year CRC intake valve cleaning though whether it is actually helping that much or not, I am not sure. Judging from CRC's recommendation, we could probably get away with a once every 2 years application; CRC recommends once every 10K miles.

5W20 extended performance synthetic oil. 650 ml or 0.69 US quarts of motor oil added over 7,196 km or 4,471 miles. Going back and forth over mountain ranges (Coastal, Rockies) tends to use up oil. Around the village or 3 hour round trips to the nearest small city do not noticeably use up oil.

Currently at 74,887 km or 46,533 miles, which is still shy of the distance at which these 2nd generation Souls tend to exhibit problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks. That once a month or more 1K + mile round trip at 70 mph should be enough to keep the engine relatively clean. I doubt Italian tune-ups would change much.

I got say RDinPA: Of all the folks who show up here with serious problems on a 2nd generation Soul, you might have done the very best job of overall maintenance.

FWIW, we are performing a once a year CRC intake valve cleaning though whether it is actually helping that much or not, I am not sure. Judging from CRC's recommendation, we could probably get away with a once every 2 years application; CRC recommends once every 10K miles.

5W20 extended performance synthetic oil. 650 ml or 0.69 US quarts over 7,196 km or 4,471 miles. Going back and forth over mountain ranges (Coastal, Rockies) tends to use up oil. Around the village or 3 hour round trips to the nearest small city do not noticeably use up oil.

Currently at 74,887 km or 46,533 miles, which is still shy of the distance at which these 2nd generation Souls tend to exhibit problems.
I think I’ll try to incorporate CRC intake cleaning in the maintenance routine. Will also do first oil change in 1,000 miles or less. As I stated, I purchased this one at ~20k miles so who knows what was done in that time, though I did see at least a couple oil changes on carfax report. And lastly, going to look for a magnetic drain plug. Further research indicates metal shavings/burrs from manufacturing process can clog oil ports and starve critical components like rod bearings of lubrication. Magnetic plug might just help with that. Would expect filter to catch that as well but a plug is cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got car back two days ago. New motor and had them replace clutch as well, obviously paid for the clutch. Drove car 550 miles. Got underneath because I wanted to swap oil out before a trip I'm taking and splash guard under motor is soaked with oil. Sitting back at the dealer waiting to see what they say. Looks like main seal. I appreciate the warranty and customer service but damn, the back and forth is maddening.
 

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Got car back two days ago. New motor and had them replace clutch as well, obviously paid for the clutch. Drove car 550 miles. Got underneath because I wanted to swap oil out before a trip I'm taking and splash guard under motor is soaked with oil. Sitting back at the dealer waiting to see what they say. Looks like main seal. I appreciate the warranty and customer service but damn, the back and forth is maddening.
Hang in there. It'll get better.
 

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Got car back two days ago. New motor and had them replace clutch as well, obviously paid for the clutch. Drove car 550 miles. Got underneath because I wanted to swap oil out before a trip I'm taking and splash guard under motor is soaked with oil. Sitting back at the dealer waiting to see what they say. Looks like main seal. I appreciate the warranty and customer service but damn, the back and forth is maddening.
Dang, sorry to hear that RD. It's always something eh? It's a good thing you got down and found that leak, hopefully before any damage was caused.

Like Hammerhead says, hang in there. We're all pulling for you!
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks! So they said it was just residual oil on the plastic cover they forgot to clean off. I was skeptical. Didn’t argue, but checked my oil in lot before leaving. Entire dipstick tube came out with dipstick. Was sitting in there loose with no o-ring at base. Marched back in, showed service rep, they reinstalled tube with o-ring and it’s now secure. Topped off oil as well. Now question is, was that where oil was leaking? They weren’t clear but I can’t see how it wouldn’t have at least splashed enough for me to see the oil I saw. Glad if so because it’s then not the main seal. And goes to show, HAVE to be an educated consumer. I’m damn sure 90% of drivers would have not known until 5,000 mile oil change, or low oil pressure light came on because it all leaked out.
 
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