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Hey Guys,

I have a 2011 Kia Soul Base 1.6L Manual Transmission, it has around 100,000 miles.
In the morning before going to work sometimes I start my car 10-20mins before leaving to work and leave it warming up in the driveway. About a month ago, I left it idling in the driveway came back around 10mins later and the car was dead, tried starting it up again and it would crank but the engine would not start. After about 15-20mins of waiting I was able to start the car up again. This problem has been occurring to me on and off for a month, it has never happened while I was driving its either in the morning if I leave it running for a bit or after a short trip if I try to start it up again. Problem is it doesn't always happen. I took it to the dealer and they thought it was a grounding issue with the battery they fixed that and same thing. I replaced all my spark plugs this past weekend and it still keeps happening. P.S. battery and started are fairly new and car always cranks (but doesn't always start).

Also I live in NJ where I cant pump my own gas every time I go to the gas station the attendants have a habit of "topping" off my fuel tank with extra gas so the total I own them is a round dollar number. Might it have something to do with over filling the tank? Although my problem happens whether I filled up or not

Any ideas as to what it might be?

Thanks
 

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Canister swamping due to overfilling would usually throw an EVAP code. A problem in the EVAP purge system might cause stalling at idle, but again it should throw a code. (A problem in the EVAP vent system, on the other hand, usually doesn't affect how the car actually runs.) But again, it usually throws a code.

But it's still bad practice to top off. You may want to buy refillable gift cards for gas so the attendants don't have to make change, and then threaten them with severe bodily harm if they top off. I actually stand right next to them when I fuel up in Jersey to make sure that they they don't top off because it's such a habit for most of them.

Other possible causes would include low fuel pressure (clogged filter or failing pump), dirty or failing injectors, excess carbon in the intake system, clogged or failed EGR valve, clogged cat, failed O2 sensor, failing ETCS, faulty TPS or ICV, leaky intake gasket... There are many, many possibilities. It could also simply be a bad tank of gas or a dirty connector to one of the bazillion sensors that feed the ECM its data.

Unless you're really into this sort of thing, I suggest you look for a mechanic who specializes in diagnostics. You'll save money in the long run if you find a good one. The nearest one I know to you would be Giuseppe Mendola at Auto Tech Diagnostics in College Point, Queens. I'm sure there must be others close to you, but if you can't find one, it would be worth the trip (or maybe Giuseppe can recommend someone closer to you).

The problem is that whatever's causing your problem isn't throwing a code, which means that it's either below the threshold at which the ECM considers it to be malfunctioning or is something that wouldn't throw a code in any event.

Nowadays, there are very few problems a car can have that the ECM doesn't know about, but there are thresholds below which it doesn't cause a CEL and throw a code. Good diagnostic mechanics use scanners (not the same as readers) and their brains to monitor the values in real time and get some clues that help them diagnose the problem. Less-skilled mechanics just throw parts at the problem and hope they guessed right. That can get pretty expensive after a while.

If you want to try some more DIY stuff, put a can of Dri-Gas and a can of Techron in the gas and drive around for a while, then gas up at a busy TOP-tier gas station. Also clean out the EGR, the ICV, and the throttle body, and remove and clean with electrical contact cleaner the connections to every sensor that you can reach. Don't even worry about what they do. Just pull them, one at a time, clean them, and replace them. Those are easy, cheap things to try that may (or may not) clear up the problem.

Then get on the turnpike and drive the car hard, holding the transmission back so you rev at about 3,500 - 4,200 RPM for at least a few miles, with occasional bursts to about 5,000 RPM.

If you still have a problem after those simple, cheap things, then I think it's time to find a good diagnostician. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches and money in the long run.
 

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Thanks for the suggestions, I think i'll try some more of the DIY stuff and also look for a good diagnostician. And yeah I've never gotten any warning lights, a co-worker hooked up an odb port reader (not a scanner as you mentioned) and it had no messages.

About the Dri-Gas and Techron, doesn't the KIA manual say not to use fuel cleaners?
 

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Thanks for the suggestions, I think i'll try some more of the DIY stuff and also look for a good diagnostician. And yeah I've never gotten any warning lights, a co-worker hooked up an odb port reader (not a scanner as you mentioned) and it had no messages.

About the Dri-Gas and Techron, doesn't the KIA manual say not to use fuel cleaners?
No, they actually recommend Techron at oil change time if you don't use TOP-tier gas.

As for Dri-Gas, it's just isopropyl alcohol (methanol). It's not something you'd want to use on a regular basis, but occasional use in small quantities as a fuel dryer won't hurt anything. It has a much higher water-carrying capacity than ethanol, so it will sop up any water in the tank that might be part of the problem. A bit of water in the gas (or other stale-fuel problems, like phase separation) might indeed cause the problems you're experiencing, so it's worth a try. It could just be a bad tank of gas.

EDIT: If it is something along the lines of phase separation, there's nothing you can do to "freshen" the gas. You just have to either drain it or burn it, and then refill with good gas.
 

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I think an ignition part is going bad and that when the part gets hot it stops working until it cools off. I had a starter go bad and after driving to the store I would have to wait for it to cool and then it would start. It took me about 6 months to figure out the starter was bad, I was a parts changer for a while, no one could figure out the problem because it was so odd.
 

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One more for luck! but first welcome to the Soul forums.
The car will not start after cutting out on tick over will be due to flooding.
The Plugs need replacing every 50k miles
The engine breather and valves need checking and cleaning especially when car left ticking over.
You get a lot of condensate and oil forming gunge in breathing system, by using a 0W30 fully synthetic oil you will not get milky build up in breather.
Your throttle control valve may have got coked up so will need cleaning with carburettor cleaner spray, do not tamper several sprays onto valve with air pipe removed will allow it to function properly.

Jeff
 

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Also check your Crankshaft Position Sensor or just replace it they are not that much and easy to get to on the KIA.
While it usally throws a code it may just be starting to have issues.
 

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Hey Jeff I use fully synthetic Oil, GeekOnTheHill I haven’t done the Dri-Gas or Techron but probably will do it soon.
Thanks for all the suggestions.

An update, I finally got some error codes

P0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor - Abnormal
P0339 - Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Intermittent

I ordered the Crankshaft Position Sensor part and it came in, how ever I'm having trouble finding where it is located (2011 Kia Soul Manual 1.6L). Does anyone have a link to the service manual or picture of where it is located? Or reliable site where I can buy the service manual from?
 

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1. Engine Control Module (ECM)
2. Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAPS)
3. Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS)
4. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECTS)
5. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
6. Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS)
7. Camshaft Position Sensor (CMPS)
8. Knock Sensor (KS)
9. Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) [Bank 1/Sensor 1]
10. Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) [Bank 1/Sensor 2]
11. Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (FTPS)
12. Fuel Level Sensor (FLS)
13. A/C Pressure Transducer (APT)
14. Injector
15. Idle Speed Control Actuator (ISCA)
16. Purge Control Solenoid Valve (PCSV)
17. CVVT Oil Control Valve (OCV)
18. Canister Close Valve (CCV)
19. Ignition Coil
20. Main Relay
21. Fuel Pump Relay
22. Data Link Connector (DLC)
23. Multi-Purpose Check Connector

It will be located closer to the bottom end of the engine if I'm not mistaken.
 

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On March 6th I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor and since then I have not had any more problems!
The Sensor is near the oil filter. I was able to get under the car without jacks and replace it but it is in a rough spot. Thanks to everyone in the thread for suggestions and ajay for the diagrams.
 
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