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I'm sorry that you're having to deal with this during the holidays Mike. Are they suppying you with a rental or loaner? Now's the time to get your hands and eyes on that extended warranty (you should have the paperwork you signed) and read through all that fine print so you know your rights in case they try to offer less than you're owed. Good luck and keep us in the loop. ?
The warranty papers are cleverly written. If I can get a good picture of the "not covered" section, I'll post it. If it comes back as not covered, this is where my argument to the contrary would begin. May take time, as this would likely require an in depth look into root cause of the mechanical failure, which is both time and labor intensive for both parties.
 

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I'll add 1 more video on oil changes, late or otherwise

 
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According to this video, the 5W in either is what pertains the viscosity of the oil when cold-starting your engine, and the 20 or 30 in the second number pertains to the viscosity of that oil at 100°C. So wouldn't a 5W30 be better in your warmer climate? Am I missing something? I'm just trying to understand this topic better for applying to my own car and climate conditions.
Correct - 5W20 and 5W30 have the same base stock so they start the same. the 5W30 uses different/additional viscosity modifiers. Given they use the same base stock, the 5W30 isn't going to lubricate better. But, as Sportsterdoc points out, the higher viscosity will have a harder time getting around rings and seals so you burn less of it, which also benefits the spark plugs.

The bottom line (at least for me): use Kia recommended oil unless you are burning a lot. Kia designed the engine with 5W20 in mind - from page 8-8:

For better fuel economy, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-20 (API SM / ILSAC GF-4). However, if the engine oil is not available in your country, select the proper engine oil using the engine oil viscosity chart.

My interpretation of that statement is there is no advantage to not running 5w20 unless you can't find some.

I will check mine more often and if the engine is starting to use oil at a rate more than a quart every 3K or so, I'll take Sportsterdoc's advice and switch

Edit: after posting this I starting thinking about the original Mobile 1. It came out in 1974 as a 5W20 weight. People were scared to use it because of it's low viscosity (we ran a lot of 10W40 and even 10W50 back then), but the stuff worked. Another interesting note is back then, Mobile used a synthetic base stock - it was a true synthetic oil and very high quality. They lost a law suit against Castrol that used a petroleum (oil) base , but still called it synthetic. This is why most synthetics, including Mobile 1, now use an oil base stock so they can be price competitive. Still good oils, but not as good as they once were.
 

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The bottom line (at least for me): use Kia recommended oil unless you are burning a lot...
Not wanting to incite a debate, just provide info for consideration:
The piston compression rings and oil ring are designed to (a) minimize oil in combustion chamber, (b) maintain compression and (c) keep the fuel mixture from contaminating the oil.

If oil is consumed at even 1/2 quart per 3,000 miles, not a PCV issue, chances are that the oil also is being contaminated by fuel, which dilutes viscosity and the cycle worsens as fuel diluted oil accelerates wear.

Hence the advantage of switching to 5W30 or 10W30 early on.

See post 78 snapshot of online service manual item 1, to check quality/appearance/contamination of oil.
 

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Not necessarily, but recommended the viscosity to maximize fuel economy, which may be a compromise to longevity.

Interesting, so there might be some truth to the video I posted here? :
I came across this video with a title that matches the recent discussion, and although I can't vouch for any truth behind what's stated in it, I'm sure someone here will have an opinion. ?

 

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For peach of mind, its worth having an oil sample tested for about $35 which will show any contaminants in the oil. I did one on mine shortly after buying the car used and the report showed none in the oil. I'm still using 5-20, the last change recently at 35K but will probably to to 5-30 at the next change at 40K. I use WIX samplers but Blackstone is also used by a lot of folks. Plan on doing another test at the 40K mark.
 

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My first oil change at my dealership, I asked for Mobile1 full synthetic. No weight specified. They used 5W30 and also in the next two changes. They service 1,000's of these cars, will talk with them about this next change.
I will specify 5W30 to be sure it's used in the future, along with oil development considerations for GDI.
 

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Since I mentioned early multi viscosity oil, this link is insightful


(No, I do not nor have I ever owned a Cadillac)

Interesting comments on 5W30 versus 10W30.

BTW, I am not criticisimg modern multiviscosity oils. My Moto Guzxi V7II did very well with Motoul (sourced from France) 10W60 from over 8,500 feet in the local mountains to Death Valley, temps from at freezing to 116F.
 

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My oil changes have all been at the dealer since new. They use 5W-30.
 
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Hey kerig, have you seen this one? For guys like us who change oil once a year due to low mileage. Interesting?

 
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Hey kerig, have you seen this one? For guys like us who change oil once a year due to low mileage...
How short or infrequent are your trips?
Under the following, minimum oil changes are 3700 miles or 6 months.

SEVERE DRIVING CONDITIONS
A - Repeatedly driving shorts distanse of less than 5 miles in normal temperature or less than 10miles in freezing temperature
B - Extensive engine idling or low speed driving for long distances
C - Driving on rough, dusty, muddy, unpaved, graveled or salt-spread roads
D - Driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in very cold weather
E - Driving in sandy areas
F - Driving in heavy traffic area over 90°F (32°C)
G - Driving on uphill, downhill, or mountain road
H - Towing a Trailer, or using a camper, or roof rack
I - Driving as a patrol car, taxi, other commercial use or vehicle towing
J - Driving over 100 MPH
K - Frequently driving in stop-and-go conditions
 

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How short or infrequent are your trips?
Under the following, minimum oil changes are 3700 miles or 6 months.

SEVERE DRIVING CONDITIONS
A - Repeatedly driving shorts distanse of less than 5 miles in normal temperature or less than 10miles in freezing temperature
B - Extensive engine idling or low speed driving for long distances
C - Driving on rough, dusty, muddy, unpaved, graveled or salt-spread roads
D - Driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in very cold weather
E - Driving in sandy areas
F - Driving in heavy traffic area over 90°F (32°C)
G - Driving on uphill, downhill, or mountain road
H - Towing a Trailer, or using a camper, or roof rack
I - Driving as a patrol car, taxi, other commercial use or vehicle towing
J - Driving over 100 MPH
K - Frequently driving in stop-and-go conditions
I'm an A.
Manually avoid the others.
Haven't done J, yet.
Annual oil changes at 4,000+ miles.
 

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How short or infrequent are your trips?
Under the following, minimum oil changes are 3700 miles or 6 months.
Luckily my trips are about 40 miles on open freeway Doc, about 60-70 mph. No stop n go except short drive to freeway. I put the stick shift in 6 & leave it there. Vroom!
 

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Hey kerig, have you seen this one? For guys like us who change oil once a year due to low mileage. Interesting?


Wow, that was quick Geo, that video was just posted 7 hours ago!
I think you might have me confused with another low mileage driver, LOL. Although my wife's commute is less than 3 miles round-trip daily, I've already committed to having oil changes done every 3,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. And according to maintenance records, the previous owner did just that and also must have been a low mileage driver since the car was almost 5 years old and had only 16k on the odometer when we got it. In fact, the first thing I did after buying the car was to have an oil change, which was most likely unnecessary, but I wanted it to have a "clean" start with its new owner.

According to the video it doesn't seem to be as important to change the oil so often, and for me it's probably overkill. Our previous car, the Chrysler minivan, would only get changes every 3,000 miles using conventional oil, and it would take about a year to reach that theshhold. But knowing the low milage history of the Soul and continuing with low mileage drives daily, I'd feel better personally keeping the oil clean. We also experience pretty harsh winters and ungodly hot summers here, which also cannot be good for the oil.

Sure, I could save a few bucks having it changed less frequently, and I'll most-likely be less worried now should I miss an oil change by a month or three, but it's already been budgeted for within our tight family budget. You see, the same month that we got the Soul my wife had just paid off a credit card that she had been paying down religiously for years. And since the Soul hadn't come with any warranty we decided to open a "car-repair & maintenance" savings account that we'll be adding to monthly with that card payment. When we were looking into buying an extended warranty on the Soul we considered the extended warranties we had purchased with our previous vehicles and how they usually pay out very little and never cover wear items or maintenance costs. Additionally the car always outlasted those warranties, exactly at the time the vehicle needed it the most. So why give some insurance company my money to cover so very little, right? I'm not a big fan of the insurance "racket". ? And if we're lucky enough to have money in that account by the time we need a new car, we'll have a down-payment for our first electric flying car! ?

One thing that I did come away with from the video is that I will change my driving habit to make sure to get our engine some longer duration or highway driving at least once a month! ?
 
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Luckily my trips are about 40 miles on open freeway Doc, about 60-70 mph. No stop n go except short drive to freeway. I put the stick shift in 6 & leave it there. Vroom!
That is ideal for burning off condensation in oil.

Interesting to know that some dealers use 5W30 as standard practice.

Think I have preached as strong as I can to encourage not running 5W20...so, I am stepping off the soap box in this thread.

If post 106 did not convince, on the point of oil dillution, then hopefully rapidly escalating oil consumption will be noticed before an engine seizure.
 

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That is ideal for burning off condensation in oil.

Interesting to know that some dealers use 5W30 as standard practice.

Think I have preached as strong as I can to encourage not running 5W20...so, I am stepping off the soap box in this thread.

If post 106 did not convince, on the point of oil dillution, then hopefully rapidly escalating oil consumption will be noticed before an engine seizure.
I agree Doc, you've done all you can. Isn't there an old saying "You can lead a horse to 5w30, but you can't make him drink it?" :)

My thanks for all your efforts on oil education. I've learned quite a bit from you this year.

Happy holidays!
 
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Happy holidays indeed!

I have an update on my soul. After a little back and forth, and being a lucky one who saves service records (like oil changes)(they seriously asked for every oil change service record since I took ownership of the vehicle, and I happily provided them), my extended warranty is going to cover a replacement short block. Total cost to me is $180. I don't normally get an extended warranty, but in this case, I am glad someone, somehow, had me get one.

I agree with what we've all discussed here in regards to our souls oil needs and have put a plan in place for the possibility of future issues. I thank you all for help in my journey.
 
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