[Shirley]

This past late spring (2016) we started having issues with this car loosing power when accelerating. So bad it would only go about 25- 30 mph going up a hill. We had to get on the shoulder of the highway. Talk about stresssss.... We had the codes read.... changed all coil packs, & plugs. Seemed to get better for a while........ Then here we go again. So after three months of intermittent issues, we get it to code again take it to the dealer, they say catalytic converter, we are by this time 200 miles over the 80,000 mile warranty for the converter, which the dealer wants 1400. before labor......... other shops cannot yet get the factory replacement one ........ so we go to a muffler shop 450. they install a universal about 3 weeks ago. Today the temps are up outside and here we go again! That is the one common thread it runs ok when the temps are cool outside. This is just about beyond the insane point. Because I drive an hour to work this is not a working relationship with me and this car!
Has anyone experienced this issue and what it might be?

 

[neodium]

Wow, a clogged up catalytic converter, it used to be common in the early 80's...but i haven't seen that in a long while. If it's still doing the same thing with a new one, there must be something else causing the problem.

 

[GeoSoul]

It's very important to have the shop identify why the catalytic converter failed. Failure is almost always due to another underlying problem, which if not resolved will quickly ruin a new catalytic converter.

The $1400 price is at the high end of what most places charge. If you shop around you can save almost half.

Good luck Shirley.

 

[DaveInMD]

You have hopefully eliminated back pressure as an issue, which leaves fuel and air delivery, for the mechanical part, easiest to check is the air path, look at, or replace, the air filter and the intake, there could be a mechanical obstruction. I would add fuel injector cleaner next, there is a KIA approved one. Next see if you can get a fuel delivery rate and verify the fuel pump and filter can supply it, if not remove the gas cap as a test first, if air can not enter, freely then the fuel will not flow out. My snow blower would fail under load as the fuel cap was restricted. Last and most likely the hardest to find someone to be able to verify is the engine control computer, it adjusts timing, fuel delivery through the injector as well as when the transmission, assuming an automatic, downshifts through the transmission computer, and who knows what else that could cause the symptoms.

 

[neodium]

A bad oxygen sensor, witch is near the catalytic converter could be the trouble maker. Sometimes you don't get any error code about it, even if it's bad (but not totally fried).

 

[GeekOnTheHill]

It could also be the Intake Air Temperature sensor, or possibly (but less likely) the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. They're both notorious for causing all manner of problems but not throwing codes when they misbehave.

The IAT is pretty easy to check with a diagnostic scanner.

 

[FLHamster]

Considering that every sensor on the engine (and, most of those have already been mentioned) must have a good ground path to the battery, and that the normal path is long and full of painted connections, the quick fix, at least for troubleshooting purposes, would be to connect a ground cable from the Engine directly to the NEG terminal on the battery.

For me that would be step ONE!
Even a battery Jumper Cable would do, for troubleshooting purposes.

Without good grounds, all other attempts at a repair are just like throwing wet spaghetti against the wall to see what sticks.

Good Luck!

 

[GeoSoul]

More than likely Shirley is a one and done poster. She (he) hasn't bothered to come back.

My dad used to call them "bad actors."

 

[jcentinc]

Wow, a clogged up catalytic converter, it used to be common in the early 80's...but i haven't seen that in a long while. If it's still doing the same thing with a new one, there must be something else causing the problem.

If it really is another converter then have a leak down test on your injectors. Also, watch your oil level. If burning a lot of oil that can plug it up also. There vare a lot of things that can cause this.

 

[Rfloral]

If it really is another converter then have a leak down test on your injectors. Also, watch your oil level. If burning a lot of oil that can plug it up also. There vare a lot of things that can cause this.

what is a lot of oil? I think it uses 2 quarts every 5k miles

 

[Rfloral]

I have a 2013 1.8 that lost most of its power, No codes( at least light on dash never came on but does work) It would hardly go 20 mph. I drove it 2 miles home slowly and going up short hill (25% grade?) had to basically idle it up, move the peddle more than an quarter of an inch it would go BRRRRRR. I thought no fuel, sounded like fuel filter so I changed it . Had more power but still would not really go and got worse on my 2 mile test drive. Had it towed to dealer, after a week he finally got it and said its catalytic converter plugged up, melted and $1800... So I had it towed to my house and waiting for parts.. Today it drives fine.... drove 10 miles and no problem..... will a catalytic do that?

 

[jknudse]

Rfloral we had the same problem with my daugthers 2013 Soul 1.6 (Base) with no codes. Does not seem to use any oil. After idling to a shop they drove it the next day and it started working again. On my way home it had a 0420 code and had a shop that said if the catalytic converter was plugged you would know. Tried adding a Cataclean to a tank of gas. Now we are getting a O2 sensor code and had a second shop look again. Still seems to be running fine for over 1000 miles now. My daughter is bringing it back in next week to have that investigated the latest check engine light. Please provide any additional details.

 

[Robbieb]

This past late spring (2016) we started having issues with this car loosing power when accelerating. So bad it would only go about 25- 30 mph going up a hill. We had to get on the shoulder of the highway. Talk about stresssss.... We had the codes read.... changed all coil packs, & plugs. Seemed to get better for a while........ Then here we go again. So after three months of intermittent issues, we get it to code again take it to the dealer, they say catalytic converter, we are by this time 200 miles over the 80,000 mile warranty for the converter, which the dealer wants 1400. before labor......... other shops cannot yet get the factory replacement one ........ so we go to a muffler shop 450. they install a universal about 3 weeks ago. Today the temps are up outside and here we go again! That is the one common thread it runs ok when the temps are cool outside. This is just about beyond the insane point. Because I drive an hour to work this is not a working relationship with me and this car!
Has anyone experienced this issue and what it might be?

I've been having same problem with mine, I've replaced fuek filter, cool packs, spark plugs and wires, blower motor, was told it was catalyc converter but ive ordered cam shaft sensors first before trying converter. KIA sucks! The positive piece on my KIA forte battery fried while I was on the interstate just died, I was pregnant at time being with a child in the car at 8 pm the new K5 I have heard had major problems! But just a heads up try the can shaft sensors if you haven't if your having this problem my step dad says can make your car run poorly

 

[jknudse]

We ended up replacing our catalytic converter with an independent shop using a third party part for ~850 dollars. Now seems to run better with better pep. We did start getting a code different codes about the convertor after being stalled that one time but drove to many thousand miles with the codes hoping we did not do any damage. There is a new PI Performace Improvement that can be applied to your engine software that you might want to consider to avoid a fire. They are not real sure if the catalytic converter starts to fail which then causes the engine failure or the other way around. Hoping the new convertor is what the doctor ordered.

 

[Robbieb]

We ended up replacing our catalytic converter with an independent shop using a third party part for ~850 dollars. Now seems to run better with better pep. We did start getting a code different codes about the convertor after being stalled that one time but drove to many thousand miles with the codes hoping we did not do any damage. There is a new PI Performace Improvement that can be applied to your engine software that you might want to consider to avoid a fire. They are not real sure if the catalytic converter starts to fail which then causes the engine failure or the other way around. Hoping the new convertor is what the doctor ordered.

I have never got codes for catalyc converter it was always p0300 or basically a cylinder misfire is all I read but first was cylinder 1 and 3 replaced coil packs and said cylinder 4. Took it to auto zone to see what their code reader read that's when I got the can shaft sensor code but my check engine light goes back off after a while its still running the same though. I've been letting it sit the longer it runs the slower it gets

 

[Marys2015Kia]

This past late spring (2016) we started having issues with this car loosing power when accelerating. So bad it would only go about 25- 30 mph going up a hill. We had to get on the shoulder of the highway. Talk about stresssss.... We had the codes read.... changed all coil packs, & plugs. Seemed to get better for a while........ Then here we go again. So after three months of intermittent issues, we get it to code again take it to the dealer, they say catalytic converter, we are by this time 200 miles over the 80,000 mile warranty for the converter, which the dealer wants 1400. before labor......... other shops cannot yet get the factory replacement one ........ so we go to a muffler shop 450. they install a universal about 3 weeks ago. Today the temps are up outside and here we go again! That is the one common thread it runs ok when the temps are cool outside. This is just about beyond the insane point. Because I drive an hour to work this is not a working relationship with me and this car!
Has anyone experienced this issue and what it might be?

Your story is very similar to mine. I’ve had the cat converter replaced twice in the past year and a half under warranty. I told them I need the source fixed. Not just the end result. Ugh. What started all of this was my car had no power. My oil was dry after about 900 miles. I finally stalled on the freeway and my family and I could’ve been killed! Kia did the 1,000 mile oil test. I’m taking it in on Monday since I’m at 850 miles. They told me that more than likely they will be replacing the engine. But I’ll know for sure next Tuesday. I’ll come back and give an update! Best of luck to everyone!

 

[Robbieb]

This past late spring (2016) we started having issues with this car loosing power when accelerating. So bad it would only go about 25- 30 mph going up a hill. We had to get on the shoulder of the highway. Talk about stresssss.... We had the codes read.... changed all coil packs, & plugs. Seemed to get better for a while........ Then here we go again. So after three months of intermittent issues, we get it to code again take it to the dealer, they say catalytic converter, we are by this time 200 miles over the 80,000 mile warranty for the converter, which the dealer wants 1400. before labor......... other shops cannot yet get the factory replacement one ........ so we go to a muffler shop 450. they install a universal about 3 weeks ago. Today the temps are up outside and here we go again! That is the one common thread it runs ok when the temps are cool outside. This is just about beyond the insane point. Because I drive an hour to work this is not a working relationship with me and this car!
Has anyone experienced this issue and what it might be?

I just got a complete answer to your problem the intake manifold is cracked or something to do with it, your problem is it is sucking air from somewhere. I don't have a manifold converter just muffler converter i had it taken off and cleaned it does not bog when accelerating when hot outside anymore but I am getting codes of misfire cylinder 1,2,3 which means its sucking air BC coil packs are new putting new spark plugs in now and just had oil change. Basically I've read these motors are bound to fail anyway. Its best to trade in or sell honestly

 

[Ruby Pearl]

This past late spring (2016) we started having issues with this car loosing power when accelerating. So bad it would only go about 25- 30 mph going up a hill. We had to get on the shoulder of the highway. Talk about stresssss.... We had the codes read.... changed all coil packs, & plugs. Seemed to get better for a while........ Then here we go again. So after three months of intermittent issues, we get it to code again take it to the dealer, they say catalytic converter, we are by this time 200 miles over the 80,000 mile warranty for the converter, which the dealer wants 1400. before labor......... other shops cannot yet get the factory replacement one ........ so we go to a muffler shop 450. they install a universal about 3 weeks ago. Today the temps are up outside and here we go again! That is the one common thread it runs ok when the temps are cool outside. This is just about beyond the insane point. Because I drive an hour to work this is not a working relationship with me and this car!
Has anyone experienced this issue and what it might be?

Crankshaft position sensor. My 2012 Soul had this issue.