Anyone use Hawk brake pads?

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Thread: Anyone use Hawk brake pads?

  1. #1
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    Anyone use Hawk brake pads?

    Time to change out the pads/rotors and shoes.

    The R1concepts ceramic pads I have on are O.K. I tend to go ceramic so I dont have clean the wheels all the time.
    Ive been looking around and see alot of talk about Hawk brake pads being good. How they stop you better etc.. They cost alot more than other pads, but if they work better its worth the price.

    Has anyone ran Hawk or other premium pad like EBC or Akebono premium
    Last edited by johnyj; 06-05-2019 at 12:35 PM.

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  3. #2
    Senior Soul FLHamster's Avatar
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    NO on Hawk, but I did change my front brake pads with "Wagner Ceramics" that I bought ON SALE at Rock Auto. I changed them at about 60k miles on the odometer, and I was pleasingly surprised that the new pads increased my stopping power by almost 100%. It was astounding!
    I did the replacement myself and it was easy peasy. No stress, , , no strain.

    Good luck mate!

    Now driving 2020, LX, 2.0L AT (IVT), Pearl White

  4. #3
    Elder Soul The Sradiator's Avatar
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    I too am using those Wagner ceramics with good results.
    While I don't feel they improved braking 100% or 50% or even 25% for that matter they do work well, are fairly quiet and emit minimal brake dust.
    I've had a set of PowerStop rotors & pads in the wings for years now.
    So far, at 77k, a simple pad change has been all that is required.
    Are We Not Men?

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  6. #4
    Junior Soul HomerJay's Avatar
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    I used the Wagner ceramics and I thought I did something wrong because they stop so well. It is night and day compared to the original pads. I did have a problem with the included hardware not fitting into the brake correctly, so I had to use the old clips.

  7. #5
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    FLHamster is always enthusiastic about his choices

    Now, i have used Wagner ThermoQuiet Ceramics too on my cars and they are indeed good and relatively low on dust. But lately they started to make two types of "ceramics".
    One is good old style (PD) and one more "budget" (ZD). I would not try to save money here.
    They also have an "improved" OEx model, but I didn't see that in stores around.

    On my Mercury Sable daily driver, in a lot of stop-and-go traffic, I went with Brembo pads on front.
    Weirdly, for the Soul, they have available only the rear pads! And both front and rear discs!

    Akebono are very good too, but note that they have two tiers too. ProAct and Performance.
    Last edited by SoNic67; 06-06-2019 at 07:12 PM.
    So it goes...

  8. #6
    Elder Soul The Sradiator's Avatar
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    The soul is relatively light compared to planet Mercury.
    I've always been a Ferodo/EBC guy for my bikes and a Bendix guy for the cars.
    Brake technology evolves much faster than most owners do so in reality most brand names will suffice for the daily driver.
    If you are a late braker like myself then perhaps you appreciate a step up in quality but in the end I think most pads will get the job done for the average driver.
    Should the 2012 not sell before it's next brake job, I think I'll give these power-stops a try.
    Anyone have any 1st hand experience using them?
    Did they improve braking by a Bizillion, I wonder?
    Last edited by The Sradiator; 06-06-2019 at 08:22 PM.
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  9. #7
    Junior Soul
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    Over the years I've done the Powerstops, EBC, Brembo and found the gains limited. Most require more effort than OEM at lower speeds, noisy when cold. Increased stopping power was marginal at higher speeds. They will wear the rotors rapidly with a better chance of warpage. Brake noise alone is a no go for me. As far as both of my Soul's I'm completely satisfied with brake performance. When the time comes, I will probably go with Centric or Wagner.

  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Sradiator View Post
    If you are a late braker like myself
    Well, yessir, that's the only way. Break hard before the turn, maintain speed in turn, hit the gas on exit to straighten it
    So fading resistance is also important. Those two edge letters (friction codes cold/hot) need to be FF for me.
    So it goes...

  11. #9
    Elder Soul The Sradiator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sonic67 View Post
    well, yessir, that's the only way. Break hard before the turn, maintain speed in turn, hit the gas on exit to straighten it
    So fading resistance is also important. Those two edge letters (friction codes cold/hot) need to be ff for me.
    h h...
    Are We Not Men?

  12. #10
    Elder Soul The Sradiator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoNic67 View Post
    Well, yessir, that's the only way. Break hard before the turn, maintain speed in turn, hit the gas on exit to straighten it
    So fading resistance is also important. Those two edge letters (friction codes cold/hot) need to be FF for me.
    Race pads are good for the race track but really not for the daily driver.
    Same with super sticky race rubber.
    You really never get them up to optimal temperature in street use.
    You wind up doing more harm than good.
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