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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So we have 2013. About 2-3 weeks ago it died while my wife was driving. No warnings, just lost all power. About 20-30 minutes later it started up. I drove it for the next few days and beat the hell out of it, trying to get it to duplicate the issue. Never happened. It just broke down again 20 minutes ago with no warning. I changed the fuel pump a few months ago because it was going bad. Any ideas what it could be?
 

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If you have a code reader and the car dies again, do not turn the ignition off to try to restart just scan it right there and then. For some reason they won't store the code for a crank position sensor if you shut it off and try to restart it again.
 

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2014 Titanium Stick Shift Pacific NW
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Just got the car home and it started right up again
How are the grounding points under the hood? Check that they are tight and free of corrosion. Also check that battery cables are tight.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you have a code reader and the car dies again, do not turn the ignition off to try to restart just scan it right there and then. For some reason they won't store the code for a crank position sensor if you shut it off and try to restart it again.
Unfortunately I don’t have a code reader.
 

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Had the same exact thing happen a month or so ago, it was the crankshaft position sensor as already stated.

A regular code reader wont show anything. I used a diagnostic tool. It wasnt throwing any codes a regular code reader would ahow.

It was a $25 part and took 5 minutes to replace
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One other thing, a cps usually goes bad in a heat situation- the classic is where you drive to the store for an errand, come out 10 minutes later and engine cranks but won’t start. 30 minutes later, after the engine has cooled, the car starts as if nothing was ever the matter.
Wow that is exactly what it was doing. Only when she was driving for about a 30 minutes. But the last time I’d died was 3 weeks ago. Still think it could be the cause? I’ll buy the cps right now lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
One other thing, a cps usually goes bad in a heat situation- the classic is where you drive to the store for an errand, come out 10 minutes later and engine cranks but won’t start. 30 minutes later, after the engine has cooled, the car starts as if nothing was ever the matter.
Also the car was driving when it died the first time. Lost all power. Second time she was in traffic
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Those are all classic CPS symptoms. Make sure the old o ring comes out when you pull the sensor and lube the new o ring when installing so that it seats all the way in or you'll have problems.
So changed out the cps. Car was fine for two days. Last night it died on me on the way home again. I heard the fuel pump prime and tried to restart it. Started up while idling really rough and died immediately. Tried a few more times and realized the pump was no longer priming. Had it towed again to my house. Changed the fuel pump and it started up. Gonna change the relay and hopefully be done with everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You said you changed the fuel pump a few months ago. Was it genuine Kia? You may have a warranty on the part which certainly doesn’t cover your aggravation. Gives credence to the old adage “new doesn’t mean good”
Nah it was from rock auto. The new one is an oem replacement. I wondered why the old one looked a little funky and now I guess I know why. Hopefully this settles all my issues. Outside of this lately the car has been wonderful. I’ve used it like a pick up truck a lot lol. Battery in it lasted about 8 years. All I’ve had to do is tires, brakes and rotors, and regular oil changes. Paid it off a few years ago so even if I dumped $500 which I didn’t only about $200. Then I’m still making out.
 

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Nah it was from rock auto. The new one is an oem replacement. I wondered why the old one looked a little funky and now I guess I know why. Hopefully this settles all my issues. Outside of this lately the car has been wonderful. I’ve used it like a pick up truck a lot lol. Battery in it lasted about 8 years. All I’ve had to do is tires, brakes and rotors, and regular oil changes. Paid it off a few years ago so even if I dumped $500 which I didn’t only about $200. Then I’m still making out.
Considering new and used car prices right now, you could dump $1000.00 in it and still make out. Glad you got it fixed. Hopefully this takes care of the problem for good. I like to try to use OEM parts as much as I can (if price allows) especially on electrical parts. Seen many aftermarket parts that were junk right from the box.
 
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