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I have about 33K miles on my Soul+. I now hear a grinding sound as the car slows just before stopping. For example, in normal driving, going from say 35 MPH to a stop at a comfortable normal pace, at about 5 MPG until the stop, I hear a grinding sound from both front wheels. When I use a bright flashlight to see the pads, there is plenty of life left. Also, the discs are perfectly smooth, not scalloped like say some of my older cars were.

I was concerned that the brakes were going, so I checked to see if the car has brake wear warning lights and found that they are supposed to squeal as the time to replace the pads approaches.

Of course I can take it to a dealer but I'd expect them to invent a problem not covered by the warranty.

I wonder if my experience is unique or common.

Thanks,

Powerharp
 

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2017 KIA Soul base, Titanium. Bought some better taars.
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You could have a rock or sand stuck somewhere. That's also the sound of worn brakes.
 

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Being a DIY guy, I'd just take both brakes apart and see what's going on with them.
It's easy and don't take too long. Make sure there's no rocks caught up in there.

I just changed my own front brake pads earlier this summer. The old pads were not completely worn out, but I'd had a set of Wagner Ceramics sitting on the shelf in my shop for over six months and I just decide it was time to put them on. Now I wish I'd of done it months before, because they almost doubled my stopping power. They were pretty cheap, at "Rock Auto".

When I'm coming off of I-75 at 80mph, and I only have about 300' to stop, I need all the braking I can get. And now I have all I need.
I always shift down to let the engine and AT soak up some of the speed. It works a treat!

Good Luck, and happy motoring,
FL Hamster :cool:
 

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I have about 33K miles on my Soul+. I now hear a grinding sound as the car slows just before stopping. For example, in normal driving, going from say 35 MPH to a stop at a comfortable normal pace, at about 5 MPG until the stop, I hear a grinding sound from both front wheels. When I use a bright flashlight to see the pads, there is plenty of life left. Also, the discs are perfectly smooth, not scalloped like say some of my older cars were.
I was concerned that the brakes were going, so I checked to see if the car has brake wear warning lights and found that they are supposed to squeal as the time to replace the pads approaches.
Are you familiar with the brakes? Are you sure you are seeing the pad friction material and not just the back plate? Yes, the lights should come on, if the wire is still connected. That system is so unreliable that many manufacturers stopped using it. They rely on the mechanical screech, that's less prone to failures. Of course some drivers might just turn the radio louder :)
You need to take the wheel off and check.

I had a work colleague that said the same that the screeching noise while braking is just a scam so he didn't do anything. Till one day the wheel solidly locked up, had to be towed from intersection. The brake pad had just the backing metal left and it dug into the disc and melted. Damaged the caliper pins too and probably the caliper itself because of the temperature. He was lucky he didn't kill himself or someone else.

If you are afraid of dealer charges, do it at a smaller independent shop that has good reviews. Or even better, do it yourself. And no, brake pad wear is not covered by warranty, the same way they don't "cover" your gas tank becoming empty while driving.

I always shift down to let the engine and AT soak up some of the speed. It works a treat!
So... instead of wearing the easy to replace brake pads, you choose to wear out the clutches inside the automatic transmission. Nowhere in the owner manual they say to use "automatic transmission to brake", this is not a manual transmission.

Of course what that AT going to fail (or start to), you will try to "trade the car in" (dump your judgment errors on somebody else) and get another bank loan for a new car (because that's the American way, being in debt forever).
But hey, you can brag you didn't need do any maintenance on the car! And that would be OK, except the part where you will try to trick the next buyer in buying something that you ruined. I am one of those "next buyers".
 

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I have about 33K miles on my Soul+. I now hear a grinding sound as the car slows just before stopping. For example, in normal driving, going from say 35 MPH to a stop at a comfortable normal pace, at about 5 MPG until the stop, I hear a grinding sound from both front wheels. When I use a bright flashlight to see the pads, there is plenty of life left. Also, the discs are perfectly smooth, not scalloped like say some of my older cars were.

I was concerned that the brakes were going, so I checked to see if the car has brake wear warning lights and found that they are supposed to squeal as the time to replace the pads approaches.

Of course I can take it to a dealer but I'd expect them to invent a problem not covered by the warranty.

I wonder if my experience is unique or common.

Thanks,

Powerharp
When you look at the pads, look at both the inner and outer. My slides were not lubricated properly and only the inner pad wore out on both front. There was plenty of pad left on the outboard.
 

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So... instead of wearing the easy to replace brake pads, you choose to wear out the clutches inside the automatic transmission. Nowhere in the owner manual they say to use "automatic transmission to brake", this is not a manual transmission.
Hard to say. The owner's manual doesn't really address it in detail, but it does say to slow down before downshifting. Kia Soul: Good driving practices - Automatic transaxle - Driving your vehicle - Kia Soul 2009-2013 AM Owner Manual

It also says the tranny will downshift automatically when braking in Sport mode. Kia Soul: Automatic transaxle operation - Automatic transaxle - Driving your vehicle - Kia Soul 2009-2013 AM Owner Manual

I can't seem to find any references to hauling ass on an off ramp and using the auto tranny to help slow the vehicle down. LOL
 

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The "sports" mode will not let you stall or damage the engine:

"In sports mode, downshifts are made automatically when the vehicle slows down. When the vehicle stops, 1st gear is automatically selected.
In sports mode, when the engine rpm approaches the red zone shift points are varied to upshift automatically."
Also they say:
"Slow down before shifting to a lower gear. Otherwise, the lower gear may not be engaged."

When you try to downshift too violently, it will stay on a higher gear, based on RPM. It will still wear internal clutches, it's physics. The car kinetic energy needs to be dissipated as heat, generated by friction somewhere. Brake pads and discs are cheap, so... On hybrid cars, some of that energy gets stored in the batteries.
 

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I know that replacing the pads depends on your driving habits, but what's the ballpark mileage around which they are changed?

I'm still on my original factory brakes and my car has 48,000 miles now. My brakes currently squeal/squeak for the first 5 minutes of operating my car, but it goes away after that. I'm thinking it's probably brake dust that's accumulated and getting trapped, but I'll take a peek.

I do a lot of cruise control and coasting, only applying brakes as necessary
 

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Some of the "ceramic" brakes will squeal when cold, especially now in colder weather. After a few braking cycles they warm up and stay kind of warm (city driving with frequent braking).
 

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And, especially if you're in a humid or rainy place and don't use the car every day, you can get a little surface rust on the rotor that takes a few stops to wear clean.
 

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Don't trust the low brake "squealer" to tell you the state of the brakes. All it is, is a piece of metal bent towards the rotor so that when the pad gets low enough, it starts dragging on the rotor to scream. If the metal is not bent properly or it is slightly off-kilter, it might not start dragging the rotor until you are way beyond where you should have replaced the pads. Also, as someone else mentioned, you might get more wear on one pad than the other. They should wear evenly but it doesn't always happen. Sometimes the caliper pressure isn't even, or the material on one pad is softer than another.

The best thing to do is as Techno advised - pop off the wheel, unhook the caliper and take a good look at the pads. It literally takes about 10 minutes to jack and stand the car, pull off the wheel and caliper and pop the pads out of the clips. If the pads are good (I'm going to bet they are done), put a very light coat of high-temp grease on the pad backs (don't get any on the rotor or the pad faces), put it back together, light coat of grease on the caliper slide pin bolts.
 

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After replacing my own front disk brake pads this past summer, I now know for sure what a simple job it is.

And, even new pads are so cheap, that it's not worth messing around with them....just get them changed.
I used a set of Wagner Ceramics, that I bought from Rock Auto. They practically Doubled my stopping power.

If a backyard mechanic like me can do the whole job in less than an hour (both sides) a pro with a hoist and an Air Wrench, should be able to do the job in about 30 minutes.

Good Luck,
FL Hamster :cool:
 

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Depending on wear and temperature, the "grinding" you are hearing may simply be the normal friction between rotors and pads.
Being that this car is not heavily insulated, most all sounds infiltrate the cabin in one way or another.
Tire noise, expansion joints, braking...all find their way in.
 

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According to 'The Book', new front pads are 10mm thick. And, when they get down to just 2mm thick, they are supposed to be changed. In states that do Car Inspections, that would probably be enforced. A couple of my pads were indeed down to 2mm or even less, but the squeakers were still silent. And I also noticed that the inside pads and the outside pads do NOT wear evenly.

So depending on the driver, and where he drives, and how much he uses his (or her) brakes, they should probably be given a close up inspection around 50k miles, or maybe even less. Based on that inspection, a plan can be set as to when the pads should actually be replaced.

When I inspected my own pads, and found more than one of them worn down to <>2mm, I decided to go ahead and replace the old pads with the new ones I already had on-hand.

I know there are a lot of good brake pads out there in 'Parts Land', but I put on the Wagner Ceramic pads that I had already bought from Rock Auto on a really great SALE. Those new pads have almost doubled my stopping power.

Cheers mates!
FL Hamster :cool:
 

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The pads not wearing even is usually because the slide pins aren't lubed or caliper is sticking and thus the forces are not the same on both sides. Had a car many MANY moons ago that would burn up the inside pad to nothing and outside looked new but have since learned about slide pin lube! :)
 

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Majority of home brake pad replacements are done improperly. The caliper itself requires to take out two more bolts (to be maintained), but is seldom done. They don't clean old, caked, grease, and even when they do, sometimes don't use new proper brake lube (high temperature) for the caliper components, they use whatever they have around the house.

Others... just turn the radio louder when the squealing bothers them:

1024_galant.jpg
 

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I would say that if you don't know what half of the stuff the old SoNic said . Take the car to a mechanic that you can trust.
I had so many bad experiences with mechanics around my area that i can write a novel. I took my cars to the mechanics cause i either had no time or didn't understand what was going on (problem with like ECU) . Now I will park the car and try to research and get proper tools to fix it myself.

Trouble shooting breaks in the car properly will come with experience. No book or training will teach you everything. You still might not seen everything after years of that experience collecting.

Who knows You might have air in the hydraulic system that causes chatter.... . You could have sand like someone else said in the pads. It could be anything and if someone tells you that they know 100%, they are full of it cause they are not 100% sure. BTW that comes with experience too.

Or just replace it all and problem might go away.

Have it check out . if it's all good and no problem . ignore it till the replacement of the breaks
 

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Posters who come, post, and then never come back should be taken out back and shot, or at least roughed up a little bit :D OP asked about the brakes almost a month ago and then never came back to tell us anything. Maybe you should have to insert a credit card to make a post, and you keep getting charged 25 cents per day until you come back and close out the post with a resolution.
 

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Posters who come, post, and then never come back should be taken out back and shot, or at least roughed up a little bit :D OP asked about the brakes almost a month ago and then never came back to tell us anything. Maybe you should have to insert a credit card to make a post, and you keep getting charged 25 cents per day until you come back and close out the post with a resolution.

They should be on the 1 hit wonder list!
 
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