Gasoline direct injection - Page 2

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Thread: Gasoline direct injection

  1. #11
    Intermediate Soul
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    I don't recall anyone here who personally knows they have experienced valve carbon buildup. A lot of speculation, a lot of talk about adding Techron, but nobody saying "it happened to me". And we do have a few high-milers here. This crowd wouldn't be shy about talking about it, if it had happened. So my conclusion is, if you use TT gas (as recommended) and maybe throw some Techron in occasionally (like at oil change), it's probably not a problem.

    There are a few other issues, like sloppy mechanic work on the fuel system (up to 2000 PSI) can maybe set your car on fire, but carbon doesn't seem to be an issue. (Now if it turns out that the recent programming recall changes that, I'll have to eat my words.)
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  3. #12
    Elder Soul jdmartin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dynamo View Post
    I don't recall anyone here who personally knows they have experienced valve carbon buildup. A lot of speculation, a lot of talk about adding Techron, but nobody saying "it happened to me". And we do have a few high-milers here. This crowd wouldn't be shy about talking about it, if it had happened. So my conclusion is, if you use TT gas (as recommended) and maybe throw some Techron in occasionally (like at oil change), it's probably not a problem.

    There are a few other issues, like sloppy mechanic work on the fuel system (up to 2000 PSI) can maybe set your car on fire, but carbon doesn't seem to be an issue. (Now if it turns out that the recent programming recall changes that, I'll have to eat my words.)
    Next time I change my plugs - if I still have this car - I'm going to scope the chamber and see what things look like. I won't be able to see the valve seats but I will look at the faces and see if/how much build up there is. I'm guessing I'll change these plugs around 50k miles so that would put me at about 180k+/- and that should be a pretty good indicator, especially since the overwhelming majority of my miles are long distance interstate.

  4. #13
    Junior Soul KaptainRandom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdmartin View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by dynamo View Post
    I don't recall anyone here who personally knows they have experienced valve carbon buildup. A lot of speculation, a lot of talk about adding Techron, but nobody saying "it happened to me". And we do have a few high-milers here. This crowd wouldn't be shy about talking about it, if it had happened. So my conclusion is, if you use TT gas (as recommended) and maybe throw some Techron in occasionally (like at oil change), it's probably not a problem.

    There are a few other issues, like sloppy mechanic work on the fuel system (up to 2000 PSI) can maybe set your car on fire, but carbon doesn't seem to be an issue. (Now if it turns out that the recent programming recall changes that, I'll have to eat my words.)
    Next time I change my plugs - if I still have this car - I'm going to scope the chamber and see what things look like. I won't be able to see the valve seats but I will look at the faces and see if/how much build up there is. I'm guessing I'll change these plugs around 50k miles so that would put me at about 180k+/- and that should be a pretty good indicator, especially since the overwhelming majority of my miles are long distance interstate.
    The concern at issue is pre-chamber intake side valve buildup (pre-fuel/cleaner injection)
    Not build up inside the combustion chamber.
    You would need to scope the valve seats and intake side of valves.

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  6. #14
    Newbie
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    Carbon build-up is inevitable in GDI engines just due to the design. I ran the CRC product through my Soul at 55,000 miles. Seemed to make it idle a bit smoother, but no major change.

  7. #15
    Senior Soul tampa8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MLowe05 View Post
    Carbon build-up is inevitable in GDI engines just due to the design. I ran the CRC product through my Soul at 55,000 miles. Seemed to make it idle a bit smoother, but no major change.
    I did also with less mileage. Using exactly as directed, when I restarted the car and blew everything out there was chunks of black and alot of soot at first. You could hear it clanking as it went out the exhaust. So it seemed to do something. As I reported back when I did it, I also noted the wheels chirpted just a little afterwards the next day when I took off suggesting perhaps a little more power. I have no visual proof of what it was like before or after.

    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...319/11019388-P
    Last edited by tampa8; 06-22-2019 at 11:30 PM.

  8. #16
    Intermediate Soul
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    It makes me wonder how diesel engines survived all these years.
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  9. #17
    Intermediate Soul SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    It is prudent to properly service a GDI motor:

    1. Use Top Tier fuel whenever practical.

    2. Use synthetic oil.

    3. Use 5W30 or 10W30 in warmer climates to reduce oil consumption/contamination. I use Total Quartz 9000 Future, as it is the only synthetic at the local KIA dealer.

    4. Change the oil more often than recommended by the owner's manual. Long service intervals may be a selling feature/perceived selling feature, but flushing suspended contaminants is cheap insurance. My first oil change was just under 3,000 miles and expect 5,000 intervals thereafter, factoring time, color and level.

    5. Open it up on a regular basis. After FULLY warmed up, go to ~5,000 RPMs in second and third getting on a freeway.

    6. Drive after starting. Avoid prolonged cold idle, unless needed to defrost windshield.

    7. Change the PCV at ~50,000 miles
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  10. #18
    Elder Soul GeoSoul's Avatar
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    I agree with everything Sportster except No 6, I'm not completely sure of.

    I was watching a video of a mechanic who tore down his Hyundai GDI engine that seized. He was convinced his habit of getting in a cold car, starting and taking off LED to early metal shavings and eventually freezing up. He said from now one he'll warm up a couple minutes before driving.

    I've heard that oil isn't fully flowing when people turn the key and just hit that gas pedal. One mechanic said it takes about the time, as fast as you can sing " happy birthday to me " before you should accelerate, especially if the car has sat more than an hour.

    I've worked with a lot of machinery that use oil and grease. When they are cold, the properties are far from adequate to push them compared to when they reach full viscosity. They don't even sound the same when first running them in the morning. On cold mornings, we always expect problems.

    I know it's not in vogue to warm your car up a little these days, but thank you for the opportunity to express my experiences.

    All the best.
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  11. #19
    Intermediate Soul SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeoSoul View Post
    I agree with everything Sportster except No 6, I'm not completely sure of.
    Valid concern and I should have expanded #6:

    I start in a garage, apply clutch enough to roll out of the garage, idle while door is closing, travel 500 feet in a 15 MPH zone in a gated community, stop at gate, wait for it it open, go forward to stop sign at the collector street then drive easy in a 35 MPH zone for some distance with little throttle.

    If I am getting on the beltway, even though temp gauge may show full operating temp, the block is not heat saturated and that would NOT be one of the times I do 5K RPM in 2nd and 3rd getting on the beltway.

    Such driving will reduce rich idling.
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  12. #20
    Elder Soul GeoSoul's Avatar
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    That makes great sense Sportster. Plus that was the term I was trying to think of "heat saturated." Thank you for that.

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